October brings the start of winter which for us means travel time…….yay!

Our first trip of the season was to Portugal. Starting with a few days in Lisbon before taking a train to Porto to then board a Douro River cruise.
Lisbon was a port stop on the cruise last year and we decided that it was worth an extra few days to see the attractions that we missed. Our accommodation was interesting. Neil booked it well in advance as it was a short walk from the metro & train station which we would use on arrival from the airport and departure by train to Porto. A few weeks before we were to travel, we began to have doubts, so Neil had another look at our options. It turned out that we had booked an absolute bargain with many of the other options 50% more expensive and not in such a good location. ‘How bad can it be?’ we asked, and of course, Neil said ‘It’ll be fine’.
It was indeed a short walk from the station, but no one mentioned it was an incredibly steep climb up a very narrow cobbled street. Our accommodation was in an apartment on the third floor which had been split up into several rooms and a communal kitchen where breakfast was served and guests could make tea & coffee 24/7. The entrance to the building was sketchy to say the least, and the room needed some TLC, like the entire set up, but it was clean, and the enormous bed was comfortable. The room came with a Juliet balcony and the fabulous views across the river made up for any shortcomings. It was a 20 minute walk to Tram 28, less than 10 minutes to the station and a 15 minute walk to our day two sightseeing, Sao Jorge Castle. Fine indeed!

The famous Tram 28 winds its way through the streets of Lisbon allowing us to take in some of the sights. It runs from Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique covering around 7kms. It takes anything from 40 minutes to over an hour depending on traffic and vehicles blocking the lines whilst making deliveries. Queues to get on Tram 28 can be huge so we got there first thing in the morning.




At the end, Campo Ourique, we discovered a huge cemetery housing hundreds of family tombs housing coffins. There were amazing views down to the river from 3 sides of the cemetery. You could see into many of them and there were up to 8 coffins stacked on shelves and most of them over 100 years old. However, there was a recent one which was dedicated to a very beautiful young lady who clearly died way before her time. It might sound morbid, but we wandered around for close to an hour just enjoying the quiet and the trees plus discussing the many unanswered questions that each tomb raised. We spent the rest of the day utilising our 7 Euro ticket that allowed us to travel on buses and trams for the entire day. It was great value as we were able to see so many things.



The hill on which São Jorge Castle stands has been occupied since at least the 8th Century BC, with the earliest fortifications dating back to the 2nd century BC. Highly strategic, the location was used by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans and Moors. It was a great day, the weather perfect and we spent a lot of time trying to be creative with our photos.









Lisbon, like all capital cities, has zillions of places to eat. On our first night we chose not to go too far away from our accommodation, and we discovered a really nice place with outside seating, cold beer, okay wine and good Portuguese food. It also had the most unusual happy hour with a cut price cocktail served up with a couple of free cod fishcakes. We ate there 3 nights and got to know the guys well and it had an added bonus – entertainment!

The city has many roads that have restricted access with a bollard in the middle of the road. Authorised users have an electronic pass which lowers the bollard, however we came to the conclusion that google maps didn’t know this based on the number of cars who arrived and had to reverse back. It was also unreliable and the first 2 nights we watched as workmen tried to carry out repairs while stopping every couple of minutes to let cars & buses through. Day 3 it was fixed – hurrah! But not for long. We didn’t see it happen but a BMW passed over it, possibly tailgating an authorised bus and then it must have popped up and damaged the underside. There was a significant amount of oil on the road and a very unhappy driver. It proved very slippery and dangerous on the cobbles to pedestrians and vehicles alike so eventually the fire brigade arrived to clean it up. Our last night in Lisbon was very entertaining watching the chaos unfold.
Our 3hr train journey to Porto was good and we are glad that we bought tickets in advance the day we arrived as it was absolutely packed. When we arrived in Porto we got into a taxi with a driver who didn’t speak English. Neil showed him the address of where we were to pick up the cruise, and he smiled, shrugged and generally looked perplexed. Anyway, we made it in time for a beer and a glass of wine with lunch…….yum!
We were cruising with Emerald. The ship was small with just over a hundred passengers which made it easy to get to know most of our fellow passengers. The cruise along The Douro was stunning with the scenery constantly changing. As usual we were subject to constant pressure to eat and drink! We had quizzes, we won one, went kayaking, a first for Cheryl, good shipmates mostly from the USA, along with a hint of healthy friction between certain Brit and American factions, not us!



On our first day of boarding we had free time to explore Porto. It has so many bridges including Ponte Luiz 1. It has two tiers, the lower tier for cars and pedestrians and an upper tier for trams and pedestrians – it is quite stunning. At the end of the cruise, on return to Porto, we had a guided tour of the city and free time which Cheryl used to go shopping – Neil went back to the boat for a beer!







On our first cruising day we travelled upstream and passed through the deepest lock in western Europe at 35m deep. We stood on the top deck and watched the Captain standing outside of the Bridge at a steering wheel at the edge of the deck so that he could peer over the side while he controlled the power. It was the same way that we would take a canal boat into a lock watching the gap albeit on a much, much bigger scale. All the cruise boats on the Douro are exactly the same size so that they fit perfectly into the locks with barely about 100mm of space on each side of the boat. It was quite a difficult task but the cruise line made it fun by playing the theme music from Mission Impossible as we slowly made it into the lock. He deservedly got a round of applause and from then on, we called him Ethan Hunt.






The day was spent enjoying the endless scenery of vineyards and olive groves until we reached Pinhao where we moored and had a stroll around the picturesque town.


Next day Cheryl took her first kayaking adventure. We did very well, didn’t capsize unlike some who went swimming, and enjoyed the exercise!


We had a guided tour and free time in the very pretty UNESCO town of Salamanca in Spain. The Tour included the usual visit to a market and into the Cathedral which was stunning. The most interesting aspect was on the outside. It was recently renovatied and at the entrance the stone carvings now include a modern day reference – see if you can spot it.



Before heading back to the boat, we all met at the Cathedral and were treated to a show from a Tuna Band. This is a Spanish thing that we had never heard of, but basically, they are students that perform like buskers to pay for their university course. It started in the 13th Century and the students still wear traditional dress of that time. Ours were medical students and even Neil, who doesn’t do culture, enjoyed it – they were excellent.

Of course, this is an inland cruise, so culture was heavy on the agenda and Pocinho brought us Castelo Rodrigo. Again, enjoyable culture in the picturesque village which also gave us port tasting, and bonus, more exercise!







Back on board for the afternoon we also had a demonstration by the bar staff, who incidentally were excellent, on cocktail making (and drinking), we then got to have a go plus port cocktail making.

In Regua, we were taken to the hometown of one our guides, Lamego, which has a fabulous church accessed by a huge flight of steps. The bus dropped us at the top by the church but being exercise freaks we walked down the 686 steps, back up and back down again – people thought we were quite mad.

It was worth it to build up an appetite for the splendid lunch that we were to have Quinta da Pancheca, a vineyard where we were given plenty of port to drink with lunch.


This was our first European River Cruise and it was different to ocean cruising. We never cruised overnight but moored up late evening ready for excursions (all included) the following morning before returning to the boat for scenic cruising and activities in the afternoon. Food & drink were excellent as usual and these were served with different Portuguese wines each evening. We were offered local dishes alongside the usual international fare. Neil tried the octopus which he enjoyed but Cheryl did not like the texture of the little suckers. Staff were excellent and as it was a small boat we got to know them well.




There was an interesting incident. After dinner there was usually some low key entertainment laid on in the bar. One night it was a music quiz with extra points on offer for those teams who got up and danced appropriately. It was the usual stuff, Macarena, YMCA etc. Regular readers will know that we can get quite competitive and that night was no exception. It was all going well until they played ‘Let’s Twist Again’ We leapt up while fellow team members wrote down the tune plus artist and started twisting. Unfortunately as Cheryl was challenging Neil to twist lower and lower he over balanced backwards and his razor sharp glutes crashed into the glass sides of the bar – and let’s just say the bar came off worst – oops!



It was a great trip, enjoying some fine food and wine, great scenery and surprisingly interesting culture.



Cheryl spent a few days in London celebrating Alex’s 40th birthday while Neil stayed home to run the bar for the band, The Dub Pistols at The Gateway. We had never heard of them but listened to them on Spotify. They sounded good on the radio and even better live. It was a great show with the singer even crowd surfing – absolutely mad! There were masses of people dancing on the stage with the band and for the first time ever we emptied 2 kegs of lager, and on top, all the cans of lager got drunk as well. We’ll be having them back next year!
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