Take a walk on the wild side

How do you to mark a major milestone in life?  Yes, the old girl was about to hit the onset of her sunset years as she reached the ripe old age of 60.  This would have gained her official OAP status in the good old days, however both Tories and Sir Keir have agreed she needs to grow up a bit more before she gets that honoured status.  But hell, who needs to grow up?  She’s perfectly happy to continue to act her shoe size, and Neil wouldn’t have it any other way.

Mmmmmm, we haven’t been to South America, and I really want to visit Ecuador and Peru.  Cheryl’s bucket list ‘ticks’ number one and two  The Galapagos Islands followed by  Machu Picchu.  Regular readers will know that this year’s theme is ‘Just Do It’ and if you are going to do it, then do it in style and that’s exactly what we planned for this special trip.

Trains, planes & automobiles

The Journey logistics weren’t great as there aren’t any direct flights to Quito. We had to go via Madrid or Schipol but each one required setting off at silly o’clock to get the flight done in one go. As we are lucky to have the time we decided to take it slowly with an overnight stay near Heathrow then fly to Madrid for another overnight before the long haul to Quito.  We were also aware that we may take time to adjust to the high altitude and we allowed a few days to relax and acclimatise before we joined our tour group.

Day one – taxi to Axminster station, train to Feltham, overnight at The Travelodge in Feltham with beers and food in the nearby Spoons.  OK, the start of the trip didn’t qualify as doing it in style, but it did come with the added entertainment of observing the clientele around us.  Day two – Full English Breakfast in the Spoons (surprisingly good) then bus to Heathrow T5 for our cattle class flight to Madrid.  Shuttle bus to a simple hotel near the airport, a brisk walk around the area and a really pleasant night in Lola Gastro Tapas Bar. Day three –  Shuttle back to airport before breakfast in the Iberia business lounge next morning.

We didn’t pay the extra to book seats in advance as it’s usually easy to sit together in business. On boarding we worked our usual charm to snag two seats side by side and were intrigued by strange goings on in the nearby pod.  The staff were clambering all over and under the seat and spent ages fishing underneath to retrieve an object that looked like a tin of Spam which had managed somehow to get wedged in.  The owner of said tin, now known as Mr Spam, looked like the kind of guy you wouldn’t mess with and spent most of the flight sending messages on his phone.  With an overactive mind and knowing that Ecuador has something of a reputation as a moderately lawless drug riddled country, Neil was convinced he was a Mr Big and was ordering a few executions and it was almost definitely something more interesting in that tin than the contents of a tasty fried fritter.   Intrigued, Cheryl couldn’t contain herself and as we were disembarking, plucked up the courage to ask what was in the tin.  Not spam but a tin of very good pate! …..well that’s what we thought he said and Neil wasn’t going to ask twice.

Regular readers know that our usual travel style is to make all our own arrangements and travel independently. However, we’ve been changing the mix and trying a few cruises and this time we also opted for an organised land tour especially as access to Machu Picchu has been limited since Covid times. This would also give us the opportunity to experience staying in some places we wouldn’t normally book, very swanky! We were a little concerned that we may not appreciate the regimentation involved and would we get along with our fellow travellers?

Despite arriving well before the tour started we did get the included transfer from the airport and were met in arrivals by the Celebrity Rep, Carla.  On the journey from the airport to the hotel she gave us a brief modern history of the 1999 financial woes of the country plus the eruption that took place.  Quito is surrounded by over a dozen active volcanoes which, thankfully, chose to behave while we were there.  From the airport to the city centre you climb over 400m via very steep and winding streets.  To avoid the rush hour traffic the small mini bus that we were in was weaving it’s way along narrow streets through hairpin bend after hairpin bend until something went ‘bang’ and we stopped half way round a corner.  Something had broken with a loud thud, possibly the prop shaft, which meant we weren’t going anywhere.  Just then a taxi just happened to pass by.  A local guy directed traffic around us and Carla whisked us into the cab and we left the unfortunate mini-bus driver to get a tow.  Everyone involved was incredibly polite and helpful so it was a great introduction to Ecuador.

We checked into a quirky B&B and it was only after taking our bags up the stairs did we feel the first effects of the altitude.………wow………how difficult was that?  We quickly discovered how thin the air was at 2850m so decided to take our time over things.  After a couple of days resting and exploring the local area we wheeled our bags to The Marriott for the official start of the tour. By the way, we even impressed ourselves by returning to our old travelling packing skills and had around 12kg each in the cases plus about 5KGs in carry on packs.  We got an early check in and had a huge room with a fabulous view of the volcano that erupted in 1999, Guagua Pichincha.

The following day we met our guides and were being divided into small groups and set off for sightseeing beginning with a viewpoint with a statue of The Virgin of Quito followed by a walking tour of the Old Quarter before lunch. 

The afternoon was spent at the Equator park. We couldn’t resist the cheesy photo opportunity to stand with a foot either side of the equator. Our local guide gave us a simple science lesson how the earth’s forces operate at the widest part of the planet.  This included a demonstration on which way the sink drains in each hemisphere, standing an egg on end and lots of other silly stuff.  It was great!

Dinner was at a lovely local restaurant with great food and getting to know our group. 

Galapagos Customs are very strict as the ecology of the Islands is paramount so we had been told to have our cases packed but unlocked and taken to a store room where they would be searched overnight for any organic matter before being loaded for our flight.

Next morning we traveled to the airport for the 2hr flight to The Galapagos Islands.  Excitement doesn’t really describe how we felt as we walked from the plane to the terminal – the wildlife frenzy began with land iguanas everywhere! 

The one hiccup in the logistics was the long wait for the local buses to deliver us to the very small dock where we then boarded the fleet of tenders from the boat which to us to the ship.  Wow, what a ship.  Celebrity Flora was specifically designed to be a luxury expedition vessel and she did not disappoint. 

Our cabin was spacious and had a quirky design they called an infinite verandah.  That meant that instead of a separate balcony, the whole window opened up to make the entire room feel open to the outside.  It’s a small vessel, 100 passengers max and just 92 on our cruise, so doesn’t have the multiple restaurants, nightclubs, pools etc of the mega ships but what it has is top notch and beautifully designed.

The upper deck was like an exclusive beach club with a small restaurant and bar where you could dine under the stars, a huge hot tub and a couple of glamping pods alongside designer loungers and sofas.   

The food was excellent, drinks were all included, the entertainment largely self-made and the bar well stocked.  We had a silent disco, karaoke, yes we did very bad karaoke, and generally made friends with the mostly American passengers.  We soon bonded with Catherine and Amy from Arizona, Monica from California and Dennis and Michael from New Jersey.

In Darwin’s Footsteps

Since studying evolution at school Cheryl has wanted to visit The Galapagos to see the wildlife and the islands did not disappoint.  The ship had it’s own team of naturalists who were incredibly knowledgeable and professional and really added to our understanding and enjoyment of the excursions. The wildlife was incredible.

Land and sea iguanas everywhere. More sea lions than you could possibly count.

Flamingos were enjoying the brackish lagoons just behind the beaches. There were birds everywhere including the very dramatic frigate birds. Penguins stood and stared from rocks. They were only there because they were brought by the Humboldt Current and evolved to become one of the smallest penguin species.

The geology was equally amazing with the islands all very different.  The beaches were different colours, red, black and white, and we walked across a black lava flow.

We climbed dormant volcanoes, and we snorkeled with beautiful fish, sharks and at one point a sea lion glided underneath Cheryl as she gained her confidence in the shallows.  We planted native trees and waited patiently for giant tortoises to cross roads. We had 7 days of stunning sightseeing, informative well qualified guides, never a dull moment, in fact, full on fun.

Stop it

Right, there is something we need to get off our chests and out of our systems.  Boobies! Yes BOOBIES lots and lots of Boobies tee hee hee.  Stop sniggering and get serious – these are not just any boobies, these are your Blue Footed Boobies and their feet are an incredible shade of blue.  Of course there are a whole load of boobie spin offs, more on those later – because, well, you would wouldn’t you?  There are also red footed Boobies but we didn’t get to see any of those.

Each day on the boat was full on as they wanted us to get as much out of the visit as possible so most days involved excursions morning and afternoon plus options for experienced snorkelers and kayakers with all equipment provided.  On our first day we had wetsuits fitted, given snorkel equipment, fins and storage bags and a special place to put these on the loading deck.  We had to use the ships tenders to access the islands and this meant a combination of wet landings onto beaches and dry landings onto rocks/steps and small dock areas.  It was an incredible mix of walks, hikes, climbs, wades, swims and snorkeling from both beaches and the tenders.

Now that’s an unexpected sight

Between the trips we loved just gazing at the glorious views which were of endless ocean or remote islands in the distance.  It was so calm and peaceful with not a soul in sight.  One morning we had just returned from a wet landing excursion which included beach snorkeling.  We completed the strict return to ship routine.  Wash off beach shoes in a tub, hiking shoes soles scrubbed, wetsuit off and rinsed in another tub, quick shower down, hang up wetsuits, hang up snorkel bag,  wash hands, check in and back to the cabin for a hot shower, wash out swim wear and dry off beach/scuba shoes.  It was a hot sunny day so we set to stacking our damp gear in front of the huge sun drenched window with the endless view of the empty ocean.

Suddenly there was a huge roar coming from below and we saw one of the ships tenders loaded with around a dozen snorkelers returning to the ship passing right below our window.  Ooops – Cheryl was in her undies but Neil wasn’t – so what would you do in this situation?  No prizes for guessing the correct answer – Cheryl fled and Neil posed in the window for them.  How embarrassing, Cheryl asked Neil if he recognised anyone in the tender and he seemed to think we were OK and that they couldn’t possibly have seen that much detail from that distance. ‘It’ll be fine’ he said confidently.

That evening, as usual we headed to the bar before dinner for cocktail of the day and the briefing on the next day’s excursions.  We were beckoned over by our usual group of friends.  Michael was excited and couldn’t contain himself as he was bursting to give us his news, ‘You two just won’t believe what happened to us as we came back from snorkeling, It was hilarious, there were these naked people on the top deck of the cabins standing right next to the window!  We could see straight in! Our guide was very quick to reassure us that it wasn’t that type of cruise ha ha ha …………….’  Oh no, thought Cheryl, he must have seen us and is just teasing now, so might as well admit it. ‘Ummmmmm, that was us’ we said solemnly looking very sheepish. 

That’s when he had an even bigger laugh as it turned out he had absolutely no idea it was us and couldn’t believe we had just given the game away.  He nearly exploded when Neil adopted the same pose, this time thankfully fully clothed, as total proof.  Both he and husband Dennis dined out on that story for the rest of the week, and he’s probably telling it now.  We did get kudos for admitting it was us and we learned the valuable lesson that the huge picture windows are not coated in privacy glass and just because it’s normally miles and miles of ocean out there don’t assume a boat load of people won’t come flying past at any moment!

I’m sixty and I know it

Whilst on board we celebrated Cheryl’s big birthday with a table full of friends with the staff singing Happy Birthday, and playing the guitar, followed by Cielito Lindo a Mexican folk song, with the catchy chorus of Ay Ay Ay Ay whilst everyone joined in and  waved their napkins around their heads.  What a way to celebrate being 60, sailing around The Galapagos eating delicious food and drinking fine wines!  Inevitably, there were a lot of birthdays on board so this became a nightly ritual, sometime multiple time a night but it was still great fun.

Friends in high places

Turned out our new best mates Michael & Dennis were in the Penthouse Suite and they invited us along to a pre-dinner cocktail party towards the end of the cruise.  It was beautiful and Cheryl was very tempted to pretend these photos were our cabin!  They were such fun to be with and included us when they had an invitation to visit the Bridge for a tour.  Cheryl was also gifted a massage in the Spa to celebrate her birthday present which was wonderful and very indulgent.

In Paddington’s footsteps.

We had attached a follow on trip to the end of our cruise which took us to Peru.  Of the 92 passengers on the cruise 20 people continued on the tour to Peru including the lovely Dennis and Michael.  It was sad to say goodbye to our other friends who were returning home.  It was an extremely long day as we had to disembark Flora early, fly back to Quito, transfer to day hotel near airport before a long wait at Quito airport before the international flight to Lima in Peru. 

On route to the airport one of the guides told us to empty the refillable water bottles we had been given as you couldn’t take water on an international flight.  ‘Empty your bottle’s he said several times.  The trouble was he had a heavy accent which made it sound like ‘empty your bowels’ and everyone just burst out laughing.

The tour was for 7 nights staying in some very, very expensive hotels whilst taking in guided tours of Lima, Machu Pichu, Cusco and lots of other Inca sightseeing. Arriving very late in Lima meant we missed the worst of the crazy traffic. Next day we had a short tour and lunch in a beautiful restaurant. Lima has a very quirky climate, it’s apparently always overcast skies through the whole of winter although it’s not cold. We were transitioning into summer so managed some blue sky in the afternoon.

Sacred Valley

Next morning another early start and we flew into Cuzco which at 3400m is even higher than Quito, so we were glad to be heading straight to The Sacred Valley, a mere 2800m where we stayed for a two nights at The Tambo del Inka hotel. The hotel had it’s own baby alpacas as well as a Spa with indoor/outdoor pool – and best of all we got some free time to enjoy it!

The Big One

Next day we set off early and took the incredibly scenic vistadome train towards Machu Picchu. Arriving at Aguas Calientes we took a short walk and finally a bus to the historic site entrance. The weather that day was damp but looked as if it was improving and the rain stopped as we finished lunch and headed in. It was truly awesome, and it’s the whole panorama which makes it so special. The clouds swirled round and around the peaks which tower above as Machu Picchu is at 2430m.

Unfortunately we were part way round when the rain bucketed down before we could get the rain jackets on and we were soaked. However without rain you don’t get a rainbow. The return to The Sacred Valley was an absolute treat. We had champagne and canapes in the Sanctuary Hotel at the site then boarded the luxury Hiram Bingham train and had a gourmet dinner on the way back.

The guide we had, Diego, was fantastic, full of useful information without being too intense and he had a great sense of humour.  We thought that The Galapagos was full on, but this was so intense getting on the minibus at 8am, morning tour, big lunches, afternoon tour, drinks and dinner. Talking of dinner, there was so much food on this tour, served up in so many interesting places including on a ranch with an accompanying horse riding display. We tried llama – not great, but didn’t get to try ‘Cuy’ aka Guinea Pig, which is a local delicacy.

The Incas abandoned Machu Picchu in the mid 1500s when the Spanish began to conquer the Inca Empire. The Incas built other settlements in The Sacred Valley and we visited a couple. Ollayantambo – with a perfectly placed temple to view the rising sun in the cleft on one side of a mountain on the Spring equinox and watch the sunset travel across until it hit another cleft on the Winter equinox. It’s the Southern hemisphere and the biggest Inca celebration was held on 24th June, when it was clear to see by the sunset that the days were getting longer and summer was on it’s way.

The building skills of the Incas could clearly be seen at Saqsaywaman. The Incas built stone roads at an 8 degree slope which enabled men to use ropes to drag huge boulders to the site. They then cut and stacked them with extreme precision.

We stayed in some amazing hotels, including a restored monastery in Cuzco.  This place was stunning with cloistered courtyards, and incredible public areas crammed with amazing architectural features and artifacts.  There were old and somewhat creepy religious paintings above the beds in the rooms. Dinner here was extra special in atmospheric cloisters with silver service from white gloved waiters and Opera singers serenading us from the old pulpit whilst we ate. 

On our return to Lima we had another fun trip to finish – a mixology class in a very trendy bar.

The trip was exhausting but absolutely amazing.  We have new friends and we have more stories to tell including about ‘whisky galore’.  On the Iberia flight out Neil couldn’t sleep so he just watched films and decided to have a whisky.  The steward said ‘is blue label Johnny Walker, OK?  ‘Fine’ said Neil having only heard of J W red and black label.  It wasn’t till he looked it up on’t t’internet that he realised it’s £160/bottle from Amazon.  Needless to say, we filled our boots on the flight home!

A Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all our readers

Back home and just enough time to put up the tree before a visit from Alex, Freddy and Luke and we all took a ride on The Polar Express. They also visited the new Jurassic Discovery Centre where the dinosaurs were also in festive mood.

Just before Christmas we drove to Bristol for some time with the family there.  Another great pre Christmas get together for Marlpit Lane Social Club, this year hosted by Maureen & Paul, and our silly secret Santa was a lot of fun. After such a full-on trip to South America, Cheryl having quite a bit of dental work and lots of other lunches and dinners we decided to have a nice quiet Christmas Day ‘home alone’ with a walk along the beach.

This post has been brought to you by the following sponsors and BTW, they are all cheapskates as we received nothing for all this valuable publicity!

Take a chance on me

Here’s the latest roundup of what we’ve been up to, and guess what? Yet another trip, which this time wasn’t one we had planned, but was an offer we couldn’t refuse. 

Andy, our cruise guru, messaged out to all his customers to say that he had booked a cruise for himself which he now couldn’t make due to a training course that his wife wanted to go on.  We saw the WhatsApp message and Neil said ‘that’s good value – is that for 1 or 2 people?’  It was for 2 so Neil said ‘just grab it’ as he rubbed his hands together.  It was never in the schedule but the opportunity to get some Autumn sun and visit Lisbon & Valencia amongst other places we had never been was just too big an opportunity to miss.

There were just a couple of negatives but we went for it anyway.  It was P&O, which we had previously decided not to use again, and it was a huge ship, The Iona, which holds 5200 people.  On the plus side it was from Southampton and it was a new ship.  It was also October so probably wouldn’t be full, and at two weeks long, unlikely to be packed with kids. We cruised at the same time last year and it really felt like the summer had been extended so with the disappointing weather this summer who wouldn’t want some last minute sunshine?

Boarding was swift and our cabin décor was fresh and modern and we were on Deck 15 so certain to get plenty of exercise using the stairs!  We explored the ship and really liked the enclosed dome area on the upper decks where some circus style entertainment would take place over the pool area on some evenings, and the large and airy atrium and generally the fact that everything looked shiny and new. 

The weather was a little grey as set sail later that afternoon.  There was an announcement from El Capitano to say that storm Kirk was on it’s way and that he intended to miss our first port of call, La Coruna, and just head south at great speed to avoid the storm.  That meant an extra sea day but at least it was smooth sailing.   It wasn’t the weather for the sun worshippers to toast themselves so the public areas were packed – and that’s when we realised there were a lot of school age kids on board as well.  Scotland have different school hols, they had two weeks and the ship was at full capacity – ugh.  Another surprise was that on such a huge ship you had to use an app to book into the big shows in the theatre, the special shows in a really tiny venue, the main dining room and any speciality dining – and some people had done this before they boarded so most things were full up – more ugh.

Hey ho – as you know, regular readers, we are resourceful and soon discovered that we could rock up to the main restaurants (choice of 4) without a booking, agree to sharing a table and we were straight in.  Same with shows – hover outside and ten minutes before the start if there were seats, and there always were, we could get in.  We found some quieter spots, got chatty with the bar staff enjoyed the excellent wines in The Glasshouse and generally settled in despite the chaos and noise all around.

Our first port of call was Vigo in Spain – not a hugely exciting place but we enjoyed a stroll around the town.

Another sea day – with not a lot to do and then to Lisbon in Portugal where the ship stayed two days. We really enjoyed Lisbon, and have decided to go back there, probably next year.

We tried to get on the historical tram 28 but the queue was huge so wandered around and eventually stumbled upon a strange doorway with a small queue inside – a near vertical tram and we took a ride.

We arrived in the early hours so didn’t realise what a scenic ride the sail away from Lisbon was going to be. It was really picturesque as we left the cruise dock and headed towards the sea taking in the amazing views of the town. We got to an enormous bridge but as we got closer it was apparent there wasn’t going to be much room left as we passed

Hola Amigos

The weather wasn’t kind as we left which was a pity but as we sailed into the Mediterranean it warmed up.  Our next port of call was Valencia.  We had previously arranged to meet old friends Clive and Karen who live about 2hrs away.  We had an excellent lunch, a drink or two, and lots of laughs.  Clive reminded Neil that they have been friends now for over sixty years, and they are still as daft as the day they met!  Great to see them and now we’re looking forward to visiting them again in  2025.  Valencia, by the way, was lovely and we’ll be back there next year as we fly there for a few nights before meeting up with C&K.

Next stop was Barcelona where we last visited more than 20 years ago.  The Gaudi Cathedral is still ongoing and probably will still be ongoing in another 20 years.  It is one of the weirdest things we have seen and we were keen to find so were some of the other Gaudi buildings.  Cheryl plotted a route back to the ship via a number of buildings that were Gaudi inspired.  Whatever he was smoking we’d like some!

There was one major surprise that we didn’t know about until we got on board.  Gary Barlow has been working with P&O cruises, particularly with creative input into some of the entertainment venues on the newer ships.  He was going to join the ship in Lisbon to put on a couple of shows, but entry was by ticket only and to get a ticket you needed to donate £10 to his two favourite children’s charities and you would be in a raffle.  Lucky is Neil’s middle name so of course we won tickets, and the charities got a huge £27,000.  Cheryl really enjoyed the music and the show but Neil, who is not a big fan of his music, had to admit that the show was superb.  How about that, Gary Barlow for a tenner a ticket!

Last stop was Cadiz which we visited last year.  A really pleasant town and we enjoyed a long walk following the old city walls and then exploring the charming old town.

A couple more sea days – again with miserable weather, and we were back in Southampton.  There were quite a few things we didn’t enjoy about the holiday, but there were many positives – Lisbon, Valencia with C&K, Barcelona, Gary Barlow, the excellent wines and Ryan North the  pianist in The Crow’s Nest who played some perfect late night cocktail music whilst we sipped all sorts! Another bonus was we decided to take the upgrade on the travel insurance to cover missed ports as it only cost £13 and got £300 back in our bank account on our return- woo hoo!

Mundane stuff took over on our return, flu/covid jab for Neil plus typhoid and Hep A for both of us, dentist, garden, chimneys taking shape and so it goes on.  We did front of house at The Gateway, Bar work for the Riviera Dogs gig night, and we had the first Comedy Club night which was a great success.  The next one in 3 months is already nearly sold out.

Spot the difference? There’s definitely at least six for the eagle eyed, not including seasonal differences as the first picture was taken during the viewing in April 2019 and the second in November 2024

Celebrations

Cheryl spent a few days in London to celebrate Son Alex’s birthday and spend time with the boys.  Great day out at Kew Gardens, fabulous lunch on the Thames followed by using the really fast River Bus for the first time.  Cheryl and Alex also had an evening learning the basics of Thai cooking at Borough Kitchen – it was delicious.

While she was away, Neil decided to tackle the redecorating in the big bedrooms to cover up the water damage from the leaking chimneys.

Our regular lunch with Neil’s siblings and spouses, June, Roy, Bill and Sue took place at a new venue, The Village Inn at Liddington near Swindon.  It’s a pleasant enough venue, food was OK but the company was great.  Due to holiday schedules, and Christmas, it’s looking likely that April will be the next date.

You may remember that Neil managed to spin out his 70th birthday celebration for several months so he could fit in all his friends and family?  Not to be outdone, and as she has a special birthday coming up, Cheryl decided to start hers during her visit to London then continued with a special dinner with Marlpit Lane Social Club.  Chef Dariusz arrived to work his magic and produced a spectacular 3 course meal.  He left and we continued with a cheese course and more wine and chat with the party finally ending after midnight.

The big day is actually at the end of November and there is something really special planned.  You will have to wait for the next update to find out what it is!

Time to say goodbye

All good things must come to an end. Out with the old and in with the new.  This month we’ve been ditching some things which have outlived their useful lives.  And before you ask, no we haven’t broken up or bought another car!

What a pane in the glass

This summer has been pretty poor in terms of hot sunny days but we spotted an opportunity and invited Marlpit Lane Social Club aka the neighbours for a BBQ as they are always great fun with the usual banter, jokes and jibes plus good food. 

One renovation job we put off has been sorting out the windows at the front of the house.  They look grand but close up you can see how much they have deteriorated since they were installed in the 1990s. In addition they are a security hazard as they were glazed from the outside which was common practice back then. We even resorted to white tape on the inside of the large windows in the front bay in winter as the wind whistles in. 

Our plan was to get quotes before we left for Goa last Jan and then get them installed early in the Summer.  What we were blissfully unaware of was that all the local  companies have a 6 month waiting list from accepting their quote.  So  when the window company finally offered us a date we had to grab it. 

Unfortunately, it clashed with our BBQ but, as they say, ‘the show must go on’.  We were sat at our swanky new patio table with comfy reclining chairs (we only needed two more chairs but Neil’s into this spending regime and it was much better value to buy another whole set!!!) having drinks and chatting before the food.  Then the chat became raised voices and shouting as the window men used all sorts of power tools to remove the old windows and fit the new ones.  Fortunately, it didn’t last too long, but it did make us all laugh. 

Life in the slow lane

Cruising took on a different look mid-September. Last month we were on the 3000 passenger Regal Princess, this month we were on the 6 berth (as long as they are teeny tiny people) canal boat, Australian King. This was our second narrow boat trip of the year.  Once again we were with our friend Gail and her dog Oren.  She had always wanted to do The Caen Locks in Wiltshire so that was the plan.

Caen Hill (pronounced ‘cane’), is one of the longest continuous straight flight of locks in the country. A total of 29 locks with a rise of 237 feet over two miles with a 1-in-44 gradient.  It is a visually stunning flight. 

We left the marina and headed towards Bath and moored near Bradford on Avon for dinner.  It was a Sunday and, unfortunately, we found that many of the pubs were closed.  Cheryl asked a local guy if he knew of anywhere that might be open, and he pointed us to an Indian restaurant overlooking the River.  We were not disappointed; it was probably one of the best Indian meals we have had in the UK, even if we had to sit outside with the dog sheltering under an enormous parasol as the rain started.

Next day we cruised slowly reaching Bath at midday.  Cheryl decided to hit the shops to get some retail therapy and Neil and Gail took a walk around Bath.  We all met up for dinner later to have one of the pies at the famous Raven pub.  It didn’t disappoint, so much so, that we overheard a group of Americans who were on their third visit as they worked their way down the pie menu!

We turned the boat round and headed back towards Devizes and the locks mooring up at the bottom of the flight so we could take them on next day.  All the locks are double width so if you’re lucky you can buddy up with another boat to help reduce water usage and take the strain off winding the lock paddles.  We were not lucky!  On the plus side, we didn’t have any slower boats in front of us or many boats coming down.  However, Cheryl and Gail are lock experts and we flew up in less than three hours.

At the top of the locks is the market town of Devizes.  It has a large square in the centre with a market, lots of pubs and shops.  More retail therapy for Cheryl and Gail while Neil held onto Oren who attracted numerous ‘oooo, isn’t he lovely’ and ‘he’s being so well behaved’.  ‘Actually’, Neil said, ‘he’s not always good and doesn’t always do as he’s told’.  To be fair, he is still quite young, so we tried to cut him a bit of slack although he did have an uncanny knack of always being in the way in the boat.  We ate out two nights in Devizes, first at a very good but pricey pub and followed that with the complete contrast of a cheapie session in a Spoons on the second night.

That little ship has sailed

Over the next couple of days, we headed back to the marina to hand the boat back.  Overall, it was good to do Caen Locks, second time for us and first time for Gail.  We have done many, many canal trips over the years including our epic 3 week adventure when we crossed the Pennines.  It has been fun and we have a lot of happy memories of our times on the canal network but we have decided to call it a day.  It was with some nostalgic thoughts that we unloaded the boat, said ‘goodbye’ to Gail and headed home.

Up on the roof

We’ve been having a problem in our bedroom for some time now – no, not that, although it has produced a rather unsightly damp patch – eeeeeew!  We suspected that the chimneys weren’t completely watertight when we moved in and had them re pointed and coated with a special and very expensive waterproof coating.  It seemed to be fine so we carried on with the decorating.  Then there was a period of heavy rain and some stains began to appear in our guest bedroom where the ceiling met the outer wall.  B*gger! We’ve only just put the painting stuff away.

Our favourite singing builder, Stacy came back and re did the flashing around the base of both chimneys and we repainted again.  That’ll sort it.

The first clue that things still weren’t right was that every time we came back home after a few weeks away Cheryl noticed a strange smell as she went up the stairs towards the bedroom.  She put it down to the house not being properly ventilated when we were away, and it was an old building with a few quirks.

We went away for our Winter sun to Goa and on our return we were greeted with this

Yep we had a serious problem! Stacy was baffled and we even got Stuart the Sweep in so he could put his camera into the chimney and we stood and watched the camera screen which revealed lots of jagged bricks and slate plates within the chimney which we concluded must have been holding the moisture from heavy rainfalls, allowing the wet to seep into the inner walls.  Not a problem when the house was built as fires would have been lit throughout the winter keeping the chimneys dry.

The solution was not for the feint hearted – the problem was in both sides of the house so the chimneys would have to come down and be rebuilt to modern standards with special lead plates which allow rainwater to drain out if it gets in.  Not an easy job, and not cheap either.  On top of that Stacy and his family building firm are in demand so we had to wait a long time to get this sorted out.  All the time watching our unique piece of modern art on the wall get bigger and bigger.

It’s not just buses which arrive all together – tradesmen do the same thing so first we had Stacy ask if the scaffold could go up in the driveway while we were on our hols in August – yes please do!  However, that’s all that happened for a few weeks so we couldn’t get to the garage and then of course the window guys arrived and it was chaos with all their vans crammed into the driveway.

The work has now started and one old chimney has gone, and he’s rebuilt it  with two lead trays instead of the old slate one.  One down and one to go!  We are hoping that the scaffold blocking the drive can come down in a week or so.  Then it’s time for the scaffold to go up on the other side to do tackle the other one.

Walking on Sunshine

We also hosted a Couchsurfer, Rachel, for one night.  She wasn’t enjoying her job so decided to quit and walk from John O’Groats to Lands’ End for The Save the Children Fund.  She decided to do it the hard way by including the entire Southwest Coast Path.  We were happy to provide her with a hot meal and a bed for the night.  She was great company and told us all about her walk and she raised over £7000 so well-done Rachel.

Bottoms Up

We joined U3A a couple of years ago and are members of the wine appreciation society.  We have a lot of fun in our meetings and this year we had a trip out to our local winery, Lime Bay, based in Shute.  Our host Steve was extremely informative and entertaining and a very pleasant afternoon ensued as we sampled seven different wines followed by gin and mead. 

Cheers.

Please Drink Responsibly

Neil was restless. ‘We never go anywhere on my birthday, I know its school holidays and everything is busy and expensive and we usually have lots of visitors in the summer but this year it’s quiet.  Can you find anything?’

After a bit of searching a few options came up but anything in Europe involved expensive flights with lousy flight times which meant staying overnight at airports or travelling at silly times.  Eventually Cheryl found something different which she thought might interest him.  No airports, no taxis, no trains, no travelling at the weekend and, interesting places to visit and by the way, it’s not a bad price.  She ran it by Neil and without too much thought, as he’s fully into the ‘just do it’ frame of mind, he said ‘yup, let’s do it’.

July and the start of August were meant to be relatively quiet.  However we had the excitement of the impulse buy of the car, birthdays for both grandsons, a neighbours get together, several live music events and bar work,  council duties including a councillor surgery and Seaton in Bloom judging.  We also had a surprise visit of Neil’s grandson, daughter in law and his daughter.  It turned out to be a really busy time so we were ready for that break.

The trip also provided the opportunity to take our first long drive together in Roxy. The drive was great, being a Wednesday morning the roads were fairly quiet, it was a little cool but the hood was down and the radio on.  We arrived in Southampton to board the Regal Princess to cruise around the UK & Ireland.  As it was Neil’s birthday we took the top level all-inclusive package so it was going to be indulgent!

We had ‘meet and greet parking’ another bonus.  Just drop off your luggage then hand over the keys, walk across the car park, board the ship, head to the bar for a beer, and then lunch with the odd glass of vino.  Then we found our cabin where are cases had been delivered, unpacked, met our cabin steward Mike,  and enjoyed the view from the balcony. 

Day 1 was a ‘sea’ day.  Today was going to be a challenge.  We had to get some exercise, and spent a while exploring the ship and working out where everything was.  It takes 3,500 passengers and has 19 decks so it took a while.  Princess is an American cruise line and the majority of passengers were American, followed by New Zealanders and Australians.  There were also some Spanish, Koreans and Brits and a surprising number of younger couples and families on board.

We discovered the ship was travelling at max capacity, however it never felt crowded and we could get our favourite seats in the bars and all the entertainment venues easily.  Our cabin was on deck 8 and we used the stairs so we quickly got our 10k steps in every day, and on port days we averaged 20k.

Our package included a maximum of 15 alcoholic drinks per day of premium wines and spirits, cocktails and beers.  Could we really do it justice?  We were determined and brave but we failed miserably.  ‘Close but no cigar’ was the result, well to be fair, we didn’t even get close.  Cheryl hit the cocktails, each one at least a double measure so 15 drinks would have been about an entire bottle, and Neil started on the wine, which would have been more than 3 bottles of wine.  He also enjoyed the premium spirits including 10 year old Talisker. Having given it a go, we vowed to never try it again and just enjoy the premium stuff.  Remember readers don’t follow our example and drink responsibly!

Day 2 was our first port day, Cobh, pronounced Cove, which is the main port for Cork in Ireland.  Being independent travellers we headed to the station opposite the cruise terminal and caught the train into town.  It was then about a 25 min walk to Cork Gaol.  It has a pretty horrid history and the tour we had told us some grim stories about the treatment of the inmates, most of whom stole in order to eat, some inmates as young as 7!  Then we walked into the centre to have a look around and some lunch and, as Cork is the home of Murphy’s and Beamish Stout, sample the local brew.  We chose Clancy’s Bar, shared an enormous sandwich.  The Murphy’s was delicious and smooth but the Beamish a distant second.  We managed a walk through The English Market, a lovely piece of architecture.

The highlight of the trip, and the quirkiest thing we have ever done involved The Shandon Bells in St Annes Church.  We arrived, paid our money and as it was quiet the friendly lady handed us our ear defenders and ushered us straight up the stairs.   The ship’s over the top Destination Expert Cathy had recommended this as you get the chance to ring the bells, but what she omitted to say was that there were a number of suggested songs. Cheryl was quick to take on the challenge of playing Elvis’s ‘Can’t Help Falling in Love’, using the easy to follow numbered music sheet.  Quite surreal, playing an Elvis song on church bells in Cork.  We then climbed the steep steps up to the bells, ear defenders on as you don’t know who is behind you and about to ring the bells, and then up to the top of the tower for fantastic views over the city.  On the way back down, as it was still quiet, Cheryl had to have another go.

One of the things we like about cruising is that on most days you travel overnight and arrive next morning with a different view from the balcony and a new place to explore, and day 3 brought us to Holyhead in Anglesey, North Wales.  We also had our first ride in a ship’s lifeboat as these are utilised as tenders to get passengers to the shore.  We’ve been to Anglesey before when travelling in the caravan so we just took the long walk along the coast path to the stunning Holyhead Breakwater to the Lighthouse.  It’s 1.7 miles long, the longest in Europe and it was built between 1846 and 1873.  Having stretched our legs, we wandered around the town before heading back to the ship for a well-earned drink before dinner.  It was gloriously sunny and we discovered the open air bar at the back of the ship and enjoyed the views of the breakwater as we set sail.

Day 4 took us to Belfast.  Cheryl had never visited The Giant’s Causeway but it was a long distance from the port and would have taken too long on public transport. A bit of internet searching and Neil discovered a Sixt hire car office in the cruise terminal.  We were swiftly off the ship and our car was sitting on the dock when we arrived.  It took us just over an hour to drive first to Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge which is on the way to the Causeway.  The first rope bridge was erected by salmon fishermen in 1755. Suspended almost 100ft above the Atlantic Ocean, the Rope Bridge crosses a 20-metre-wide chasm connecting to the rocky island of Carrick-a-Rede.  It was an exhilarating and wobbly walk across with the obvious photo opportunity.

Next stop was Giant’s Causeway.  Neil had been before, about 60 years ago, so it was just as interesting to him as it was for Cheryl.  We arrived just in time for a guided tour where we learnt about the geology and the folk lore of an Irish giant named Finn McCool.  Legend has it that he created a causeway to get across the Irish Sea to face his rival, the Scottish giant Benandonner. Following their fearsome meeting, Benandonner ripped up the causeway as he fled back to Scotland, leaving what you see here today.  Our guide made the 45 minutes tour very amusing and then he left us to explore the amazing rocks and take the long walk back over the cliffs.   The northern Irish coast of County Antrim is quite stunning so we had an absolutely fabulous day.  There was one added bonus, both the bridge and the causeway are controlled by The National Trust.  We are members so it was all free!  Our entire day out with lunch cost less than £100 compared with $250 per person for the official cruise ship tour!

Now, we were on a roll.  Port 1, Cork in Ireland, Port 2, Holyhead in Wales, Port 3, Belfast in Ireland.  Can you believe we visited 3 of the wetting places in the Isles and had warm sunny weather? – we just couldn’t believe our luck!

Day 5 took us to Glasgow, or Greenock to be precise.  Cheryl booked return tickets online with ScotRail for a total of £30 (using a two together railcard discount – rubs hands together….) and we took the train into Glasgow. After a short walk to change station we were on our second train to Falkirk.  Why Falkirk?  As you know, we have been canal boating for many years.  The world’s only rotating boat lift, The Falkirk Wheel, links the Forth & Clyde Canal to the Union Canal 35 metres above, allowing vessels to sail through the sky thanks to a unique fusion of art and engineering – and it’s all for the same power it would take to boil eight kettles.  We booked a cruise on a tourist boat to enjoy the experience of going up and down.  It’s now one of Scotland’s busiest tourist attractions with around 500,000 visitors each year traveling from all over the world.  It combines modern engineering and technology with ancient principles set out by Archimedes more than 2000 years ago.  It is quite amazing.

Day 6 was a sea day so we ordered room service breakfast and got up late.   You will be relieved to hear we didn’t use this sea day for another 15 drink challenge, we had learnt that lesson, but took the time to have relaxing meals and get to know the bar staff a little better.  Many of the passengers were American so the guys were constantly mixing cocktails and martinis.  Not once did we see them ‘consult the book’ for the recipe.  There were so many cocktails and martinis on the menu and they knew everyone by heart. 

Dinner in the main dining rooms was excellent and after a couple of nights we managed to charm our way into a regular booking for a table for two next to a window.  Our water, Sacay from the Philippines, was a delight as was wine waiter Kiran from Mumbai.  We had two speciality dining experiences included. The Crown Grill was ok but nothing special.  Sabatini’s, the Italian restaurant, was lovely but with several courses we were so full we shared the main course between us so that Cheryl could try the deserts.  On reflection we wouldn’t pay the extra for these as we were more than happy with the excellent food in the main dining room.  With the exception of a couple of meals the food was high quality, full of flavour and beautifully presented. We used the buffet a few times for a quick lunch and it too was surprisingly good.  There was a lot of choice of hot and cold options but bizarrely the same hot pud each time we went!

Day 7 brought us a first, The Orkney Isles. We were in the far north of Scotland and whilst it wasn’t hot it was very sunny. Our port was Kirkwall a level 30 minute walk from the jetty into town.  There was a free shuttle bus to town but we opted for the exercise. Apparently, just a few years ago Kirkwall was voted one of the best places to live in the UK and we could see why. The town itself is very pretty and the cathedral very popular with tourists.  There was an imaginative flower festival inside the cathedral on the theme of anniversaries. 

We had booked ourselves onto the tour of the local Gin Distillery.  The gin was named after the town’s old Nordic name Kirkjuvagr. Naturally, it included tasting, yum, and a brief history of this new venture and a tour.  It’s a very small business, only making a couple of batches a week.  Finally, back to the distillery bar for yet another free G&T, more yum.  We made it back to the ship in time to grab a glass of wine before heading to the restaurant for lunch.

Day 8 brought us to Edinburgh, docking in Queensferry about 30 mins from the city centre.  Here our weather luck ran out as it was grey, drizzly and horrid as you can see from the pictures. We have been to Edinburgh many times but it’s August, it’s Fringe time, so we decided to have a day out  This was another port where we were tendered in from the ship using a mixture of the lifeboats and some local ferries.  It turned out to be a spectacular ride as we sailed underneath The Forth Bridge, a truly spectacular piece of engineering which we could appreciate from a number of angles.

When you are by the sea everywhere is up.  The train station was no exception, after a few minutes’ walk it was a steep 136 steps up to the station.   ScotRail & Railcard meant we caught the train into the centre for less than £3 return each – bargain!

We both did a bit of shopping in Princes Street before the heavens really opened and we made a mad dash to The Standing Order, one of the several Wetherspoons for a beer and a sandwich (rubs hands together…). This one is set in a spectacular old bank, the others in Edinburgh are in the old Ticket Office at Waverley Station and an old Cinema.  Then we headed off towards the Royal Mile to find a venue to enjoy some humour.  We struck lucky, a small bar had a free one man show giving an non-stop hour of gags and stories.  The whole show did have a theme and the final gag brought it all together and ended in a very unusual finale.  Take a very close look at the pic – you probably won’t want to know how or why he got to look this way at the end!.

Day 9 was Neil’s Birthday and was a sea day. Cheryl used the sea days to go to Zumba whilst Neil went to the main theatre to listen to another talk about the two final ports that we were going to visit.  What we haven’t mentioned so far is that on boarding the ship we were each given a personalised medallion pendant.  This was our way to make purchases in the onboard shops, order drinks, get in and out of our room, get checked off and back on the ship, in fact, it did just about everything.  There are interactive screens all over the ship and Neil discovered, by accident, that if you stood next to one it recognised you by your pendant.  Suddenly, a celebratory picture appeared on the screen celebrating his birthday. 

Cheryl had decorated our cabin and door with bunting and signs and our cabin steward joined in by painting Happy Birthday Mr Neil onto the mirror.  It was a fab day and as it was the last full sea day it was the celebration dinner which included escargot bourgignon and Steak with lobster for the main course. 

Another aspect of the cruise we really enjoyed was meeting fellow guests and striking up conversations at nearby dinner tables, the bars and in the theatre. We had a lot of fun with the different nationalities teasing each other about our differences as well as the things we had in common.

There was a cooking demonstration by the Head Chef accompanied by the Head of Restaurant Services. They were a great double act with the chef quickly demonstrating four different dishes and the Head of Restaurants playing for laughs. This was followed by an opportunity to visit the galleys which we found fascinating. How they make so many meals in such a small space is astounding and the attention to detail in the plating up instructions was incredible.

Our package also gave us free downloads of any ‘official photographer’ pics plus a few printouts.  Most days we avoided the cheesy photo ops but we did get a few really good ones in between us being silly with the poses. 

What we haven’t mentioned up to now is the entertainment.  It actually started quite slow, even disappointing, but it soon picked up with some excellent comedians and some stunning stage shows.  The special effects were incredible, especially the roller coaster with virtual reality screen during the fairground based show.

Of course,  no cruise would be the same without a hypnotist. Cheryl tried to be hypnotised a few years back during the Edinburgh festival but was sent back to the audience as she clearly had not fallen under the influence.  This time we decided to both give it a go and when the audience were invited to take part we shot up onto the stage.  The hypnotist started his selection process to see who was susceptible and Neil was quickly asked to return to his seat.  This time, however,  Cheryl remained and like everyone else left on the stage, went under.  Neil took lots of pics but his phone is old so they aren’t very crisp but we think you can see how silly it got. 

We had a chat with the hypnotist later in the bar and he explained how people go into different levels of trance as Neil witnessed by the antics of a few of the volunteers who went very deep.  Cheryl went into a medium trance so wasn’t tasked with any of the really silly stuff.  According to the hypnotist if she tried it again she would probably go deeper – however she’s not sure she really wants to shout out that ‘The Martian’s have landed – evacuate the Theatre NOW’ or ‘has anyone seen my bottom? I can’t find it’ as two of the participants did.

Day 10 and we were in France, Le Havre.  It’s an opportunity for many passengers to go on tours to Paris and the Normandy beaches.  Having seen both, Neil suggested that we go to Honfleur, a pretty seaside town on the other side of the River Seine.  We walked to the train and bus stations only to find that it was going to prove impossible to be able to guarantee getting back to the ship before it sailed that evening.  If you go ashore alone, and not on an organised tour, and don’t make it back before the on board time, the ship will sail without you.  It does happen but we decided that as much as we like France getting  stranded there was not smart.   So we had a good look around the town and headed back to the ship for lunch.  

Day 11 and we were back in blighty, Falmouth.  Once again we were ferried to shore which was a superb way to arrive into the picturesque harbour.   We have been to Falmouth before, in fact we did consider this as a place for us to buy a house.  One thing we didn’t visit back then was Pendennis Castle, a short 15 mins walk uphill.  Built by Henry VIII around 1540 It’s one of England’s finest surviving coastal fortresses. Together with the fortress at St Mawes, Pendennis guarded the anchorage of Carrick Roads and the port towns below for over 400 years. The castle began as a gun fort in the mid-16th century. Bastioned defences were added in the 1590s following the threat of Spanish invasion and were periodically updated. Barracks were added when Falmouth was used as a military training base for World War I and more guns added for coastal defence for World War II.  It became a tourist attraction in the mid 1950’s.  Henry, probably one of your best investments!  We are also members of English Heritage so entrance was free, yay!

All good things must come to an end and on Day 12 we docked back in Southampton and walked off the ship to be handed the keys to Roxy and drive home. 

We weren’t sure about taking a cruise with an American cruise line but have to say that overall it we really enjoyed it. The crew were amazing, the food and drink superb, excellent entertainment and a fun vibe on board. It was incredible value for money given that everything we needed was included plus a few fun things we weren’t expecting.

We had great experiences on land, with visits to The Giant’s Causeway and The Falkirk Wheel, and getting as far as Orkney. Even though we had been to some of the places before we still found different and interesting things to do and see, and as we organised our own excursions it was all at minimal cost. Finally, as ‘lucky’ is Neil’s middle name, we had generally, quite amazing weather. 

What’s next?

Don’t Stop Me Now

“We need to talk” said Neil.  “I know we’ve been together for years and everything works, but…….I need more excitement.  I know I’m being a little reckless but you were the one who got me thinking with all of this we’re not getting any younger so we should just get on and do the things we’ve really wanted to do…………” 

 “So you’re saying it’s my fault??” said Cheryl.

He continued “I know that I’m getting everything I need, and there’s nothing actually wrong but I it’s more about what I want.  I’ve been thinking about this for a long time now and if I don’t do it now it will be too late. I feel really bad about saying goodbye but it has to be done.”

Decision made Neil looked online for his replacement and after weeks of searching she finally appeared, sleek and desirable, guaranteed to make heads turn.  He had to have her, and once the old one had gone, he knew he would have no regrets.

He talked it through with Cheryl and eventually she had to agree that it was the right thing to do.

So, out with the old, and in with the new.

From This

To This

Meet the very sexy, Miss Roxy Waters – ain’t she purdy?

French Connection

What new things did we ‘just do’ this time?  Whilst most of our time was spent doing the things we normally do or have done before – we did have some new and unusual experiences along the way. Read on to find out what happened on the canal boat, the 80th anniversary of D-Day commemorations, and how we partied hard with French farmers.

Mid-May was time for the canal boat trip with friend Gail and her dog Oren. This time to do The Stourport Ring which includes the famous Tardebigge lock flight.  It’s the longest in Britain with 30 locks spread over two-and-a-quarter miles and it enables boats to ascend or descend 67 metres. On a good day it takes just over 4hrs but if it’s busy or you are behind somebody slow it can take all day.  Fortunately, we had a good day and it was dry.   

However, the trip was not without the incident which we have managed to avoid in all our years of boating.  It was a drizzly, dank day and it was slippery underfoot.   We were just leaving a lock and Gail and Cheryl were making their way down the lock steps to board.  There was an enormous splash as Gail took off and ended up in the canal along with Oren!  It was something of a shock but as Neil pointed out it could have been a lot worse.  She could have landed on her back on the steps and done herself some serious damage.  At least the water was a soft landing although it was quite undignified.

The weather picked up and we were able to enjoy the rest of the trip without any further incidents.

In Seaton we’ve been volunteering in Tourist Information and at The Gateway.  We had tributes to Madness and Nina Simone both of which were excellent and allowed us have fun behind the bar.  It’s especially good when the theme is the 80th Anniversary of the D-Day Landings.  Many people dressed up and no surprises that we did our bit and ended up in the local newspaper. 

As part of the D-Day commemorations, the Royal British Legion held ceremonies at the town’s war memorial both in the morning and the evening which were well attended and moving.  Seaton currently has an unusual focal point on the seafront, a 50m high crane which has been installed to build the new apartments overlooking the beach.  The driver hung a Union Jack and played his bag pipes from the top of his perch in the crane.  The sound carried all across the town and seafront.  It was a beautiful way to commemorate those that sacrificed so much on June 6th 1944 and the following months until Europe was made safe once again.

Shortly after we headed off to Normandy, where it all happened on June 6th  1944, for our biannual twinning visit.  This time it proved impossible to find a coach company at a sensible cost so all participants travelled separately.  That gave us the opportunity to extend our trip to see a little bit of Brittany as well as Normandy.  The overnight ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo was a nice relaxed journey allowing us to have dinner before enjoying the cabaret, a good old fashioned clown, who had us both on stage to assist.  He was very funny and we got to bed much later than planned having consumed way too much wine.

We stayed in an apartment right in the centre of Dinan, a really picturesque town, for 3 nights.  The walls date back to the 14thC and it has a port on the river which is accessed down a stunning cobbled road.  Whilst the port is no longer a trading port it is now home to some very expensive boats that can access the sea by travelling down the river. 

Our journey through Brittany into Normandy was very pleasant, driving in France is a pleasure with very little traffic.  Despite visiting Thury Harcourt two years ago we hadn’t really explored the town so we arrived in time for lunch and spent the afternoon walking around the town and the river.  Normandy has always celebrated the D-Day landings and took hold of the 80th commemoration in a big, big way.  Virtually all the shops in every town had D-Day themed artwork in the  shop windows and street lights carried banners with the names and pictures of soldiers.  It was just amazing.

We met our twinning hosts for the weekend in the town and taken to their lovely old farmhouse in Saint Martin-de-Sallen which is a pretty and sleepy village 5km from Thury.  That evening we attended a reception in the Town Hall before arriving home late that night for Jean-Philippe to bring out his customary excellent bottles of red.

The next day we met up with everyone else and boarded a coach to a farm about a 30 minute drive away.  We were given a tour and an explanation on how they operate and how they intend to use their own milk to make a local cheese called Pont L’Eveque.  We were then treated to a cheese tasting before having our own picnic in the barn as there was a biting cold wind.  Of course, Chantal had brought a bottle of champagne as well as plenty of wine!

We then travelled to the nearby town of Fleur to visit the chateau and have a look around the town before returning home to freshen up for our customary group dinner in a restaurant.  The food was great and the entertainment on our table afterwards was just plain silly.  How many ways can you wear a napkin?  Then it was home for more red wine!

Next day was something of a surprise.  We were told by J-P and Chantal that we would be going for a walk in the morning and exploring the disused railway line which is now a leisure facility and then having lunch and a game of boule at a farm owned by one of their friends.  Well, the walk did happen and we saw people climbing, abseiling, zip lining, cycling and so the list goes on. 

Lunch however, was the surprise.    We arrived at the farm which was huge, with a beautiful old farmhouse and many barns including one with at least a £1m worth of tractors parked up.  We were ushered into a barn conversion at the back of the house which had a bar and a long table set for lunch for…………..32 people!  It looked absolutely fabulous.

We were introduced to the host, Gilbert and his son Gerard.  Not much English was spoken so we did our best with Franglais.  Then other farmers started to arrive with their families.  Traditionally, these farmers would have celebrated a Harvest Festival in the Autumn but now they have found themselves working longer into the year and so decided this year to have a Pre-Harvest Festival and Gilbert was very quick to extend an invitation to us two.  We are so glad he did.

It wasn’t long before the very good Champagne arrived along with canapes.  Then Gilbert came around again  topping people up.  Not long after Gerard came around and so it went on, and on, and on.  This was seriously good bubbly!   Finally, we were invited to sit down for food.  Earlier, we had seen caterers arrive and set up across the yard.  Lunch was steak and frites.  Not just steak but an enormous slab of meat so we decided to have half each.  Then the frites came around again, oh, nearly forgot, wine to go with the meal.  By now we were floating after so much fizzy and red wine, boy can these people party.  Then there was desert with more wine and finally the food was done.  But not the drink!  Gilbert brought around his farmhouse cider followed by his own Calvados which is not to everyone’s taste.  J-P suggested to Gilbert that Neil was a fan so suddenly an enormous glass was poured.  There was dancing and Chantal was keen to get Neil on the dance floor.

The term ‘floating’ was an understatement.  Thankfully, someone suggested we go for a walk which was a great idea, anything to get us away from Gilbert and Gerard who, by now, had just about most people covering their glasses with one hand and shouting ‘non!’  The walk was a blur but going by the step counter on our phones it was quite long.  When we got back some of the children became more comfortable with the two British guests and bravely wanted to try out their school English.  Then Romain decided that we should have a tour of the farm which was really interesting and another good opportunity to avoid the hospitality of Gilbert and Gerard.

After the tour we returned to the party as they were about to sit down for dinner.  It was nearly 9pm and J-P recognised that we were now struggling so asked us if we would like to travel home, we did!  It had been a truly momentous day with unbelievable hospitality shown to us by complete strangers.  Back at the house we had a supper of charcuterie, J-P opened red wine for himself and Calvados for Neil.  Cheryl talked about Francoise Hardy, a famous French singer who had died recently and Chantal played some of her music and she sang along really beautifully.   It had been an amazing day.

Needless to say we were late arriving for the farewells the next morning in the town and even missed being in the group farewell photo although we’re not sure that anyone noticed. 

After lots of kissing, hugging and hand shaking we set off for Baron-sur-Odon, a small village about 20 minutes away.   We went to visit Jean-Marc and Collette who Neil hadn’t seen for about 30 years.  When Neil was introduced to his first twinning experience whilst living in North Devon they were his very first hosts.  We had coffee with them and looked at photos that Neil had brought with him and that they had taken too.  We talked about what the children are doing now, grandkids and so on.  Neil’s children would have been about 4 or 5 and they have 3 who would have been 4-6 years older.

Then it was off for the hour long drive to Bayeux.  We had booked a B&B about a 20 minute walk from the centre and it was the prefect base as parking in Bayeux is not easy.  We arrived in time to visit the tapestry before a beer and dinner.  The next 2 days were spent visiting the Normandy Beaches, memorials and cemeteries.  80 years since the landings but still so many people visiting to pay their respects.  To see so many graves of so many young men and women is heartbreaking.  The new British memorial was stunning, with the amazing art installation called Walking with Giants.

Back home and the next few days were pretty hectic with the U3A wine club meeting, sibling lunch in The Cotswolds with June, Roy, Bill and Sue, tourist information on the Sunday plus Cheryl worked behind the bar for our local candidates hustings for the upcoming election. 

Cheryl spent a few days in London to see Freddy, Alex and Luke and help whilst Freddy was away for a stag weekend.  Luke enjoyed his trip to The Transport Museum and also gave Nana heart failure when he disappeared in the empty play park when she turned her back for 10 seconds to get his ball.  Fortunately he was soon discovered happily exploring the baseball court at the back – phew!  Just losing a grandson is not something she wishes to repeat.

We have some very exciting news as there is one huge ‘Just Do It’ which Neil has wanted to do, but you will just have to wait until next time to find out just what it is.

We will leave you with a few images of the wonderful food we enjoyed on our trip – bon appetit!

Power to The People

This year’s theme is Just Do It.  We’re going to focus on getting on with the things that really matter to us and trying out a few new things we’ve always wanted to do.  This month it was all about the community we live in and the simple things that ordinary people can do to make things better.

Since returning in March we’ve not enjoyed what has been endless grotty weather, and rain, rain and more rain.  But there have been many positives – the grass needs cutting, the spring flowers are out and the garden has come to life, the birds are singing and getting frisky, decent wine is readily available as is real ale and with a bit of luck and a following wind it’ll be BBQ season very soon.

Neighbours Paul & Maureen looked after the house while we were away so we took them for a thank you meal in The Shed Restaurant and sampled their new bistro menu.  A new experience was the accompanying cocktail flight. Food and drinks were delicious.

Picture This

You may remember that last October we met Colin and Iris on the cruise.  It turned out that Colin and Neil went to the same school when they were 11.  Neil showed Colin some photos of some of the classes and Colin revealed that he had a full school photo from 1967.  Anyway, they were staying in Exmouth and messaged to see if we were around.  So, we met them for lunch and Colin brought the photo – brilliant!  He’s loaned it to us and we’ve had a copy made by our local Seaton Design & Print and we’re now in the process of getting it framed.  It’s over a meter long and 25cm high.  Lots of familiar faces for Neil to try and name but it is not far off 60 years ago that the picture was taken.  Sadly, a few of the faces are no longer with us.

Keep on Running

The middle of March brought the annual Grizzly Run.  It’s a gruelling (there’s a clue in the title) 20 mile run firstly along the pebble beach to warm you up and then along the coastal path westwards.  The weather was lovely but because of the constant rains over the last few weeks it was the muddiest Grizzly in years possibly even since its inception in 1988.  People come from all over the country and we also get international competitors.  We don’t take part in the running but we impressed ourselves when our team came second at the fundraiser quiz – however, we do realise it was due to the stellar knowledge of team mates Bob & Steve, thanks guys.

Start of the Grizzly

Things can only get better

Trying something new, towards the end of March we went on a Warners Hotel break at Hayling Island.  It was meant to be a short break with dance lessons of all types and standards.  Sadly, it was neither, it was mostly ballroom dancing, most of the people were so experienced that they had their own special dancing shoes, the average age was 80+, the holiday park was a tad run down and sad looking and the weather wasn’t kind.  So all in all it wasn’t a hugely successful weekend.

However, we always find some positives.  The rifle shooting activity was good fun and Cheryl was extremely smug about being better than Neil.  After deciding the dancing lessons were a bit of a dud we managed to dodge the showers to take walks exploring Hayling Island and had a pleasant day out in Chichester. 

We also found another activity which suited us better and the cocktail making class was a hit right from the start.  It cost £17 each but for that we learnt how to make 4 different cocktails and drink them!  Plus, the guy doing the teaching had to make one to start with and they were piling up on the bar.  Nobody else seemed bothered so at the end of the lesson we grabbed the extras and went and sat in the bar for the rest of the afternoon.  After a bottle of wine that evening with dinner we did have a good sleep that night.  We don’t think we will rush to book another Warners break.

Easter parade

Alex, Freddy & Luke came to visit for Easter and we had a wonderful time with them.  The new soft play in the Jurassic centre had just opened and kept Luke amused.  Cheryl couldn’t resist playing along as it was big enough for adults as well.  Luke timed his nap to perfection allowing us all to enjoy a great lunch at The Picture House on Easter Sunday.

That’s what friends are for

Marlpit Lane Social Club had a night at the Thai restaurant which was a lot of fun.  More fun was had at our Perk up Pat Party.  Cheryl bumped into her one day and the expected improvement in her painful feet had not transpired and her recent visit to the consultant did little to improve her mood.  We decided to have a surprise party to cheer her up and with our lovely bunch of neighbours that’s exactly what we did, along with some food and just the odd bottle of wine.  Pat went home much happier than when she arrived.

This is how we do it

We like to do our bit to help out whenever we can and have both been enjoying sessions at the Tourist Information Centre which is manned by volunteers at the weekends during the Summer.  Neil has also been spending a lot of time putting together the volunteer rotas each month. 

Regular readers know that we volunteer at our local arts and entertainment venue, The Gateway Theatre.  Neil cleans the pipes every two weeks and Cheryl has agreed to take on the role of Bar Manager on a temporary basis.  The charity needs to raise funds to pay for its running costs plus a share of maintenance and insurance for the building which has increased substantially over the previous year’s amount.  The revenue from the bar is crucial to raising the necessary funds to pay these bills so Cheryl plans to maximise the return from the bar by analysing profitability, optimal stock reordering levels and streamlining the products on offer.  As some of you know, she can be a bit of a finance nerd and does love a stacked spreadsheet.   It’s an ongoing project but hopefully in the next few weeks we will have made some changes which should deliver some improvements. 

We also helped out with the Seaton Shipshape Festival organised by Seaton Chamber.  It’s all about getting Seaton spruced up ready for the tourist season with such things as cleaning gutters of all the weeds, cleaning shopfronts, weeding the streets and so on. It’s been fantastic to see how people can contribute and make a difference just by doing simple things to make the town look its best before the main summer season starts.  We both got stuck in with the beach clean up organised by Jurassic Coast Clean Up.  They were able to identify the really large hard plastic object as a mussel float and had the contact number of the fishermen who would collect it for re use. 

We also offered our top skills of dressing up in pirate costumes, having fun with the public and taking as many silly pictures as possible whilst wandering  around the town with friends Graham and Liz handing out leaflets for the big party at the end held at The Gateway.  The series of photos were then posted to the local social media along with the some totally cringeworthy puns to attract ticket sales. 

Sadly, we couldn’t be at the party as we had already committed to a visit to family in Bristol and the next day Cheryl travelled on to Champneys for a couple of nights with the girls to celebrate Anna’s birthday.  The Champneys break was superb with Anna on top form between her treatments and her mum June walking better than ever since her recent surgery.

It’s a Jungle out there

Wildlife report from the garden.  Silver has become our pheasant in residence, he’s still very shy but is getting used to the place where Neil will put out seeds.  We had a bit of a shock one afternoon to find a new visitor staring at us through the patio doors. 

Mindful of protecting Silver as pheasants really are the most stupid of birds and an extremely easy target for a hungry predator, Neil made sure that Foxy soon got the message that our garden was not a safe refuge for him. 

Mid-month and we noticed that Silver was limping and clearly had a very sore leg he could barely stand on.  Ringo developed a gammy leg last year so we wonder what on earth the pheasants are doing to damage themselves in this way.  At the end of the month we had a surprise visit – Ringo was back and limped his way happily to Neil for his handful of seeds.  Will we have handbags at dawn between Silver and Ringo?  Who knows

We could be right, we could be wrong….

Just do it also means being open to saying yes when opportunities arise and this was the case for Cheryl when a last minute ticket was available to go and see one of her teenage influences, punk legend John Lydon aka Johnny Rotten at nearby Axminster Guildhall.  Huge fan Eric had booked himself the VIP meet and greet and an additional ticket for the show for his wife who couldn’t attend at the last minute so Cheryl went along.  It was not something she would have booked, but, came back buzzing from the event especially as Eric managed a front row seat for her for the second half enabling her to sing and dance along to the closing songs – Anarchy in the UK and Rise, and she took the opportunity to shake his hand.








































This year’s

Status Quo

Being back in Benaulim is like putting on a comfy pair of slippers………bliss. Not much had changed but then it rarely does. We had lots of our favourite travel chums for playmates, and a warm welcome from the staff in all our favourite venues who we’ve known so long and have been so kind to us that we consider them friends. It was so good to be back.  The partying started almost immediately after we landed, and it went on pretty much throughout our time there.  We had some new experiences, a minor mishap for Neil which continues to annoy the hell out of him, and a lucky escape one evening all due to Neil being a miserable git.

It’s been a long time since we flew Air India with some good and some not so good experiences over the years.  However, the new direct flight into Goa instead of the usual painful hop via Mumbai or Delhi was too good to resist.  There have been several posts on the TripAdvisor Goa forum moaning about a few things, but we hoped that by turning left when we got on the plane rather than going right, we had half a chance of getting a good flight.

Well, the lounge at Gatwick was simple but the drinks flowed, and the food was fine including a huge plate of very good blue cheese which didn’t get finished so it found its way to Benaulim.  The flight was smooth, the food and drink really good and we both flattened our beds and slept soundly.  Talking of sleeping soundly, a lot has to do with being issued PJ’s and slippers, yes, very stylish PJ’s and made by TUMI, very posh.  There were only 18 seats in Business and once we were all dressed for bed it looked like a scene out of Con Air! 

As we were in posh class we were first off the plane and sailed through immigration only to stutter to a halt as our ‘priority baggage’ had obviously been loaded onto the plane first so was very slow in coming off – ‘so not quite priority then?’.

Next, we had to get a taxi and for the first time we used the Goa Miles App (similar to Uber) to share a taxi with a couple going to another complex just down the road from our apartment.  It worked well and we saved ourselves quite a bit of money by sharing which was just as well as the new airport at Mopa is a lot further North than Dabolim.  We arrived in Benaulim and lovely landlord Tony was waiting with the keys and had stocked the fridge with milk to make tea in the morning.  Time for a bit of unpacking before heading off to Savio’s for dinner.  A truly warm welcome from Gopal, Rueben, Roy and Lal and the usual quality nosh and a few Kingfisher Strong (8%) and Gin like substance with Tonic for Cheryl.

Saturday was a quiet day on the beach and saying hello to people including shack owner Rex and Vittal his long serving ‘shack boy’ (hardly a boy when he has 2 children!) plus new ‘shack boy’ Jimmy from north India.  Sky Rooftop restaurant for dinner to make sure we kept in Bishnu’s good books before an early night and once again the kitchen delivered superb food.

Sunday was the start of the partying with Brunch at The Fairfield.  Whilst we weren’t feeling starved of good wine, well not at this point, it was good to meet more friends over some excellent food and wine and very pleasant surroundings.  After plenty of drinks, and with jet lag still a factor, we got back to the apartment and had a very good sleep although Neil did manage to get out around 8pm for a couple of KF strongs and a cheese, garlic nan whilst Cheryl just slept.

The following week we had a trip on Betty’s Boats with John and Suz and this set the scene for the rest of our stay in Goa.  Sunday brunches interspersed with the odd boat trip broken up by lazy days on the beach laying in the shade either swimming, reading, doing puzzles or crosswords. Thanks to Connie and Paul we even had a themed Sounds of the Seventies Boat Trip. It was fabulous fun as everyone managed a costume and there was a lot of dad dancing going on.

Then, shock horror, it rained!  Not much but at this time of year rain is unheard of.

We couldn’t come to Goa without going to see Rahul the dentist to get our teeth checked out and we also did something we’ve never done before.  We then went to Victor Hospital for a full health check, something friends had done, we had talked about doing over the years but had never got around to.  The check included 5 blood samples for liver, diabetes, PSA, cholesterol, kidneys etc, a Health Questionnaire, blood pressure, urine and stool samples, chest X-Ray, ultrasound scan of all vital organs, an echo/stress test for the heart, an ECG, consultation with the eye specialist and dentist plus lots more.  Finally, a chat with a Senior Consultant about the results.  She said she had rarely seen one as good from a 70 year old, well done Neil. All this for less than £24.

That night we went to Greg’s birthday party at his favourite shack on the beach.  DJ Paul did the music so it was full of Greg’s favourites, 80’s, ska, northern soul and reggae.  We danced around like Tasmanian Devils only for Neil to wake up next morning hardly able to walk.  He had had problems in the past with this left foot but was now told by many previous sufferers that he probably had plantar fasciitis.  We had never heard of it before but quickly found out that its quite common.  It didn’t get much better for a day or two so Rex gave us the number of a doctor in Margao who specialised in problems just like this.  He confirmed the amateur diagnosis was correct and gave Neil exercises to do as that’s about all you can do.  He is getting better but then for no reason he has another bad day.  So, having had a body check that said he had a great ‘bod’ for a 70 year old he was now hobbling around like 100 year old!  That’ll teach him to be so bloody smug.

Of course, mustn’t forget Wednesday quiz nights which we won the first week and having peaked early there really is only one way to go.  It doesn’t matter, all the money goes to the girl’s orphanage in nearby Colva.  It’s a fun night, it keeps the brain in gear and the current donation is close to £1000 and climbing which, for India, is a serious amount of money.

Having had Sunday Brunch at the nearby Fairfield by Marriott we decided to upgrade and go to The Alila Diwa in nearby Majorda.  The A. D. is now part of Hyatt Hotels, and they allow people to use the pool before Brunch.  The pool is outstanding, an infinity pool overlooking the paddies and the palms and somewhere between 40-50m long.  The food is excellent and came with additional entertainment – very upmarket and expensive Indian Weddings.  They are huge, cost eye watering amounts of money and yet we were always welcome to join in on the dancing. 

We had settled into a rut but what a rut!!  Beach in the day, dinner in the village in the evening, occasional boat trip to enjoy dolphin spotting and the stunning River Sal plus Sunday Brunch alternatively between The Fairfield and The Alila Diwa.  It’s tough but someone had to do it otherwise all those businesses wouldn’t exist. 

Trouble in Paradise

Our friends Anette and Keld from Denmark were due to leave Benaulim at midnight by taxi to go to the airport to fly home.  They like a restaurant called Valonia’s Wheels which on a Tuesday has live music.  They planned to say farewell to everyone with singing and dancing the evening away before walking back to their guest house to pick up the taxi.  We were invited but as Neil is a miserable git and, Cheryl kind of agrees on this one, the music by ‘Two to Tango’ is worse than ‘The Birdie Song’ – we didn’t go.

We got a message the next morning from Brenda explaining what happened that night. Colin and Jan left a little early as Colin wasn’t feeling great which left Anette and Keld, Roger and Ann plus Tony and Brenda to walk home.  They left shortly after 11 for the walk back to the village and then disaster happened.  The road was quiet, Benaulim is generally a sleepy place, but there was an idiot on a motor bike on his way back from the beach and he ploughed into Roger and Keld who were bringing up the rear of the party.  Both ended up seriously injured, Roger with a huge gash in his right calf and Keld with a smashed up left leg with the bone sticking out of his leg. 

The ambulance took 45 minutes to arrive and they were eventually whisked off to the private hospital where they received treatment.  Both of them were complaining of pain in the opposite leg that was obviously injured but the staff were busy treating the legs that were bleeding.  After a couple of days the doctors began to take notice as the pain for both of them was getting worse.  After further scans it was apparent that Roger had major ligament damage to his left leg and Keld had a minor fracture to his right leg.  To cut a very long story short, neither the UK or Danish insurance companies came out smelling of something nice, they were both patched up well in Victory Hospital and many of us formed a rota to go and see them regularly in hospital.  Keld was eventually airlifted home to Odense and Rogar chose to stay in Goa and have his ligaments fixed there rather than wait months for the NHS to get around to fixing him up.  At the time we type this Keld is home and healing well and Roger is still in Goa having daily physio after his operation.    It could all have been so much worse, but it does make you realise that none of us know what’s around the corner.  Lives can be changed, permanently, in a split second and it could have been us if we had been there.

There was one positive that came out of the accident.  Keld likes a cigarette, not many, but a puff a few times a day.  Knowing that he wouldn’t be able to smoke in hospital he had his last cigarette whilst laying in the road waiting for the ambulance and, as we type, he has still given it up.  He’ll dine out on the story of the last cigarette for some time to come.

We loved our stay in Goa and finished off with sundowners, food and the most exquisite sunset that we have seen in years – absolutely fabulous.  Colin and Jan, Tony and Brenda and Ann minus Roger had a lovely evening and after walking Ann home to nurse Roger we finished off in Savio’s for a few night caps and to say our goodbyes. 

Leaving on a Jet Plane

The next day we flew north with John and Suz to visit a place we’ve put off visiting ever since we first traveled India in the early 2000’s.  Varanasi, one of the most spiritual places on the planet.  Certainly, if you are Hindu and want to get good karma it’s the place to go to and dip in The Ganges and it’s the place to have your remains cremated on the banks of the river.  We pushed the boat out, literally, and paid a lot of money for a simple guesthouse that sits overlooking one of the bathing ghats.  The location was perfect, with a rooftop where we enjoyed watching the activity on the river and had breakfast and dinner. 

During the day we walked along the river footpath past the various ghats taking in the atmosphere and observing all the different activities taking place. On one of our walks, we watched a beautifully wrapped body unloaded from the roof of a tuk-tuk before it was taken to the riverside for cremation on one of the many funeral pyres at the two burning ghats. There was smoke everywhere from the many family celebrations/cremations that were taking place.  At dawn and dusk the Ganga Aarti is performed. Its a devotional ritual which uses fire as an offering and we were fortunate to observe both as part of the river cruises we took. Whilst neither of us are religious it was fascinating to see such passion from the devotees for their faith.

We thought it would be quite a sombre experience but the atmosphere was uplifting and full of joy. The pilgrim groups taking their holy dips were having a great time laughing together and the people on the many boats on the water were waving and taking pictures of each other and that included taking pictures of us.

Next stop was Amritsar, home of the famous Golden Temple and a return to one of our favourite places. This is another very spiritual place but this time for Sikhs.  It is a stunning temple that sits in the middle of a lake within a huge temple complex. We had to remove our shoes and wear a head covering. It was a first for John and Suz who loved it.  We wandered around the temple complex by day and at dusk as the atmosphere is different. We also took tea with the pilgrims in the Langar. It’s a communal kitchen and dining area which serves meals to all free of charge regardless of religion, caste, gender or economic status. People sit on the floor and eat together and the kitchen is manned by volunteers. We got chatting with several people including the lovely gentlemen pictured below and we had many requests to be in family selfies.

Early in the morning we queued for an hour to get inside the golden temple itself and see, yet again, the passion from the pilgrims.  Again the atmosphere was wonderfully uplifting. It was a lot of fun, chatting to Sikh families who were visiting from all over the world including Canada and Australia.  On the way out of the temple Neil was handed a red rose by one of the Temple’s Elders, ‘this is for you’ he said.  We are now trying to dry it in the hope that we can preserve it and it can go into our display cabinet at the top of the stairs which contains our travel memorabilia.   

Amritsar is also very close to the border with Pakistan. We took a taxi to nearby Wagah where every night there is a special ceremony as the flags of India and Pakistan are lowered as the border is officially closed for the night. Although it is performed by Border Force Guards it has evolved over the years into an over the top theatrical performance full of pomp, pride and swagger. There is a purpose built stadium on both sides to allow the public to view and it’s all free to attend. The Indian side is about ten times the size of the Pakistan stadium and the atmosphere was electric with lots of good humoured flag waving and singing beforehand as the audiences are whipped into a patriotic frenzy by the warm up performers who were superb. On the Pakistan side there was a one legged flag bearer who spun round and round like a whirling dervish to the delight and awe of all onlookers. It was truly astounding but sadly we weren’t able to get a good picture to share with you.

Homeward Bound

The time had come to fly home but our trip was to have one final twist – Neil woke up at 4am with Delhi Belly, well, The Amritsar Runs to be precise.  Not a good day to be constantly looking for a toilet with a 9hr flight home.  Fortunately, he wasn’t out of control, and we did have a nice flatbed to lie in once we had taken off.  Hoping, somewhat wishfully, he thought that several G&T’s would kill the bug.  It didn’t work but it did help him sleep most of the journey home with the regular visits to the loo.  With only 18 seats in Business Class it meant that he didn’t, thankfully, have to queue! 

We arrived back in Blighty and it was time to say our goodbyes To John & Suz – thanks for being great travel buddies. We caught the train from Gatwick to stay with Alex and Freddy and baby Luke and Neil went straight to bed. Thanks to Freddy for booking a ride on the Mail Rail. Located near the Postal Museum this is a tiny train which runs underground and carried mail beneath the busy streets of London. It was in use from 1927 until 2003 and is now used for tours into the subterranean world where the mail was sorted and ran from Paddington in the West to Whitechapel in the East, a distance of 6.5 miles. Lovely few days catching up with the boys although after endless repeats of reading Hairy McClary it’s no longer Cheryl’s favourite book!

We’ve been back in Seaton a while now and have got back into our normal routine.  It is good to be home even though it’s raining again as we type.  The grass is cut, the birds are singing as Spring erupts, bacon sandwiches, real ale, homemade Scotch eggs from the butcher, working the bar at The Gateway, Ringo is still making our garden look beautiful and, generally, life is good, very good.  Ah, and not to mention several more trips to look forward to but you’ll have to wait a while to hear about them.

Before we go let’s have a stalker update!  At the time we were ‘outed’ by our stalker(s) we did see some unusual activity on the site stats. We had a high number of hits and reads from a brand new location, and one which we couldn’t connect with any of you, our dear readers. We were at a loss until recently we struck gold and heard a comment about this place which could be the missing link we have been looking for.

This post has been brought to you by the following sponsors – absolutely no payments were taken by us for promoting these products!!

Beyond The Sea

You could say we got a bit carried away…..well it was very good value for money…..it took us to some places we have never visited before, and we had the ultimate sea view from our room.  We spent most of the month soaking up some late summer sun on a very large cruise ship as it relocated from the Mediterranean to the Canaries.

We had a morning flight to Malta from Heathrow and as Neil likes being organised, the train tickets and overnight stay near the airport were booked well in advance.  While we were on the canal boat last month Cheryl’s cousin Roy from Oz announced that he was coming to Britain and that the only day we could meet due to both his and our itineraries was the day we had to get to Heathrow.  What happened next was quite odd to say the least.

Having booked the train with non-refundable tickets we took the decision to book more tickets on a much earlier train so that we could meet Cousin Roy and partner Heather. Non-refundable tickets are usually quite cheap and the original ones we booked were less than £10 each so losing them was hardly going to break the bank.  Now we had non-refundable tickets booked for two trains.  Guess what happened next?  Yes – an announcement of yet another bloody train strike! 

As our public transport options are very limited we were faced with a very expensive taxi ride and luckily we managed to book our favourite local firm but it did mean a really early start as he was committed to another job in Bristol later that day.  On the bright side as it was a strike we were entitled to claim a refund on the tickets we had bought but Cheryl made sure that the transactions were made over a couple of days, just in case.  So, all was not lost.

The Sunday before we were meant to leave, a Dutch lady went into Tourist Information looking for help to get to Heathrow on Wednesday to get a flight home to The Netherlands as she had just found out about the train strike.  Lailla from the TI Centre posted on Facebook to see if anyone could help.  Cheryl saw it and thought, hey that’s the day we are going.  Slight problem was that the contact number she left was wrong.  A few more posts followed trying to track her down and let her know that a solution was out there.  Eventually Neil’s phone rang and it was our driver Hisham asking if we would mind sharing our taxi – and if yes, could we go really early? So, a result all round, we got the lady to Heathrow in time for her flight and we got the taxi for half price!

We got to The Travelodge at Feltham much too early to check in so we dropped our bags and headed off for a quick lunch before catching the bus to Kew where we had agreed to meet Roy and Heather who used the boat service from Westminster to Kew Gardens for the day.  The afternoon was spent walking along The Thames towards Richmond, a beer in a riverside pub and then dinner in yet another pub before catching the bus back to Feltham.  It was great to see them and catch up even if it was only for a few hours as they had been so good to us on both our visits to Australia.

Next day we arrived in Malta where we were bussed to our home for the next 22 nights, the P&O Cruise liner The Azura.  Whilst it’s not the biggest ship in the P&O portfolio we were both blown away by the size of it, nearly 300m long and able to carry over 3000 passengers.  Neil was not sure that he was going to like cruising so 22 nights seemed like a bit of a monster to cut your teeth on sailing the seas.  It wasn’t just about getting a bargain, which it was at just over £100/night each including flights, full board, entertainment, the trips ashore plus around £280 each to spend on board in the bar.  The ship was to take us to Croatia, somewhere we’ve never been, Sicily, Sardinia and Majorca that we had never been to plus Lanzarote and Tenerife that Neil had never been to.  On top of that there were a few other places in between.  We then had a flight back from Tenerife with the opportunity to stop in London for a couple of nights to visit Alex, Freddy and baby Luke.

Our cabin on deck 11 with balcony was excellent and that evening we set sail for Split in Croatia.  The first day was ‘at sea’ which gave us the opportunity to check out where things were on the ship.  There were 3 waiter served restaurants, 3 speciality restaurants  plus 2 buffet style places to scoff as much as you wanted.  There were more bars than we could dream of.  The gym was well equipped, but the multiple pools were quite small, so we didn’t envisage using them much, if at all.  For our meals we went for flexible dining which meant that you could use any place to eat and that in the main restaurants we could opt to go on shared tables to meet fellow cruisers.  After our first dinner we quickly concluded that this trip was going to be more than just OK as the company and the food were very good.  After our first breakfast it was apparent that we were going to have to be very careful just how much we ate as the food was excellent, varied and plentiful, too plentiful!  Just as well we avoided the buffet restaurants!

Our first stop was Split in Croatia which was very pretty albeit very touristy and busy.  We could have booked excursions at extra cost but having been independent travellers since we started travelling it seemed just as easy to wander around the town ourselves and explore.  Maps were available which gave us the major points of interest and photo opportunities.  It was also much warmer than we thought and after a few hours walking around we were tired and headed back for a leisurely lunch.

We set sail that evening and next morning we were in Trieste in Italy ready for our next port of call.  We had been warned that it would be busy as the town was hosting the biggest regatta anywhere in the world and, boy, was it busy.  We chose the explore the area away from the harbour before joining the throngs again to find the shuttle bus back to the ship.

We were still struggling to get to grips with where things were on the boat so kept finding ourselves on the wrong deck or at the wrong end of the boat, ‘fore and aft’ according to Neil or ‘pointy or flat end’ according to Cheryl.  Sometimes it was both and on certain decks you couldn’t walk all the way through from one end to the other.  October we thought would be a great time to visit The Med, not too hot and probably still quite dry.  Well, the sea was like a mill pond, the weather in the late 20’sC and the forecast was for much of the same for as far as we could see.  Fab!

Next stop was Zadar in Croatia.  It had a lovely sea front promenade plus old city walls and pretty narrow streets containing lots of little restaurants, tourist tat shops and the usual overpriced clothes and gift shops.  It also had two very unusual attractions.  On the promenade they had built a ‘Sun Salutation’ which had several concentric circles of solar panels each about the size of half A4.  This is meant to be much more attractive at night when the panels emitted a light show which sadly we didn’t see.  The other quirky item is probably one of the most unusual things we have come across.  It was called The Sea Organ and it was a series of underground tubes which were positioned to allow the sea water to flow through.  The sound emanated from a series of holes in the promenade and the effect was a little like pan pipes, whale noises and a church organ.  We went straight to it when we arrived and loved it.  On our walk around the town we kept talking about it and Cheryl had the idea that before we got the shuttle bus back to the ship we should revisit and lie on the floor next to the holes where the sound came from.  It just blew our minds as it was so much louder, and you could really hear the different sounds being caused by the waves lapping against the pipes.  It wasn’t long before we had lots of other people laying around the promenade listening.  We should become tour guides!

We set sail that evening and the next morning we arrived in Dubrovnik, a place we have both really wanted to visit.  It is very touristy, but it is stunning beautiful with distinctive red roof tiles in the old town surrounded by old and high city walls.  It got badly bombed by the Serbs in the 1990’s but it has been restored to great effect.  At 35 Euro a ticket to walk around the walls it was something of a rip off but the chances of us returning are relatively low, so we went for it.  We obviously enjoyed it as we didn’t moan about the cost afterwards so maybe it wasn’t such bad value after all.

Our next day was at sea enroute back to Malta for some people to get off and for others to board for the remaining 2 weeks.  We discovered the gym which we used on sea days to help offset the amount of food and drink we were consuming.  Unlike most of the other ‘inmates’ we used the stairs rather than the lifts which also helped get the heart pumping especially if you were going to and from deck 4 to get ashore for trips and deck 11 where our cabin was.

By now we were also starting to get to grips with the layout of the ship plus the evening entertainment.  We had comedians which were very funny, especially the ‘adult’ shows late at night.  These were especially amusing, and naughty, but thankfully the use of the F and B words was very, very low which especially pleased both of us.  We had a comedian/ventriloquist who had been a finalist on one the TV talent shows, and he did have us laughing so much and then we had a magician/illusionist who mesmerised us with his wizardry which was mixed in with humour.  The top draw act was however The Headliners Theatre Company.  3 female singers, 3 male singers and a host of other performers.  The singing was outstanding, the sets just so professional and the choreography was absolutely top notch – just so unbelievably in step.  We saw them as often as we could doing a number of different shows and we were never disappointed.  The quality and variety of evening entertainment was proving to be the added bonus we hadn’t anticipated. 

Back in Valetta we had the chance to explore the pretty old town in the morning, and then take a bus in the afternoon to the gorgeous old walled town of Mdina and the neighbouring town of Rabat.  A full days sight seeing for 3 Euros each!

Now, one aspect of the cruise that Neil wasn’t happy with was the formal nights held about twice a week when there was a black tie dress code for eating in the waiter service restaurants and a couple of the bars.  Neil didn’t possess a dinner jacket and nor does he want one.  Not taking part limited the various restaurants that we could eat in, in fact, it was either the buffet or one of the specialist restaurants that you paid a little extra for.  On the first night we ate in the buffet which wasn’t exciting, next time we chose a speciality restaurant which did give us a spectacular widow view as we left harbour but food was not exciting.  We didn’t fancy the overpriced Indian restaurant so were left with the casual dining restaurant selling lots of different wines.  Sadly, the tapas we had was poor so Neil began to feel a little guilty as he knew that Cheryl really enjoyed glamming up.  We had met a couple, Geoff and Alison, at one of the drink tastings and Geoff offered to loan Neil a DJ as he had brought two!  Initially, Neil declined but then with a little thought and a lot of guilt he reluctantly accepted for the next formal night.  After that we met them both in Brodie’s Bar for a beer before dinner.

We think that the excursions in Catania weren’t selling well as the Captain came on the ships tannoy to say that Catania was a little down market, in fact shabby chic.  We thought different, we actually quite liked it and enjoyed wandering through the streets. 

In Palermo we took our first excursion, to the catacombs.  These were not your average catacombs where the bodies are laid horizontal on shelves or in caskets.  These were vertical and hanging from hooks on the wall.  If you had money you could get yourself a place on the wall so that you had, in effect, immortality.  Some of the corpses were very well preserved with hair and stubble.  There was even a set of conjoined twins just a few years old.  It was actually quite spooky and whilst we understood why we couldn’t take photos it was a pity we couldn’t get just one for the blog to demonstrate just how weird this place was. This was followed by a guided tour in the town which took us to the Benedictine convent and some spectacular churches. Our guide was brimming with information she was determined we should know. Regular readers are aware of Neil’s attention span and will not be surprised to hear that we did not make it to the end of the tour. We beat a hasty retreat back to the ship for a well earned beer and lunch.

Next stop was Cagliari in Sardinia.  Again, we just wandered around the city and visited the inevitable church or two plus a Roman amphitheatre where gladiators and Christians fought it out with each other and the array of exotic animals like lions.  Not quite as impressive as The Coliseum but you could imagine the noise from the crowds and the animals and picture the thumbs down as another poor soul was condemned to an early grave.

Quickly moving on we visited Palma in Majorca and it’s huge and impressive Cathedral.  We really liked Palma and it’s little winding streets lined with shops selling baguettes loaded with Palma ham.  They looked delicious but with so much food being consumed on the boat we resisted the temptation and chose instead to leave it for a future visit perhaps?

One of the competitions that we didn’t know about was the ‘build a boat on a boat’.  That meant building a boat that would float, then remain afloat with a cargo of 6 cans of coke on it and finally withstand a tsunami in the swimming pool.  The rules were quite straight forward, you could use anything you could find on the ship but you weren’t allowed to break anything to get a small part of it.  Geoff and Alison had started to build a boat but they needed a few more things to be sure that it would pass all the tests.  Cheryl had the idea of going into one of the overpriced fashion boutiques to see if they had anything that they could use.  They did manage to find a few items and then one of the ladies suggested that they might like to take part in a fashion show modelling some of their clothes in return.  Cheryl jumped at the chance, but Alison declined.  At this point the unsuspecting Neil wandered in and was immediately pounced upon to take part. 

We did model some very expensive clothes and had to walk down 3 flights of open stairs in the atrium so that all could see.  This was on the arm of an Officer of the ship.  It was a laugh and when Neil handed back the clothes and accessories that he had modelled he worked out that his outfit, if you wanted to buy it in the shop, would cost around £500!!  The Lacoste polo shirt alone was almost £100 and the Ray Ban shades £135!  We both decided not to buy.

We had a day at sea when the fashion show took place before arriving in Malaga for yet more churches, cathedrals and sightseeing. 

The weather continued to bless us with beautiful weather and temperatures in the mid to late 20’sC.  After another day at sea we arrived in Cadiz where we had booked our second excursion.  A walking tour of the town followed by a dancing lesson, flamenco!  There were about a dozen of us and we did our best but we decided to stick with our day jobs, being retired!  We were also fed some very nice tapas, like we needed more food, and a glass of some very dodgy sherry.  Hey, when in Spain!

We had planned to leave the port that night to head towards The Canary Islands.  However, our first wet day in Cadiz was to be made all the worst by high winds and rough seas.  Thankfully, the Captain decided to play safe and delay our departure until the following morning much to Cheryl’s relief.  Our two days at sea were crammed with activities including watching the final of the ship’s Master Chef Competition.  We had missed the heats but the final was to be between our very humorous Captain and a rather arrogant Michelin star chef.  Why he was in it we don’t know but we enjoyed the Captain’s off the wall sense of humour and the fact that the Captain won…..yes, yes, yes!

The final of the ‘build a ship on a ship competition’ also took place and Alison and Geoff’s ship, Titanic 2, came a very creditable joint 1st.  It should have won but the other joint winner was an entry by a boy of about 9 years old so we think the judges gave him a little extra credit.  It didn’t matter, it was all about the taking part and having fun building it and giving the audience a few laughs each of the boats were put through their paces in the swimming pool.

Now, here’s the strangest thing.  At the very first liquor tasing, we were treated to Cotswold Gin.  Neil started to chat to a couple and the conversation started to discuss the Cotswolds and where we all lived.  They lived in Ross-on-Wye, so Neil said I have a niece that lives there, and the conversation eventually came around to Gloucester and schools.  To cut a long story short Colin went to the same school as Neil and was in the same year.  Whilst Neil sought of remembered his name, Colin didn’t recognise Neil’s name, although they both knew various characters from the same year.  Colin’s wife Iris went out with one of Neil’s friends although she wasn’t proud of the fact.  What a small world.  We met them for lunch on a few occasions and Colin was able to add a few names to the school class photos that Neil had. 

By now were counting down the days with a stop in Arrecife in Lanzarote and Santa Cruz in Tenerife.  It was good to visit as Neil had never been but it confirmed that The Canaries was not too much to our liking although if we just wanted s short flight to winter sun it might do the job.

Cruise over, we had the 4hr flight home to spend the weekend with Alex, Freddy and Luke.  He’s now walking and runs around the house pushing his walking aid like a whirling dervish.  Apparently, he has the same walker at nursery and no other child has ever run around at such speed as Luke. We had a great time with the boys and look forward to seeing them again later in the year.

The train journey home was uneventful and so we got back into Seaton life very quickly.  That’s it, we know it’s a long blog entry, but it was worth recording as much information as we could.  We did enjoy our cruise, the cabin and balcony was perfect, entertainment outstanding, we met lots of lovely people, the food was excellent and we had a taster visit to places that we might, or might not, like to return to for a more in-depth visit.  Cheryl does suffer from motion sickness and took lots of medication with her but was pleased that it was left unused.  To cap it all, as it was a relocation cruise it was amazing value, an absolute bargain!

It’s a good thing we did like the cruise……but you will have to wait until next month to find out why.

The Big Seven-Zero

Yup, our blog this time starts with a momentous occasion, Neil hits the dizzy heights of 70. Surely not? we hear you say……..he only looks 69!   At this age Neil decided he needed more than just one day to celebrate so he started on the 11th August and went past his birthday on the 16th and all the way up to the 20th.

First up was the Gala Night for the Indiana Jones Film when we got dressed up for a screening of the film in our local venue where we had canapes and bubbly on arrival.  We had a great night although the film wasn’t the best.  The following evening we went with neighbours to a Murder Mystery Event where half a dozen people on stage read the mystery with clues as to ‘who dunnit’ in the style of a radio play.  It was just so good to see how a handful of people with such limited resources can put on such an entertaining show.  The special effects man had us in stitches!

For Neil’s actual birthday we had smoked salmon and scrambled eggs for breakfast in bed and then cheese for lunch and a very expensive bottle of red from our friends in France.  Then it was off to The Gateway again for a very funny spoof of two Shakespeare plays all in less than 90 minutes.  Plus, Neil wearing his ’70 Today’ badge, was called on stage to help with a minor stabbing….fab! After the show we took off down to the beach to walk off the red wine and the odd drink we had at The Gateway.  Then we bumped into Lisa and Sean who insisted that we went for a couple of beers at The Vaults to celebrate Neil’s birthday.  Like we needed to celebrate more!  For the evening we went for Neil’s favourite food, curry, what else?  Here, his ‘70 Today’ badge got him a very nice free desert with a candle in it! 

After meandering home via the beachfront, and turned down another invite from a group of total strangers to join them having a birthday drink on the beach, we finished the posh red wine that we opened at lunch time and slept very well indeed.  Well Neil did but Cheryl struggled because somebody was snoring!

There was more to come the following evening.  We had invited the neighbours around for dinner and once Chris and Viv knew what the plan was they insisted in driving all the way from Brecon to take part.  Only Chris and Viv knew that we had invited a chef, Dariusz, from nearby Colyton to come to the house and prepare a 4 course dinner for everyone.  Dariusz did not let us down and even included a hands on pasta making lesson while he was preparing the food which was amazing. The neighbours were very impressed, so much so that we thought that they were never going to go home to bed.  We had a fabulous night.

Next day we drove up to Leanne’s in Cheshire where we were to have a weekend with Neil’s family.  It was action packed with walks, the odd beer (now there’s a surprise), BBQ (now there’s a surprise), a climbing wall and Sunday lunch where Neil was welcomed with a giant balloon of ‘70’ behind his chair.  It was just so good to spend the whole weekend surrounded by his family.  What a great way to finish a 70th birthday celebration which, actually, went on for over a week rather than a day or two.  Hey, it had to be done!

After slowing down for a few days we had a visit from Alex, Freddy and Luke.  Always good to see baby Luke but it is tiring keeping him out of mischief now he’s increasingly mobile.  He’ll probably be walking next time we see him so that it’ll make it even more full on.  We don’t mind, he’s such a cheery happy go lucky little fellow that we don’t feel tired until he’s gone to bed.

There were a few other events/activities like Marlpit Lane Supper Club where Neil baulked at the bill until Pat pointed out how much wine we had drunk, the new Mission Impossible Film (we liked this one even though we had to admit it was just a load of exciting tosh), volunteering at The Gateway behind the bar and volunteering at Tourist Information.

September brought us our two week narrow boat trip with Gail and Orren her dog.  We started in Ellesmere in Shropshire with the intention of completing The Four Counties Ring – Shropshire, Staffordshire, Worcestershire (West Midlands) and Cheshire.   The first week was so hot with temperatures in the UK setting September records.  Thankfully, whilst we were hot at around 28C we were much cooler than the south.  The trip was going well until Neil had an argument with a windlass when he thought he had broken his arm.  Fortunately, being something of a drama queen, he just had to contend with a very sore arm and a wound that just would not heal.  Still, it could have been worse as we have heard of people having similar accidents and finding the windlass mashing up their faces!  ‘Of course, that might have made an improvement’ says Cheryl!

The second week’s weather was not so pleasant as we had a number of wet days but on the upside we still managed to BBQ most evenings even if we did eat inside. 

The trip went so well that we calculated that we had 2 clear days extra to play with.  Neil had the idea that as Cheryl was now beginning to steer the boat a lot more we should head past the marina and get ourselves up the Llangollen Canal as far as the Pontcysylite Aqueduct.  It’s an amazing piece of engineering from Thomas Telford which was opened in 1805.  It’s over 300m long and there’s not much to prevent the captain at the back falling off and plunging nearly 40m down to the River Dee.  We have passed over it a few times before so Neil had the idea that this time it was Cheryl’s turn to take the boat over, take her first winding (a 360 degree turn) and bring it back over again. It’s just an awesome experience and she did brilliantly. 

We weren’t done.  After we gave Gail a hug we parted company and we headed off to have lunch with June and Roy plus Bill and Sue.  This time we had chosen a good venue.   The Highwayman Inn delivered a cosy environment, cheery staff and excellent food.  Bill and Sue headed off back to West London and we went to spend the evening with June and Roy and watch our first World Cup Rugby Matches.  The drive home next day started great but just past Bristol the heavens opened and we were down to 50mph as the rain was so heavy.  We stopped off to buy diesel but gave up as the filling station had a huge queue because most of it was more than 6’’ under water.

The final few days of September and early October were pretty busy.  We had the U3A wine club meeting where we had to provide 2 bottles of rose/white and 2 bottles of red each containing the letter K in any part of the grape variety, vineyard name or country.  Letter K Easy?  Actually, it wasn’t that difficult and our favourite amusing purchase was a bottle of Kylie Minogue Rose.  Sadly, most people thought it wasn’t good value and not a great taste, we agreed.   That evening we were at a quiz at The Gateway with Simon Jupp MP as our question master.  We went with Bob ‘n Shiela and Paul ‘n Maureen and improved on our position compared with the last quiz but not enough to win the prize.  The following evening we volunteered behind The Gateway Bar for the AC/DC Tribute band, it was busy and bloody loud but the band were good value giving excellent entertainment.  Then next day it was Tourist Information all day so a very busy weekend indeed.

Last month we left you wondering what Neil had been up to to get into this state.

He was transforming the garage – and had enough paint left over to do the workshop door as well.

Next month…………all at sea!