Stop right there……

No sooner had we published the February blog we were contacted by Carl who is going to do the serious structural work.  We can start next Monday!!!  Yes, oh yes, that’s serious progress at last.  We were excited and apprehensive as this was the start of living in a construction site with all the dust, noise and mess that goes with it.  Still, it’ll only be for a short while we thought………

You will all know by now why we thought wrong, and we won’t dwell on it here.  Suffice to say that we hope you are all keeping well and safe during these exceptional times.  Maybe some non Covid news will be a welcome escape.  Read on to see what we got up to in the most  extraordinary month we have experienced.

Before we could get the walls down we had to get the major plumbing work finished.  Matt arrived and swiftly removed the old boiler and that meant no heating and hot water for a week while the new boiler and radiators were fitted.  Of course we chose a really chilly week but managed well with the log burner in the study.  Our new boiler aka ‘big boy’ is great and the house is significantly warmer where the newer bigger radiators have been fitted.  We’re still a few short as these can’t be hung until the wall reconstruction is done.  Matt worked so hard and found the existing plumbing in the house something of a challenge.  Cheryl escaped to the Gym and after almost a week without a boiler Neil stayed in the shower for days! 

The garden is bursting into life and so is Phileas.  We spotted a hen perched on the fence and soon saw Phileas trying his best to impress her strutting his stuff and doing his sexy dance but unfortunately we don’t think he was successful as she hasn’t been seen since. 

The first weekend of March brings a major event to Seaton.  It’s Grizzly by name and Grizzly by nature. The 20 mile Grizzly and the 9 mile Cub races present tough challenges over a multi-terrain route including bogs, streams, pebble beaches, clifftops and ascents/descents up/down steep hills.  We took part in the fundraising quiz at the Gateway on the Friday, and our team won – yay! We’re not quite up to taking part but did our bit to support the runners by watching and cheering the start and finish on the esplanade.  Sadly, but not surprisingly, there were a number of casualties as the weather both before and during was horrid.

Progress at last

It didn’t take long to prepare for the builders.  We quickly moved what was left of the kitchen into the study, along with a small table & chairs and sofa.  It was a little cramped but a lot more space than we used to have in the caravan.  All furniture, apart from the sofas, was cleared from the living room and the carpet was carefully peeled back and placed over the top to cover them up.  The dining room was also cleared just leaving the glass top tables stacked in the corner.  Not having very much in the way of furniture and the usual household clutter was turning out to be a real bonus.

We were under no illusion about the potential dust & mess but the wonderful crew who arrived were incredibly conscientious about keeping the mess and noise to a minimum.  They put up plastic sheeting and gaffer taped the door frames leading to the hallway which was really effective.  The last day included the final removal of walls for double doors into the hallway so on that day we found ourselves sealed in with a taped door for a few hours.  We had one mishap when the guys sliced through a pipe hidden in the wall and our walls turned out to be a little more complicated than they had thought so the 3 to 4 day job turned into 6 and straddled a weekend.  We got used to living in our one room during the day with a good long walk along the beach to keep us from going stir crazy.  Looking back, it was good training for what was going to come.

Neil’s sister June and husband Roy had planned a visit to us for the weekend of 21st March and we had booked tickets for a 60s & 70s band, The Zoots, at the Gateway.  The building work was starting to overrun and with no kitchen and the extent of the mess and dust we were starting to have second thoughts as to whether we should postpone.  People were starting to talk about what was happening in Italy and Spain and the news was filling up with cases of Corona Virus in the UK.  Normal life was still continuing and Cheryl met up with Diane for a film & picnic night at the Gateway to watch The Personal Life of David Copperfield on Friday 14th March.  On Monday 16th Boris Johnson advised against non-essential travel and suggested people should not go to pubs, theatres and restaurants.  There was also a suggestion that those over 70 would be asked to stay at home.

The builders finished work on Tuesday 17th and we finally could see the full extent of the destruction.  The result was worth the dust and mess.  The space has been opened up, the light level in the kitchen has vastly improved and we can see the beautiful garden from every angle.  Wow – it’s still a long, long way from being finished with exposed brick and broken plaster and cables hanging out of the walls but to us it looked wonderful and we were so excited to get things started.

Next day the scaffold for fixing the leaky chimneys arrived and we soon had two large erections either side of the house (oooer missus!). 

To make the most of the cost of the scaffolding, which stays in place for a minimum of 4 weeks, we got a quote to drop a flue lining into the living room chimney for a log burner (to be installed next year) and to put in a flue for the existing burner in the study.   Ah, nearly forgot that the original fireplace had been bricked up and diverted when the previous owners shifted it. Just managed to get another builder lined up to deal with it and went ahead with the deposit for the flues so they could start work two weeks into the scaffold hire.  First of all the chimneys had to be cleaned, repointed and painted with ‘Storm Dry’ a freakishly expensive waterproof coating used on lighthouses and guaranteed for 25 years.  Work on that was starting on Monday 23rd March.   Everything was starting to come together at a really good pace.

Wednesday 18th March and the Gateway announced that the events planned for the weekend had been postponed.  We had a phone call with June & Roy and decided that we should postpone their visit until later in the year.  We realise now that was definitely the right thing to do.

Friday 20th March Jules from Howdens came round to check measure the kitchen following the work to remove the dividing wall and lose the arch wall.  We talked about putting in some display units either side of the dining room double doors and checked lengths of worktop & upstand as these were being ordered from a separate source.  Just needed the kitchen fitter to confirm the depths required and all that could be ordered with a lead time of 10-14 days.  That left getting the walls finished off and we were good to go.

At 5pm that same day Boris Johnson ordered all bars and restaurants to close at midnight. Things were beginning to change but the enormity of what we were facing was still not sinking in.

First thing Monday morning Dacks & Sons turned up to start work on the chimneys and we tackled stripping wallpaper from what remained of the kitchen walls to get the finishing off underway.  The worktop order was placed and we thought about getting the Howdens order set up but decided to wait for the revised quote to include the additional units.

Monday 23rd March at 8pm normal life in the UK came to an abrupt halt

Our house is in a mess but it doesn’t matter.  We were getting close to having a proper kitchen but that’s not going to happen in the foreseeable future.  The worktop factory has closed and Howdens has shut down.  However, we had the oven & hob delivered.  The chippy started work on constructing door frames and the electrician also arrived to do the first fix.  The builder lined up to remove the bricks from the fireplace called off.  The chimney repair is on hold as the company has decided to stop work.  The scaffold firm have suspended all work and have assured us the scaffold will stay in place as long as we need to complete the work.  We had just paid £1000 deposit for the chimney flues and were amazed when the stove company returned it immediately. We also think we are probably the last people in the country to have our phone line reactivated so we now have broadband which we think we are really going to need in the coming months.

The first week has been interesting.  It’s funny how you get used to things after a while.  The first days of not being able to go out unless it’s for food or exercise felt really strange.  People are getting better at social distancing and Tesco’s has calmed down a little.  We may moan about the hold up to our renovations but we are well aware that we are truly fortunate.  We are so lucky to live in a beautiful part of the country in a small town beside the sea.  We have plenty of space in our house, garden and in the town, especially the glorious expanse of beach and sea.  On top of that the sun has been shining for almost a week non-stop.  We realise life has not been easy for a lot of people and have nothing but admiration for all those working in the NHS and all key workers who are keeping things going for all of us.

Well what a month this has been.  We were really excited about posting this blog two weeks ago as we wanted to share the progress on the house.  Now as we write it all seems so unimportant and trivial in the midst of what we face now.  That said, we have seen a number of positives emerge as people seem to be communicating from afar with more frequency than before.

To cap it all Gary at The Hat is doing his best to stay afloat.  He’s offering a home delivery service of his finest beers and ciders.  Needless to say we are going to do our best to help him stay in business and to be there for us when this whole mess is finished.  We also vowed to have 2 takeaways a week to help the restaurants to get over the crisis.  Many started to offer but new restrictions and regulations mean that there are only one or two offering home delivery. 

So, the world is totally stuffed, we’re living in a building site and it’s all going to get worse before it gets better.  However, we’re counting our blessings.  So far our family is fit and well, we have a large beautiful house to live in, the garden is blossoming, our friends stuck overseas are so far OK, we’re not self-isolating in a tiny rented flat in a big city and this morning we noticed that Phileas had a new girl-friend. 

Life goes on – just not as we know it!  Stay safe.

Spinning around

Do any of you remember Saturday Night at The London Palladium?  They nearly always had a variety act who would impress the audience by keeping multiple plates spinning on cane sticks.  The more plates he could spin before they fell off the more the audience clapped.  Well, that’s how we feel, spinning plates replaced by managing plasterers, plumbers, builders, sparkies, chippys etc etc etc…..phew!

Talking of variety acts, we went to the Cinderella Panto in Seaton…..oh yes we did!  It was a delightful evening and featured all the things you expect – ugly sisters to boo and hiss at, obviously two men in drag, cheesy slapstick routines, lots of kids singing and dancing and some great performances from the enthusiastic local cast.  The show was hardly likely to make The West End but it was great to see average looking people, in all sorts of shapes and sizes plus lots of small children strutting their stuff.  To be fair, one or two were pretty damned good.

We also went up to Gloucester to have a lunch with Neil’s siblings.  As it was about 2hrs drive we multi tasked and hired a van so we could swing by Bradley Stoke and collect the remaining bits of furniture cleared out from Cheryl’s house and flat.  It was a long day but lovely to see June, Roy, Bill, Sue and Bob.  The M5 was kind to us and we managed to get back in time to unload the van and return it that afternoon.

We also had a visit from Leanne and ‘middle aged’ Neil.  Yup, they have a new friend who is now ‘young Neil’ meaning that Leanne’s Neil has been elevated to ‘middle aged Neil’. We knew they were arriving late on the Friday evening, which was the same day as our trip to Gloucester.  We started to worry when it got much later and they didn’t arrive. 

Oops! We had the phones switched to silent night time mode and managed not to hear them knocking at the front door.  They had instructions to let themselves in just in case we were late back from getting the furniture and found the key from the key box but couldn’t get it in the back door as our key was in from the other side.  When we finally thought about checking for messages we found they had gone to find a pub to wait in until we got back.  At least they did us a favour as the pub they found turned out to be a bit of a dud and saves us the bother of checking it out.

It was great to see them and to show them the ‘before’ house as well as some of our plans.  We also had a lovely night out starting with a drink in the Hat and followed by excellent tapas in The Wild Caper.

Phileas is still a regular visitor to the garden. There was quite a racket one day and we watched a turf war going on……luckily Phileas won! ……well we think it was Phileas as it’s quite difficult to tell them apart.

Getting plastered

Our bedroom had an unusual feature of narrow shelves hidden behind ‘secret’ doors which had been covered with wallpaper.  This explained why the previous occupants had placed two enormous wardrobes slap bang in the middle of the wall.  Regular readers will remember this was where we were left with wallpaper hanging off when they took the wardrobes away.

We thought about exposing the shelves and decided to strip off all the damaged wallpaper to see how we could make a feature of them.  We then discovered the house originally had picture rails which sadly were all stripped out.  The plaster on the wall wasn’t in great condition and we finally decided that the size and position of the alcoves was making it impossible to have a sensible layout of bedroom furniture.  They had to go, and we needed a plasterer to cover them up and re-plaster the wall. 

Quite some time passed with several attempts to get plasterers to turn up and quote.  In desperation we searched again and found Pawel the Plasterer who gave us a good price and was available – hurrah!

We had also lined up a guy who can spray paint rooms and decided to give this a try as it can be effective covering over existing wallpaper.  Every wall in the house is papered so if we can avoid the work involved in stripping and remove any risk of pulling off plaster in the process…..winner all around!   We had been prepared to do the decorating ourselves but if the spray man can get it done as fast as he says, and at £120/day, then it’s not worth us getting the rollers dirty.  We got him booked in the start the week after the plasterer and felt pretty pleased that at last we were finally getting somewhere.

Pawel did a great job with the wall and a few days later it had dried out to a pale pink.  We cleared everything out of the bedroom and moved into the spare bedroom.  The day before the painter was due Cheryl glanced up at the wall which had developed a strange dark patch at the top which looked a bit damp – bugger, yet another step backwards!

This was the weekend of Storm Dennis and whilst Seaton escaped the worst of the weather, the combination of wind and constant driving rain had resulted in water getting in around the chimney stack.  We looked carefully at the wall in the spare bedroom – and that too showed a damp patch which was less obvious on the wallpaper.

We cancelled the spray man and moved back into our bedroom.  We need to get scaffolding and work to repair the flashing and possibly repoint both chimneys – another potentially huge unforeseen expense.  Scaffolding will cost around £1500 and as I write we are still waiting for quotes for the repairs.  To say we were a bit pissed off is a massive understatement, especially as we felt that we were getting close to having one finished room.  It’s also another piece of work that will need to join the plate spinning as once the scaffold is up it stays for weeks and will block the driveway so no other workmen can get their vehicles in.

Always look on the bright side

On a more positive note, we have had some progress.  The engineer completed his calculations and sent us some complex drawings which we didn’t really understand.  We were advised by the building firm that although none of our alterations need planning permission, we would need to raise a building control notice as the local council will need to sign off any structural work.  A straightforward online process but an upfront cost of £470, and hopefully that will be enough to cover all the site visits we need.

A week later the head of the building firm returned to mark up walls and calculate final costs for steels and lintels.  He also suggested he may be able to carry out the work in a few weeks time – fingers crossed on that one.

With the possibility that work could start at any time we set about getting rid of the kitchen units we definitely wouldn’t be reusing in the workshop. We don’t like to put anything usable into landfill so thought we would have a go at giving them away but weren’t confident as although it’s a good quality John Lewis kitchen it is a bit dated. We needn’t have worried as just after placing a quick ad offering a range of old units ‘free to collector’ Cheryl’s phone didn’t stop buzzing. A few days later, and the units were gone.

We also took out the diagonal tiled false wall which was behind the AGA and discovered some interesting 1950’s wallpaper.  The kitchen is a bit of a mess but still functional for the time being.  We have to remove the remaining units and worktop on the big wall which is coming down but that will wait until just before the work starts.

The Heat is Off

A decision was finally made about the heating & water system following several changes of mind over whether to get a combi boiler or pressurized system.  We’ve gone for a combi storage boiler – a clever halfway house which should be sufficient to meet our everyday needs plus the few occasions when we have visitors. We don’t need an additional water tank which means we don’t have to give up space in the utility and the door into the greenhouse can stay.  All of which saves cost – just as well given the new found chimney problem. 

Even better we found Matt the plumber who was able to quote promptly and is available at the start of March. We can’t start the structural stuff until the plumbing is complete as it involves repositioning of some radiators so that’s a real bonus.  He also comes with another big bonus.  For the last few years he’s only worked 6 months of the year, preferring to spend 6 months travelling like we did.  So, in a nutshell, he’s not VAT registered……yay, 20% off!

The replacement of the boiler isn’t straightforward as Neil needs to rebuild part of the wall where it will hang.  The old boiler needs to go before this can happen so the installation work will take a few days and mean no heating and hot water until its done and it’s not that warm at the moment.  It’ll remind us both of when we were kids, waking up in the morning with ice on the insides of the windows because we didn’t have central heating.  Luckily the wood burner in the study works so we will have one cosy room even if we do start to pong a bit.

Maybe next month we will have some real progress to report……….

The wheels on the bus……….

Our plan to return early was to be able to kick start the renovations to our new home, aka ‘Moneypit on Sea.’  However it’s difficult to plan things when you can’t do something until you’ve done something else, ‘chicken and egg’ comes to mind or ‘going round and round’ but not going anywhere. 

Before we got back we spent a few days catching up with Alex & Freddy in London and then spent Christmas with Neil’s sister June & family.  Boxing day included a chilly but enjoyable pony trek in The Forest of Dean followed by a family party back at June’s.  On our way to Devon we also met with Neil’s kids and number one grandson for lunch before driving South to finally arrive home.  

It’s the first festive season we’ve had with our family in more than 10 years so whilst the time was brief it was very special.  Thanks to all for taking us in over Christmas at such short notice.  It was great to watch the kids open their presents which is something we have really missed while being away.

Our lovely friends Glyn and Diane who have been keeping an eye on the house while we’ve been away, invited us to join them for dinner on New Year’s Eve in the local steakhouse.  We had a fabulous meal and then they surprised us by bringing a bottle of bubbly for us to crack open on the Esplanade while we watched the fireworks at midnight. For the last 10 years we’ve been on a beach, somewhere, for New Year so that’s a tradition which will continue albeit the fireworks here don’t come close to the zillions of pyrotechnics in Goa.

We spent New Year’s Day riding the Seaton Tramway.  Neil insisted we travelled on the open top deck in the drizzle to ‘enjoy’ the view.  It was lovely looking across the wetlands nature reserve but it was freezing cold so Cheryl insisted they sat inside on the return tram.  We followed that with helping Gary at The Hat use up the last of the beer in the barrel so that he could close down for his long holiday back home in South Africa in January.  It was a fun afternoon as various people popped in to have a beer and chat and after several drinks and snacks too many we meandered home.

Despite some extremely lively weather we’ve been out for a walk most days along the esplanade and up to the viewpoint past the harbour.  It’s a lovely walk and takes about an hour and a bit.  Each day brings a different aspect of the sea and the views depending on the weather. Early in January the rough sea conditions resulted in most of the pebble beach ending up on the esplanade. 

One of our concerns about moving to the coast was the possibility of a ghost town feeling in the winter.  We shouldn’t have worried as we’ve found that Seaton has a lot going on all year round.  There are several good restaurants, pubs and cafes.  Our local community venue, The Gateway, has regular film & picnic nights.  Seaton gets the big releases about a month after they’ve been on general release.  The hall has a stage and full sound system and flexible seating arrangements.  We’ve been to one film and a quiz night and have already booked for more as well as The Zoots for a live sixties & seventies music event in March.

Renovation update

Regular readers will recall that the purchase of the house in the summer dragged on and on, leaving us with about 3 weeks between moving in and setting off for Goa.  It was also back in September when it was a lot brighter and warmer.  We spent the first few days back in the house wondering why certain rooms didn’t seem to warm up and then discovered huge gaps here and there where the wind whistled through.  To be fair, it also had something to do with the fact that the boiler is 25-30 years old and is on our list to replace before it dies. Windows were taped, frames were siliconed, vents were sealed and Neil even used some spare carpet to cover the draughty letterbox. 

The previous owners sent us their annual energy consumption for gas and electricity during the sale process and we assumed the house was just expensive to heat because its old and big.  Turns out their bills were huge because they had no loft insulation, they ran a gas guzzling AGA and the house had more draughts than Wetherspoons.

Not only were the previous occupants happy to live in a cold draughty house we’ve also learnt that they were not well liked.  Several neighbours have had a run in with them over a number of things and we’ve even had a quote from somebody who also did work for them – ‘never again’ he said! I wonder what they are saying about us………..

We are making really slow progress on our plans for the house.  We keep going around in circles about kitchens, bedroom, carpets, knocking down walls and putting up walls.  We are waiting for quotes, drawings and calculations.  We also had to repair 30 metres of 4ft collapsed garden wall, 15m of 6ft wall to take down before it fell down and progress on replacing it with fencing has been delayed due to the constant high winds.  As I write this we have fencing halfway and the handyman has gone AWOL as he had other work booked in.  We think he will be back in two weeks to finish but stormy weather is set to continue.  So far this has been £3k not in the budget.

There have been some achievements.  Ten 80ft and potentially dangerous trees have been taken down.  This took 3 days to complete and was amazing to watch.  The guys abseiled up and down whilst taking the trees out section by section.  Not sure the locals enjoyed the restrictions on traffic along the lane, but near neighbours have all commented on their improved light levels.  Another £3k not in the budget!

We now have enormous piles……..of chopped logs stacked ready to be sawn and split.  This leaves us with another decision….which log burner to buy?.  That can wait until autumn as the wood will take at least a year to season in Neil’s new log store.  He thinks we now have enough wood to keep us going until they carry him out in his own wooden box!  We also have several large mounds of wood chips in the garden which have to fester for six months before we spread them.

As mentioned previously we inherited a gas AGA, and we’re not big AGA fans (sorry to those of you who love them).  Although people pay thousands for one of these beasts, the second hand sales market is really difficult as the only buyers seem to be companies who recondition them and sell on for a massive profit.  Eventually we secured a deal and it was finally gone.  It took nearly 4 hours for two men to disconnect, dismantle and remove it.

After several weeks, and a number of different options we have a kitchen design that works.  We also have a fitter we want to use.  However, we can’t start the kitchen until the structural walls are down which means we can’t schedule the very, very busy kitchen fitter until we have dates for the walls and we can’t do any of that until we select the builder.  We think we’re there but we are awaiting prices.  He comes very recommended but we know he’s not cheap so we have to wait for him to agree with the structural engineer about RSJ’s etc before he can price. 

We also need a new boiler as the existing one is probably older than Neil!  However, it sits in a narrow alcove which will need to be filled in before a new bigger one can be fitted. Can’t have a new boiler until we remove the old boiler, build the wall, let it go off, then fit the new boiler.  Don’t want to do that in February unless we can forecast 15C for a week or so. 

It’s been quite a frustrating month as we seem to be endlessly waiting for completed drawings, calculations for structural work and tradesmen to turn up and quote for jobs.  It’s all complicated by all the most recommended ones being busy with enough work for the next 3 months.  We were hoping to have an idea of when we could get started but that seems a long way off now.

Meanwhile, Neil is getting used to lugging, chopping and splitting and Cheryl is getting used to barrowing and stacking.  We’re using muscles we didn’t know we had.

One final thing, we have a new pet who is a regular visitor to the garden.

Flying home for Christmas

Here’s the big news.  We’re cutting our trip short, yes, no more Christmas Day on the beach (first in 11 years), no more lazing on a sunbed and no more sundowners.  We will explain later, but first a round up of the latest goings on from Goa. 

This year has seen one major difference to previous trips.  Over the years we’ve come to know lots of people who are possibly not coming back, ever.  It seems that several regulars are suffering the usual ailments associated with old age…….bad backs, the Big C and dodgy tickers.  Then, to cap it all, Tony and Brenda had to fly off to Thailand at short notice as Tony’s brother was taken seriously ill.  We wouldn’t say it’s depressing as life moves on and nothing stays the same. 

It was time for a boat trip accompanied by Connie, Hugh, Fred ‘n Betty and Yvonne ‘n John.  What a lovely day, nice breeze, a couple of dolphins did eventually come and see us and the food:  king prawns to start, kingfish for main and fruit salad swimming in Honeybee (local brandy) were delicious.  You can’t knock a 5hr boat trip with fabulous scenery, wildlife, unlimited beers and spirits with superb food and all for £12……maybe we should go again?

For a first, at least as far as we can remember, we had rain in December……shock, horror!  It wasn’t much but yet another cyclone out in the Arabian Sea brought us some rain and a few cloudy days.  It just gave a nice cool spell and didn’t stop us going into the pool.  We don’t care what Trumpy says, the world’s climate is changing and it’s changing fast.

Talking of politics……the UK had an election on December 12th.  It’s not the first time we’ve been away from home for polling day.  We were marooned in Thailand in 2010 owing to that pesky ash cloud and remembered watching the BBC election results program whilst having our morning tea.  This time we thought it would be good to have breakfast out and watch the results coming in on a big screen.  We were hoping to have a few people join us but, as the exit polls suggested there would be only one result, most people went to the beach.  Being 5.5 hours ahead of the UK we got some of the very earliest results.   We now have a Government with teeth for the first time in more than 10 years.  Things can finally happen instead of the endless torture of being held in limbo with a constipated parliament unable to pass a motion.  Worth celebrating with a Kingfisher at 10.00am!

We used to be indecisive…….

Time to explain why we’ve decided to go back early this year.  You may have picked up from previous entries that things just haven’t been the same this year in Benaulim.  There’s usually something every year in Goa which annoys or irritates but not enough to outweigh the positives.  So, what’s so different this year, we hear you say?  It’s the major event for us this year, and it’s the fact we bought a house.  It keeps calling to us to get back to make it into our home.  

We thought we could spend our time in Goa looking over the floor plans, take our time over deciding what we really wanted to do with the help of some internet research, email the changes back to the UK and wait for the next version of plans to be sent back for approval.  It was almost a good plan until we realised just how sh*te the internet infrastructure has become in India (the worlds next superpower my ar*e!!!!!).  The internet had two speeds – slow and stop.  Guess you all remember the original dial up internet?  Do you remember trying to upload email attachments?   Do you love watching that turning circle just turning and turning?  Yup, as enjoyable as pulling teeth without anesthetic.  

The uncomfortable weather didn’t help as some days it wasn’t pleasant to go out to take a break when the internet was playing up.  Some of you will be aware of Neil’s attention span (what attention span?) and boredom threshold (how low can you go?). You will quickly work out that it didn’t take long for us to reach the conclusion that we needed to cut our losses and go home.  We would have liked to stay until just after New Year, but our only options to change flights were before Christmas or only a week before our planned return.  

Last days

Decision made and flights rebooked we concentrated on doing all the things we enjoy and the weeks slipped by fast.  We had dinner with old friends Jeff and Mary and worked out a routine to fit in all our favourite restaurants.  Aditya and Priti invited us to their home along with other neighbours Caroline and Jude for a wonderful evening of dinner and drinks on their terrace which overlooks the pool.  We brought a Christmas pudding as a present and Aditya used his newly found woodworking skills to make us a lovely tea light holder for our new house.

Derek and Cathy discovered that the Hyatt was once again doing Sunday Brunch.  Yes, this is the Hyatt where, a couple of years ago, Neil did the classic prat fall after consuming a few too many sherbets whilst climbing into a tuk tuk for the journey home.  That event produced a nasty cut to his head as he hit the floor, and he promised no repeats!!   We had a wonderful day with Hugh and Connie and Derek and Cathy.  The food was endless and delicious, the Australian wines a bonus after Indian wines and the Indian bubbly surprisingly good.  The location was right on the beach and to cap it all we had no further prat falls from anyone!

We followed that with one final boat trip, this time on our own.  Boat trips are great fun as you do tend to chat with friends.  However, this means that you tend to miss the wonderful surroundings.  This time we wanted to be alone to just ‘enjoy’.  We were not disappointed.

Time was running out so we took every opportunity to see the sunset and have a few sundowners before our last few Vindaloos at Jacks Corner.  Then we discovered that, just in time, our favourite pizza joint, Luna, was about to open.  There were the usual ‘first night opening’ challenges but we have become used to Luna providing what we call entertainment whilst others might call it frustration.

Wednesday 18th finally came, time to leave and head to Delhi for our flight home next day.  It’s been an unusual trip this year not least of all because we decided to head home early.  Benaulim has changed so we will not be back next year, the first time in around 8 years but as we often say, life moves on, and we have other priorities in our lives now plus new places to visit and maybe a few places to re-visit.  We have a few ideas of what we might do but they are ‘on a need to know basis’!  Suffice it to say, Goa has been good to us when we didn’t have a house to live in but it’s time to move on.

The journey home went well and we emerged into Angel Tube Station to be greeted by a rousing chorus of Ding Dong Merrily on High by a group of extremely good carol singers. 

Merry Christmas Everyone.

Back in the old routine

As usual it took us quite a while to get over the journey from the UK.  It’s a combination of the journey duration, the heat and the horrific humidity which leaves us washed out.  We know that November is one of the hottest months here but the last 2 to 3 years have been ultra-hot and humid.  We had already decided before we got here that this would be our last trip to Goa before Christmas preferring to come instead in January.  The weather we experienced on arrival just cemented our thoughts that this is not a pleasant time to be here. 

It hasn’t been an insurmountable problem.  The cyclones meant that the shacks were not open and, as we had floor plans to look at for the house, changes to consider and decisions to be made, spending the time indoors under a fan just made more sense.  It’s very sad for the shack owners that have such a short window in which to make a living.  Combined with the bad weather and the incompetent Goan licencing authorities many of the shacks were still not completed by the start of December…..unheard of in the past.

We’ve continued to use the pool and spend less time on the beach this trip.  The weight loss has continued at a slower pace as more people arrive.  It would have been more but when a large bottle of kingfisher costs just over a £1 and a large G&T costs the same it does make the routine less effective than it should be.  It’s also a very sociable place so it’s very difficult to go out for dinner and not meet someone a have a ‘cheeky one’ with!

Talking of ‘cheeky one’, this phrase originated from Tony, AKA Tony and Brenda.  They contacted us to say that this year they were arriving late into Mumbai which would have meant arriving in Benaulim in the early hours, not a good time to wake up your landlord.  No problem we said, don’t stay in Mumbai, it’s very expensive plus you’ll have taxis to pay for.  Get the late flight and we’ll leave the key under the mat and you can stay with us.  So, we had some unplanned visitors for a couple of nights whilst they cleaned their own place plus Tony bought a bottle of Honeybee for that bedtime ‘cheeky one’!  It was great to have them stay.

The climate hasn’t stopped us doing lots of the usual things that make this place such a treat to be in.  Sundowners to watch the sunset with a few friends followed by a visit to Jack’s Corner for the best vindaloo in town.  We have too many good restaurants to visit making it very difficult sometimes to walk past as the friendly waiters call out ‘good evening sir, hello madam, how are you?’

We took a bus ride into Margao to visit the dentist, the bank, the optician and to do some shopping that you can’t really do in Benaulim.  The bus fares have gone up, outrageous, 50%, making the 20 minutes ride in the bus that hasn’t seen a service in the last 20 years cost a whole 15p each.  We’ve been coming to Goa for around 15 years and Margao is still a noisy, dusty dump of a town!  Nothing seems to have changed which in some ways is actually quite quaint.  Whilst waiting for the bus back you can still buy oranges from the hawkers walking up and down or nip into a grubby establishment to buy delicious samosas for 10p.  You can get your shoes and bags mended by the old cobblers sitting on the floor in the shade and using their feet to hold things whilst they stitch with their hands….all absolutely timeless.  Romanticism apart, it’s still a shithole!

We celebrated Cheryl’s birthday with a trip to Martin’s Corner with John and Yvonne.  Margarita for Cheryl and a beer tower for John and Neil.  Excellent Goan food some of which we can’t find anywhere else including tongue roast.  To round it off, Cheryl and Yvonne managed to consume a large portion of chocolate brownie & ice cream each.  Bill paid, it was then a delightful 90 minute walk back along the beach. 

We had forgotten how beautiful this stretch of the coast was.  It’s very quiet with hardly any shacks and you can see enormous expanses of deserted sands.  Benaulim used to have some quiet stretches like this when we first came to Goa on normal holidays around 15 years ago. 

Sadly, this has all changed now with barely 5 metres between shacks from one beach head to another.  It’s wall to wall sunbeds and some shacks have started pumping out the music – despite a noticeable fall in tourist numbers.

We strolled back to Benaulim just in time for a sundowner, how convenient was that?  The birthday finished with a trip to Savios for a light dinner of homemade liver pate, crispy roti and a bottle of Cabernet.  We did sleep well.

Gone with the wind

Travel to Goa, first days and things seem different this time

We needed to be at the airport no later than 8am so rather than get up at silly o’clock we paid the princely sum of £30, yes that’s £30, for a very comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room in the Premier Inn.   This is Heathrow and we were a captive audience, so we were prepared to have to pay heavily for both food and drinks.  Not so!  The food was of a very good standard, not expensive, beers about high street London prices and a bottle of quaffable wine for less than £15.  What a start to the trip.

We chose the brisk walk in the chilly morning air to the next bus stop for the service for Terminal 5 and within 20 minutes we were there.  It also turned out to be a free Heathrow Airport bus….Result!  (rubs hands together Fagan style).  Check in was slick and came with a twist.  The guy at the check in desk surprised Neil by congratulating him on 20 years of being an BA Executive Club Member.  He also confirmed that ‘no, Sir,  it does not come with a free upgrade to First Class.’  Hey, don’t ask don’t get! 

We shot through security and made it the lounge.  Recent experiences of BA lounges haven’t been particularly great, but our good fortune continued.  It was quiet, plenty of seating and once we found ‘the main man’ we were handed a glass of bubbly each.  Yes, we know, it’s 8am but it has to be done. 

Boarding was seamless and we were greeted by some extremely friendly and cheery cabin crew who were very keen to supply us with more of the fizzy stuff, twice actually, plus yet another ‘congratulations Mr. Dyke’. 

The flight out to Mumbai went smoothly after an initial section of turbulence.  Food and drinks very good and whilst Cheryl enjoyed a couple of films Neil got stuck into quite an assortment of music genres. A few hours sleep before it was time for an Indian breakfast snack, landing, speedy immigration and baggage collection.

This is where the fun stopped

We knew it would as there is absolutely no way that you can make the journey from London to Goa without going through a quite tiresome period between flights.  Some people would find their plane arriving early in Mumbai very appealing.  All it did for us was extend the time we had to sit around waiting for our connecting flight 5 hours later.  No swanky lounge here so it was a case of grin and bear it.  However, it was made a tad more pleasant by the always happy to please BA cabin crew who had stocked us up with beers, wine and snacks before we left the plane. 

Anyway, time to check in, board the flight and settle down to 45 minutes of listening to an obnoxious screaming brat sat around 5 rows behind us.  Indians are usually very tolerant of whingeing sprogs.  However, even our fellow domestic passengers seemed amazed at the volume of the wailing and gnashing of teeth that could emanate from such a small person who was actually old enough to be told ‘enough, no more’! 

Fortunately, the flight was short which is more than we can say about the time taken to deliver our bags to arrivals.  Goa airport is quite small with around 4 luggage belts.  There were no other planes arriving so we were the only ones waiting for our cases.  It took more than 1hr for us and everyone else to collect our belongings.  India, the next world super power!! 

We arrived in Benaulim around 8am and nothing seemed to have changed.  We got the keys from security to what we had previously considered to be our home.  After all, this had been the place we spent 3 months a year for the last few years – the longest time we ever stayed anywhere since we began travelling.  Now we have a real one where we’ll spend much longer, and we were missing it already.

Feeling really tired after the long journey we set about getting unpacked, the podder man came around on his bike squeezing his hooter so we bought some delicious bread known locally as bakri.   It makes such fabulous crunchy toast that deserves lashings of butter…….mmmmm……so good with a cup of tea.

That morning we shopped for essentials, caught up with John and Yvonne who had been here around a week and started to catch up with friends and locals.  It seemed to be a constant session of handshaking and hugging and ‘hi, how are you’? and ‘When did you arrive’?

Our first dinner was in Hideout – a warm welcome from the staff we’ve known for years and excellent curry with beers and G&Ts for under £15.  Rubs hands together again?  

Early days

The day after we arrived turned out to be the start of Cyclone Kyarr.  It brought heavy rain and strong winds and made us very glad that we arrived the day before as the landing, if there was one, would have been very dodgy.  People working down on the beach putting up shacks took video of twisters and the heavy seas.  Sadly, some of those shacks that had stolen a march on the others by erecting them before the licences were issued got totally trashed by the strong winds and had to start again. 

The inclement weather lasted 4 to 5 days but, hey, it’s warm rain!!  A week later Cyclone Maha arrived and delivered cloud and some rain but without the intensity of Kyarr.  It was actually quite pleasant, the clouds kept the temperature down to a manageable 30-31C and the rain was sporadic.

On our arrival Neil started to explore the possibilities of watching the Rugby World Cup.  He quickly discovered that Brilliant Bar had a large TV and the right channel so our first Saturday we sat down at lunchtime to watch England destroy New Zealand.  Then on Sunday it was back to give our support to Wales in their endeavor to make it an all British final.  Sadly, it was not to be as South Africa did to Wales what England had done to The Kiwis the day before.  They had no answer to the power and sheer aggression of the SA pack.

It has become traditional where we stay, in Micon Development, that some of the western yummy mummies bring together many of the little kids from around to celebrate Halloween.  We love to participate and were given signs to put on our walls to show the kids that we’re open for a trick or treat.  The mums also provide bags of sweets and pens to hand out.  It’s great fun, some of the kids are so small and the mums put together some amazing outfits using their imagination and skills.  It’s really good fun for the kids and must teach them so much as they help mum put their costumes together. 

We had an invite to a small party to celebrate Diwali.  Karam, the owner of C5 restaurant, is Nepali and wanted us to share in his celebration.  He closed the restaurant for the afternoon and served up some excellent traditional Nepali treats.  He refused to let us pay for our food so we did at least make sure we paid for our beers and gins.  It was a really great way to continue our start back in Benaulim.

The following weekend we got together again to watch Wales play in the 3rd place play off.  Once again, it was bad news for them as NZ were just too powerful.  Next day was the final, there was a big crowd in Brilliant considering it was so early in the season, and we came together to watch England capitulate to an awesome South African performance.  England had no chance and no excuse.  We were crumpled.

Something’s not quite right

Slowly we began to realise that there was one fundamental difference in Benaulim.  Every season for as long as have been coming here itinerant workers from Karnataka make the long journey to Goa to sell tourist tat.  Whilst we don’t like their constant ‘yes, shopping madam’ or ‘Come see my shop’ they provide colour on the main street through the village.  Some of them wear the traditional clothing of the Lamani Tribe which is quite stunning.  We don’t like to take photos of them as we see it as imposing, but you can see from the library photos just how beautiful the costumes are.

We arrived early in the morning, so on our first day we weren’t surprised to see the roadside stalls hadn’t set out their colourful wares.  When this continued for a few days we thought it was just early season and they would set up soon.  Anyway, The Lamani were missing and the main street looked like a depressing shanty town as all their roadside shacks were just covered in blue tarps.

After a few days we began to get some sort of picture on the dispute between The Lamani people and the local Goans.  We’re not sure who or what is behind it but, in a nutshell, The Lamani people are no longer welcome in Benaulim.  It appears that it’s only happening in Benaulim, not throughout Goa so we don’t think we’ll ever get to the bottom of it. 

Suffice it to say, it makes the street look very sad and many people coming to this village for the first time will probably not come back so, long term, we think this might backfire on the locals.  Many people think that The Goans are lovely people, very friendly and extremely helpful.  We agree, there are some just like that.  However, over the years we’ve come to think that there is a nasty undercurrent and a number are hotheaded, greedy and only nice to you if you are giving them money for something.  Francis, our favourite shack owner, has also been shafted this season and people he called friends and distant family have connived to stuff him. 

Hey ho, we’ll just get on with our lives here, enjoy the excellent food, the beach will become beautiful again when the shacks are up, and old friends arrive daily making life here very, very good.  We’re back in the pool on a daily basis, Cheryl swimming over 500m a day and Neil around 800m.  It’s hot here so along with the exercise and the suppressed appetite the scales are beginning to go in the right direction.  It is a great place, you get to drink beer, eat delicious healthy freshly cooked food and salads and still lose weight……can it get any better?

One small step for Man……….….. & Van

Finally, the big day came, September 19th 2019.   The sun shone brightly and Mike (aka Man With Van, plus mate) came to load up with our few belongings and bits of furniture…..one single garage full!  We drove on ahead to Devon expecting to find the house empty as the vendors had told us the week previously that they would be out by the night before.  As we turned into the drive we were greeted by a number of removal men still loading the van, the vendors pottering around and their stressed cleaner losing the battle to clean up behind furniture which hadn’t been moved for over twenty years.  This was Thursday and they had been loading the van since Monday! They had managed to clear most things from the house, but the garage & sheds were still full.

The previous owners, who are in their late eighties, were very apologetic that they hadn’t moved out in time and sadly admitted that as they removed one of their massive wardrobes from the bedroom a large piece of wallpaper peeled itself off the wall.  It did look bad, but we saw the funny side as we didn’t like it anyway and it wasn’t too difficult to stick it back up again temporarily.

Neil asked their removal men to shift the Luton van they were using to shuttle stuff from the house to the much larger lorry parked in a wider street nearby so our men could move their Luton van in to unload.  ‘How many vans have you got?’ he asked and was totally bemused when Neil said ‘one!’  The guy must have repeated his question three times before he finally accepted that we did have just ‘one!’

Amongst the chaos we got a visit from Alistair, the estate agent who sold the house to us, and he came with a lovely hamper full of local produce……a very nice touch.   We finally got their men out.  Our men in & out in less than an hour including a stop for tea & biscuits.  Their men back in to finish clearing the outbuildings and we got the vendors to stop hovering over us and focus on their remaining packing.  Finally a few hours later we were alone in our new home to start our unpacking…..phew!

It wasn’t long before it was time to start the process of getting to know people.  We started with The Hat for a couple of beers.  It’s run by Gary, a South African, and it’s a quirky micropub located in an old butcher’s shop.  The original tiles are still on the wall and the seating is at shared high tables.  They serve local craft beers, ciders and a selection of gins.  They have a few snacks, and mobile phones should be on silent.  If you want to make a call you go outside.  Orders are taken at your table and you have a hand written tab.   We ended our first evening in of the two local Indian restaurants.  It wasn’t bad at all. We think we’re going to like this town but, hey, it’s TBL if we don’t!

The next few days were spent getting used to the new place and deciding where to put the few things we brought with us.  We knew the house was big, but without all the previous clutter we could see just how big it is, and what a contrast to the past ten years spending our summers living in a touring caravan.  The empty rooms looked sad with faded patches where pictures had hung for years and numerous wires hanging out where the wall lights had been taken out.

Our second evening was spent with Glyn & Diane who are heavily involved in the town Twinning Association.  We met in the sunshine for a few drinks outside The Vaults, a pub overlooking the Esplanade, followed by dinner in the Malthouse, an independent Pub in the town.  We saw them again at the Twinning Association Quiz night the following week.  We’ve joined and hope to participate in the next visit to Thury Harcourt in Normandy which should take place in Spring 2020.

We had our first visitors at the weekend. Neil’s brother Bill and his wife Sue travelled from London and brought us some beautiful glasses as a house warming present.  The weather cleared up enough for a short walk along the esplanade and cliff gardens to see the view across the bay. We headed into town for a few drinks in The Hat followed by dinner in The Caper which serves Tapas from around the World.

Towards the end of their visit we made more discoveries about the house.  Bill and Neil went up into the loft and came down with some very old mirrors which we think were the originals from the bathroom and bedrooms, maybe going back to the 1920’s and we’re going to try and restore them.  The second discovery was less welcome.  There was absolutely no loft insulation at all.  The previous owner had the wall cavities filled and part boarded the loft but bizarrely omitted the loft insulation!!  Luckily we found a great handyman and a few days later with a few trips to Homebase and a delivery from B&Q we were deboarded and fully insulated to the current recommended level of 270mm, which is pretty thick. Neil was absolutely knackered from all the trips up and down the stairs carrying bales of insulation up and sheets of flooring down.

Week two was focused on getting jobs done – gutters cleaned, dusk to dawn light switch fitted for porch and driveway lights, electrics safety check and LED bulbs installed.  Do the remaining changes of address which only allow you to do once you have moved.  Opening a joint bank account for the bills, signing up with utilities, council tax and setting up all the direct debits done.  Meeting the neighbours and discovering no one else is from Devon! Participating in Fiverfest where the local independent shops had great special offers for a fiver all over town to encourage every adult to spend a fiver a week.

We got to know the gardener, Mark, and decided to keep him on over the Winter to keep the garden under control while we are away.  We had the local building firm in to discuss options for remodeling & getting scale drawings done so we can decide exactly what is possible and we want to do.  We met a kitchen fitter and got some initial designs done so we can start planning & budgeting.  We managed to get some plumbers in to quote for replacing the 20+ year old boiler with a more efficient one.  Lastly, a couple of assessments from a tree surgeon as a few of the trees have become way too big and need to be cut back or taken out completely.  Fortunately, all were assessed as being OK to deal with when we get back in the Spring.

Glyn & Diane very kindly agreed to look in on the house while we are away and met us on Friday to have a look around and get a set of keys.  We went for an excellent meal in the local steakhouse, The Shed, followed by drinks in The Clarence which had pretty good live music.

Week three was a little calmer and gave us more time to get to know the house and think about how we would like to change it.  We do want it to have a more open plan feel and to tone down the décor whilst being sympathetic to the 1928 character of the building.  The vendors did leave an enticing bundle of original deeds and documents which we haven’t had time to look through and we’re looking forward to discovering its history and its previous owners. 

Alex & Freddy managed a quick visit during our last weekend.  We had a long walk around the town, along the esplanade to Axmouth Harbour and back ending with tea, cakes & a Vietnamese coffee in The Hideaway Café overlooking the beach. Drinks in The Hat followed by dinner in The Caper on Saturday night. We took the stunning coastal walk from Seaton to Beer on Sunday and enjoyed a cream tea in the late September sunshine on the beach.

Our last week and a surprise visit from John & Yvonne, friends we met in Goa.  They had booked a glass blowing course in Beer and suggested we meet up for dinner.  Another evening of drinks in The Hat followed by dinner in The Malthouse.  A great evening and a good chance to catch up before we meet again in Goa.

Our last evening in Seaton was spent with Glyn & Diane, starting with, yes you guessed it, drinks in The Hat.  We ate in the other Indian, Monsoon which is BYO, and had better food than the other one in town.  It felt really sad to say goodbye to Glyn & Diane. Thanks both for welcoming us to Seaton and helping us settle in.

Saturday morning and it was time to pack our bags & get the house ready for the winter.  Our three weeks went by in a flash and we didn’t want to leave.  Seaton is a lovely place, its sleepy and the pace of life is slow, but everyone seems friendly.  We’re looking forward to the usual fun in Goa, but we’re also looking forward to going back to the house and making it our home.

The journey to Goa always starts with saying goodbyes to friends and family.  We spent a couple of nights in Bristol with Paul, Miranda and number one grandson.  He’s pretty stable on his feet now and such a happy little soul.  We will miss him a lot while we are away and look forward to photos and videos from his proud parents while we are away.

Next stop Gloucester for two nights with Roy & June.  June is recovering from a knee replacement and gradually improved while we were staying.  We hope to see her running around by the time we get back!

On to London by train where we had dinner with Leanne & Neil on our first night.  We stayed with Alex & Freddy and on the Friday attended a very special ceremony in the Guildhall.  Alex was granted Freedom of the City of London and is now entitled to drive his sheep across London Bridge! He was invited to become a member of the Worshipful Company of Information Technologists a couple of years ago and this was the formal ceremony to make him a Freeman. We had an interesting and informative  talk on the history of Freemen (and women) and were shown certificates and signatures of many previous and current holders.  Next stop was to the pub with friends to celebrate followed by excellent food in their local Italian restaurant. 

It was soon time to head to Heathrow for our flight to Goa via Mumbai.  We wonder if Benaulim has seen any changes this year?

Moving on

Since the last posting we’ve been treading water to some extent.  Moving house for many people can be quite stressful as you don’t realise how much ‘stuff’ you’ve collected until you start to pack things.  As we haven’t had a formal home for 11 years for us it was easy.  We don’t have many personal possessions like clothes, nick-nacks and furniture……our world fits into a single garage with room to spare. 

In August we had a visit from Tony and Brenda which was great fun, hey, it always is when we get together.  They had never visited Bristol before, so it felt quite strange for us being tourists in our own town.  We caught the bus and wandered around the centre, listened to the choir practicing in Bristol Cathedral, visited Cheryl’s old school and Bristol Central Library where the little swot spent much of her time, walked over the famous Clifton Suspension Bridge and had a fine lunch in The Commercial Rooms on historic Corn Street.  Like a lot of people, we live on the outskirts of town and rarely explore the city centre these days so we discovered things in hometown Bristol that we didn’t know existed…………..and now we’re leaving!

We took another trip down to Seaton to visit the house again and get some instructions on how the heating works, how to operate the AGA and where various switches were.  We had great weather making this another BBQ trip, superb walking along the coastal path and enjoying the masses of blackberries that we have this year.  On the way home we dropped the caravan off at the new storage compound which will be its new home for the winter. It was meant to be a quick stop but the owner, a delightful old boy with a Devon accent as thick as clotted cream definitely wanted to chat so an hour and a half later we were on our way.

We had another ‘sibling lunch’ with Neil’s brothers and sisters and their partners.  Whilst the food was mediocre the company was superb.  We met in the historic Highwayman Inn that Neil frequented when he was in his late teens.  In those days if you wanted to impress a girl this was one of the country pubs you went to. 

It was also time to get all things medical done before we move.  We won’t have much time in Devon so getting eyes tested, an MOT at the doctors, flu and pneumonia jabs for the old pensioner (AKA Neil).  We’ve also started the process of changing our address on memberships and less important things.  Do you know how many things you have to change?  We have at least 50!!   If there is one good reason not to move house it’s the number of addresses you have to change.  To make it all worse, the financial institutions are particularly anal about the process and the timing of the changes.  ‘Jump through this hoop, skip through that hoop and provide your inside leg measurement’ before you can even start the process.  

The final planning for the packing concentrated our minds plus the general logistics of what goes where, when it goes there and the question of will everything fit into the removal van and the car.  They do say that to help stave off dementia keeping the mind alert helps, well moving to a new house certainly ticks that box. 

Just a day before the move we had a visit from our old friends from Sydney.  Chris and Viv were on their annual trip to the UK to visit friends and family.  It was a flying visit as this time Chris only had two weeks, so we really appreciate them fitting us in.  Neil has known Chris since the early 70’s but nothing much has changed other than a little bit less hair and a few extra inches on the waistline.  Weather was amazing, 20C and blazing sunshine which for mid September was quite unusual.  It has been a BBQ summer and who else to have one final al fresco meal with other than a couple of Aussies!  Of course, a few beers were sunk, the wine flowed and the reminiscing brought about lots of laughing. 

This is the final blog entry to bring chapter 11 to a close.  It’s been a different year for us with most of the time spent in the UK focused on finding our new home.  Chapter 12 will follow as soon as we have moved and settled in.  It’s definitely a new phase in our lives and we are looking forward to being in our home and settling into our new community.

Anyone for croquet?

You may remember that back in May we were spending our days walking in The Forest of Dean.  What we didn’t tell you is that we took a couple of days out to go shopping.

We’ve not lived a conventional life since we started that first six month trip back in 2008. Living a nomadic lifestyle split between long winter trips overseas and summer tours of the UK in our caravan has become normal for us.  However, over the last couple of years we’ve spent our time looking at various locations in the UK to buy our first home together.   We looked at coastal towns as we both love being by the sea, as well as various locations mainly in the South West.  We both had our own set of ‘must have requirements’ meaning that compromise was always going to happen. 

One day Cheryl showed Neil a house on Rightmove that took her fancy expecting him to say ‘no, absolutely not, it’s too expensive, it’s a money pit and hadn’t you noticed it’s way too big for two people?’.  He said all of the above but did agree to see it so we booked a viewing and then went again the next day to have another look. 

Well, it’s certainly more than we planned to spend, it probably is a money pit and it’s definitely much too big but we just fell in love with it even though it needs lots of remodelling and modernisation to satisfy our ‘must have requirements’. 

It wasn’t plain sailing through the sales process and several times we thought it was going to fall apart.  First the owners hadn’t found somewhere to move to, and that process took a month.  Then two months later when we went to visit them, they revealed that the first purchase wasn’t in the frame anymore but ‘not to worry, we’ve agreed a price on a house today’!  So, that’s three months gone already.  Then they revealed that the house was the subject of probate and we knew that process could take months.  Fortunately, they agreed to move into rented accommodation if needed.  Then there was another sticky moment when the drain survey revealed one or two potential problems.  Again, the sellers came up trumps and agreed to split the cost of the repairs. 

The house is in Seaton in Devon and it was built in 1928.  It’s a 5 minute walk to the beach, town, pubs, tennis courts, a proper butcher, The Purbeck Coastal Path, gym, theatre/cinema, Seaton Tramway, Jurassic Centre, Wetland Wildlife Trust, in fact, just about everything.  The garden is a whopping 0.75 of an acre with stunning specimen trees planted by the current owners who are nearing 90 years old.  It has several man caves, a garage, conservatory, loggia and a summer house. We also have a proper Croquet Lawn – now all we have to do is buy a croquet set and learn the rules. 

Ah, almost forgot.  It’ll also need furnishing and as we’ve not actually had a traditional home for the last 11 years our entire world fits into a single garage.  This means lots of shopping………. ‘deep joy’ said Neil.  Who cares, we’re excited about knocking down walls, changing the kitchen and installing some bathrooms, excited about putting down some roots, excited about living by the sea and just generally, as you might have worked out, very, very excited. 

We’ve just exchanged contracts and move in mid September.  We have several spare rooms if you want to come and visit, just let us know. 

BBQ Nights

No posts for a while as we’ve just been enjoying the better weather since the boat trip and lots of walking.  We’re around Bristol so we’ve also had some house things to do.

We took a couple of weeks out to go to the south Devon coast in the caravan and did lots and lots of walking.  The coastal path here is stunning as it’s along the famous Jurassic Coast.  The campsite was a short drive to the coast and we found a number of walks towards Beer, Seaton and a particularly long stretch from Seaton to Lyme Regis.  We even got our running shoes on and found a quiet route along country lanes and footpaths from the campsite.  The perfect weather made up for the lousy weather we had on the narrow boat, 10 nights, 10 BBQ’s and 10 sunsets from the wonderful west facing view across open countryside from our campsite.

Leaving Devon on the day before School Holidays started Neil decided we should set off early and, as we were headed North we should miss most of the traffic.  How wrong could he be?  He couldn’t predict the fuel spillage which shut the M5 Northbound just before Taunton.  Google maps helpfully showed us that the detour route on the A38 was solid and suggested a great cut through using country lanes.  Unfortunately, with a caravan on tow we accepted our fate and crawled along with the rest of the traffic.  We eventually made it back onto the M5 and looked for the nearest services for a much needed comfort break.  Unfortunately again, this was the plan for the rest of the delayed traffic and the slip road to the services was blocked with waiting vehicles.  It was the same at each of the services we reluctantly had to pass by.  In the end a less than 2 hour journey turned into over 4 tortuous hours with bladders bursting.

The next week we headed to June’s for a welcome party.  Neil’s niece, Lisa, arrived from Melbourne for 4 weeks visiting family and friends that she hadn’t seen for 5 years.  We stayed with her family in Australia 2 years ago but it was great to see her again surrounded by her mum and dad and 2 sisters.  It was a great evening with yet another BBQ on the hottest day of the year so far!

Then we headed up to Cheshire to visit Leanne and young Neil where, oooo surprise, we had a BBQ……this time in the p***ing down rain.  Thank you for the covered area outside the house.  Leanne announced that she had two wasps nests under the facia boards at the front of the house.  Neil realised that they could be reached from the bedroom windows so at dusk the two Neils sprayed the nests.  The following morning there were no wasps flying in and out.  When Leanne looked out through the downstairs window there was carnage!!  Out on the terrace there were two huge piles of dead wasps…….result.

Sunday arrived and Cheryl and Leanne headed off to Champneys Springs Health Spa for a celebratory girls session with Lisa.  11 ladies (Neil used that term lightly) armed with their body weight in Prosecco and snacks descended on the hotel for 2 days of pampering, exercise, eating, drinking and laughing.  They had a hoot.

Watch out for the next blog issue, we hope to have big news!

Wet Wet Wet

After our week in Scandinavia we arrived back in the UK to have 2 weeks on the narrow boat with Gail.  Starting from Gayton Marina in Northamptonshire we headed along the Grand Union and Oxford Canals towards Oxford.  We chose the first two weeks in June and have been used to having pretty good weather for our annual trip over the last few years but this year our luck ran out.  We did manage a BBQ on the first night but after that we endured day after day of a cold wind and driving rain and showers.  Midway through the second week Neil had set up the table and chairs for a second BBQ only for the cloud and rain to come from nowhere and bring us back indoors.  Neil wasn’t going to be beaten.  The wind was in the right direction so he closed the roof hatch but left the door into the cabin open, he dragged the BBQ to the entrance and cooked our dinner from the inside! 

On the way to Oxford we came across a teepee in the middle of nowhere which had a woodfired hot tub outside.  That looks perfect we thought.  On the return journey, during one of our coldest and wettest days Neil shouted to Cheryl and Gail to come out of the cabin, bring the camera and come and take a look.  Sitting in the steaming hot tub were a young couple drinking beer.  Neil gesticulated to them that he had respect for their decision to face the elements in the tub and they shouted back that they were ‘on honeymoon from Australia’!

Weather aside, the Oxford canal is quite lovely with open views of the countryside, farm animals and wildlife including kingfishers, foxes, deer, swans and kites.  Boaters generally are friendly people always passing the time of day.  The inclement weather seemed to encourage people to be more friendly and jokier about the persistent rain.  As he passed a woman waiting to take her boat into a lock Neil commented to her that he liked her woolly hat that had long sides that looked like long droopy ears.  She laughed and shouted back that ‘at least I didn’t have to do my hair this morning’.  Neil removed his woolly hat and shouted ‘I never have to do my hair’!  She laughed again.  There were lots of jokes that we were a week away from the midsummer solstice but despite the crappy weather we can’t wait for next year!

Boat trip over it was time to travel back to Bristol to move into Cheryl’s house, which is also up for sale, and set up home yet again. We had some time with our fast growing grandson who is now standing up and also to catch up on some paperwork.  Neil sold his last rental property making him a totally homeless person – he’s very grateful that Cheryl took him in.

We were only back in Bristol for a few days before it was time to travel to Gloucester to attend the annual family gathering.  Sadly, not everyone was there but then that would be almost impossible, but we managed to get 24 family members together. 

In complete contrast to the previous two weeks the weather was very kind to us, sunny and 21C and it lent itself to games with water guns.  It wasn’t long before some of the children had shed their wet clothes to just enjoy running around getting even wetter.  Roy performed a magic trick that isn’t really magic but his request for a gullible adult to assist him failed.  No fear, Maisie stepped forward to assist Roy only to get a thorough soaking.  She was a star, brave and stalwart despite the shock.  Neil did the BBQ and the day was fantastic.  Thank you to June and Roy for hosting the event and putting in so much work.

Back to Bristol to host Clive and Karen from Spain.  They were over on a whistle stop tour to do ‘family stuff’ with children and Karen’s mum.  We usually meet up on a camp site but with our 2 weeks on the boat and their family commitments we were only to have an afternoon.  Sunny weather, whoopee, meant we had a BBQ, chat, jokes and compared travel plans for the coming year.  Good to see you guys, let’s try not to leave it quite so long next time and definitely make it more than an afternoon!

Hygge

First task on our return from Florida was to move back into Neil’s house.  It was our home for nearly 6 years before we took the 6 month break which resulted in our travelling lifestyle.  It was strange to be back in familiar surroundings and quite a few memories came back of the ‘normal’ life we led back then.  Working 9 to 5 (always much, much longer), wearing suits, the travelling, PowerPoint (aaarrrggghhh!!!!!) and copious amounts of Corporate B*ll*cks! 

The days before travelling when Cheryl had dark hair and Neil had his old teeth.  

Living in a house was only for a few weeks as we had to clear out the last things that remained and load them into the garage of Cheryl’s rented out coach house.  After almost 16 years Neil’s house was sold and the cash is now in the bank……woooohoooo. 

Back in the caravan for the next few weeks close to the old Severn Bridge and we enjoyed good weather and walks along The Severn Way.  The removal of the Severn Bridge tolls meant that we also went to The Forest of Dean.    We had many days walking along the stunning Wye River Path and Offa’s Dyke Path which runs all the way from Chepstow to North Wales.  He built it more than 1200 years ago and must have had a very good reason to want to keep The Welsh out of Wessex!

Next stop Stanstead Airport to catch our flight to Copenhagen for the drive to Eslov in Sweden.  We were to be babysitting number 1 grandson while mum and dad attend the wedding of one of Paul’s oldest friends.  Eslov is not a big place and we were lucky to find a small guesthouse where we had a 1 bed apartment and a twin room with shared kitchen.  It turned out to be perfect for our needs although the decoration and furniture were quite quirky.  It was a fifteen minute walk to The Castle, the wedding venue, which was surrounded by beautiful gardens and countryside so exploring with the buggy was easy as the roads were very quiet. 

We had a great weekend and dropped the family off in Copenhagen on Monday for them to explore the city before they flew home next day.  We drove on to southern Denmark and the island of Langeland (long island) to visit some friends we met in Goa, Annette and Keld.  They live in the beautiful town of Rudkobing which has many narrow streets of very pretty protected cottages.  We were greeted with a cold beer and a glass of wine before friends of Annette and Keld started to arrive for an evening of pizza and chat.  Keld was so taken by our favourite pizza restaurant in Goa that he made an exact copy of the wood oven in his garden.  His endless supply of pizzas were delicious, the beer and wine flowed, the chat became louder and even louder as we brought to the table a bottle of Laphroaig, an extremely good single malt scotch whisky. 

Annette introduced Cheryl to the concept of Hygge (pronounced huga) which is used in in Denmark and Norway. There is no exact translation into English, but this captures it well – ‘a mood of coziness and comfortable conviviality with feelings of wellness and contentment’.  Our evening was surely cozy and convivial and as the evening became cool the eight of us moved indoors where we sat around the candle lit dining table and continued to laugh and joke into the early hours.  We spent 4 nights with Annette and Keld exploring the beautiful island, eating, cooking and drinking.  Thank you very much A&K, we had a fantastic time and look forward to getting back together in Goa later this year.

Judgement Day

Love it or loathe it?  Either way it’s been a long time since we last visited.  We always felt that America was one of those destinations which could be easily travelled if we developed any issues with mobility and compared to the adventurous travel we have been doing it might be a tad dull.  However, we needed to change our original plans at short notice and ended up in America by default as it was one of the places with good weather and air miles flights still available. 

Our trip began in New Orleans, a top destination and Mardi Gras gave it such a party atmosphere.  Our accommodation was superb, people were friendly and the food was delicious.  The tour around Florida was great especially The Everglades, The Kennedy Space Centre and the rocket launch.  Georgia and South Carolina were well worth the long drive and Orlando and Tampa were just what they should be……..lots and lots of fun for kids just like us.

So, what did we like?

It’s easy travelling. No language problem and generally a similar way of life.   Finding something to do wherever you were was easy.  The National Parks were excellent.  Plenty of clearly marked trails & wildlife spotting opportunities, well maintained and extremely good value.   

Towns with any sort of history and heritage were very keen to show off.  Place like Beaufort and Savannah had the town clearly marked with tourist walks and places of interest.  Sadly, in Savannah we missed the St. Patrick’s Day Parade which is, reputedly, one of the biggest St. Pat’s parties in the world.  However, we did notice that every fountain was filled with green water!

The USA is generally clean, tidy and dust free.  The people are very friendly, albeit extremely loud, and happy to chat at every available opportunity.  We had some very interesting conversations with all sorts of people including a Moldovan taxi driver.  We didn’t meet any Trump supporters, and most volunteered the information that they were not big fans so we quickly agreed that if they didn’t mention Brexit, then we wouldn’t ask about Trump!!

Fuel is about a third of the cost although you lose some of that saving due to the slightly less economical vehicles.  Parking spaces are huge so there’s no worries about dents on your car doors.  The roads are wide and easy to navigate and well signed.  Drivers are very considerate to pedestrians but that’s probably because they fear an expensive law suit if they mow you down.  Accessibility for all is a high priority with chair hoists for swimming pools, ramps and moving platforms on buses and everywhere within the adventure parks….we really liked this aspect. 

Most restaurants, and all chains, have the calorie count of food on menus.  There’s also a reminder that an average adult shouldn’t consume more than 2000 calories a day.  However, on one menu we found one starter that was over 800 calories alone and most mains were well over 1000, and that’s before you add on your options for extra cheese, larger fries and extra ice cream scoops on your desert. 

Supermarkets are numerous and well stocked making catering in very easy.  We did this a few times just to have some variety and ensure that we got plenty of salad and decent protein like quality blue cheese, chicken and salmon.

We tended to book hotels in advance, but we probably didn’t need to as you’re always close to some sort of hotel/motel.   They were generally of good quality, but not as cheap as we had expected, and most offered only a coffee maker and no kettle.  Chai Wallah Neil soon learnt how to make the morning tea in a coffee maker!

What’s the downside?

Being environmentally aware isn’t high on the agenda in the US.  Cars and pick-ups are big and gas guzzling.  It’s a very throwaway society with hotels leaving lighting and the A/C full on and cold enough to make you shiver.  Everywhere you go you get single use plastic cutlery and plates for breakfast which are just ditched.  There’s very little recycling and supermarkets hand out plastic bags like confetti.  We bought some reusable bags while we were there.

The food wasn’t great.  We soon realised that we had been spoilt in New Orleans where we had access to the independent restaurants in the French Quarter.  On our tour as we don’t drink ‘n drive we were limited to the major chains located near to our hotels.  The food quality was just OK but often too salty unless you make the point.  Most sell the same sort of stuff, steaks, burgers, ribs etc which became very dull but they did offer some good deals on food and drinks.  We managed to get salad and vegetables in most eateries although variety is limited.  Everything comes with cheese unless you say ‘no cheese’ which we did as it’s tasteless!  Whilst the ‘meal deals’ were good value they did encourage you to eat too much.  We always found a table with lots of little hungry people to give our ‘free’ oversized desert to.

Another irritation, and we couldn’t work out why, was that menus for drinks didn’t include prices so you have to ask every time.  If you don’t ask and just order a G&T you’ll get an expensive premium gin and the same applies to wines.  However, premium and diet tonic water has yet to hit the States.  The only tonic was on tap so was sweet and flat in a couple of minutes.  Cheryl was not impressed.

The obesity problem is truly shocking.  The vast majority of adults are overweight and a significant number are clinically obese.  We also saw a number of young adults, teens and kids who were so big they could hardly shuffle towards the ‘make your own giant waffle maker’ at breakfast.  They needed assistance to make it back to the table once they piled on the toppings and picked up enough bagels, muffins, cakes and pastries to keep them going until snack time.  Along with the bad food options on offer another contributing factor has to be the reliance on cars for everything so that Americans hardly walk anywhere.

Driving standards on the interstates were poor at best and sometimes idiotic probably not helped by the law that allows undertaking.  Otherwise, the driving was very conservative.  We came within a few inches of being totally wiped out whilst doing around 70mph on an interstate from somebody undertaking.

Finally, what was very different?

Just one thing that we noticed, petrol/gas stations have a different colour scheme on pumps.  Diesel pumps are green and unleaded are black. 

Now for the verdict

We really enjoyed it and got to experience a great variety of sights and activities and met a lot of lovely people.  We didn’t expect great cuisine, so we weren’t too disappointed with the food.  The weather was great, not too hot to do some good walking and exploring, and not too cold to enjoy the waterparks and wet rides at the theme parks.

We still want to do Route 66, Vegas, New York, California and return to Chicago.  We would also like to spend more time in the National parks especially places like Yosemite and The Rockies.  

We’ll be back in the USA.

Park Life – Part 2

The weather improved so it was time to hit the water parks, Aquatica near Sea World and Volcano Bay, which opened in 2017, and although we could see it directly opposite the back of our hotel, it was across a major highway so not easy to get to.  The rides were great fun, including an aqua roller coaster which propelled us upwards using electro magnets, as well as plenty of raft and tube slides. 

The volcano in the centre of the park housed Ko’okiri Body Plunge a capsule drop slide.  It’s the tallest in America at 125 feet high and the first to travel through a clear tube through a pool full of swimmers.  First you walk up the 200+ steps to the top of Volcano Mountain.  Then you stand in a pod with arms across your chest and legs crossed at the ankle.  The door closes and the drums start to play getting louder and louder.  Without warning the floor of the pod disappears and you drop almost vertically.  Neil did it and it took less than 4 seconds to drop the 125ft to the bottom.  Whilst it did get the heart beating as the drums played it was over much too quickly.  The longer tube rides that twist and turn are much more exhilarating.  Cheryl chose not to try any of these!  We had loads of fun in the water parks but for obvious reasons we don’t have any photos.

For the last few days of our trip we hired a car and moved on to Tampa to go to Busch Gardens.  It is only an hour and a half drive from Orlando but was pleasantly free from the overwhelming crowds.  Cheryl remembered her favourite roller coaster had been Kumba, which had recently opened back then and it was still there.  It wasn’t very sophisticated, but boy did it move and it really rattled your bones! 

As it wasn’t busy we had plenty of time to try out all the rides, and we soon realised that it was well worth it to queue for a seat in the front row.  We loved Cheetah Hunt which was based on the movement of running that a cheetah has when pursuing prey, weaving, dodging and at great speed. The acceleration had us pinned back in our seats! At ¾ mile long it’s the longest in the park. 

Montu takes you high into the air before a twisting drop, a 60-foot vertical loop, an Immelmann loop and a weightless roll and that’s only the beginning on this inverted roller coaster. It has seven inversions, a unique Batwing inversion and was the first coaster in the world to incorporate an Immelmann loop (a simultaneous loop and roll), named after a German fighter pilot.

Cheryl’s favourite was Sheikra.   You climb 200 feet to the edge of a 90-degree drop that inches you mercilessly over the edge—and then stops for about 3 seconds leaving you staring at the ground below.  Then it drops almost vertically straight down into a 70mph roller coaster whirlwind with an Immelmann loop and then more loops and twists. 

Busch is much more than just roller coasters.  It was opened fifty years ago when wildlife parks were PC.  The train that takes you through the wildlife park is still there as is the cable car.  You can see rhino, elephants, giraffe, cheetah, lions, tigers and much more.  They have acres of space to roam and graze so it’s not like your average zoo.  The park itself is looking it’s age but when you don’t have to queue for anything who cares?!

There was a special bonus which Cheryl remembered from all those years ago…..free beer!  The site originally incorporated a brewery run by the family and have always given away free beer, not much, 2 samples per adult around the size of ¼ pint.  It’s given away from 2 venues in the park and your right hand is stamped each time you take a freebie.   Cheryl discovered that the stamp could be easily washed off in the loos so we cheated……..now that’s our sort of park!!

That was almost all the excitement over except for the journey home.  Our flight took off 2hrs late due to the plane arriving late from Gatwick because of bad weather.  Whilst the flight was good, food great, sleep comfortable and it made up 30 minutes it did leave us with a problem.  We had booked a train to get us back to Gloucester which left us with 1.5hrs to taxi to the gate, get through immigration, catch the train from Gatwick to Victoria, cross to Paddington via the tube and catch the 11.30.  Phew we made it but probably only because we chose to leave a few things in the US to allow us to travel with just cabin baggage and because we ran everywhere, barged past people and got very sweaty……yes, we know, TMI!

We’re back home now and living in Neil’s house for the first time in almost 11 years.  We’re running around like headless chickens catching up with people and trying to empty the house before it’s sold at the end of the month……busy, busy, busy.

Park Life – part 1

Orlando is the theme park centre of the world and possibly the Universe.  We hit lucky with our hotel and our basic cheapie room was upgraded to one of the best rooms at the top of the tower. We have a fabulous view across the older part of International Drive, the home of the best or worst, depending on your point of view, that this place has to offer. At night the eateries, sideshows and minor attractions are bathed in neon. Probably only Blackpool could beat it for tackiness. We felt right at home.

The major parks are huge and have a vast array of themed areas containing thrill rides, 3D simulator rides, live performances and shows.  Cheryl came here about 25 years ago when Alex was a little boy so was interested to see how it had all changed.  We bought multi day passes for Universal Studios, Islands of Adventure & Volcano Bay and SeaWorld, Aquatica & Busch Gardens.  We left the Disney Parks for another day just in case we have any grandkids who might like to make the trip???!!!

We came here to be big kids not that we need any excuses normally of course.  We started with an afternoon at Universal, which we discovered was a 25-minute walk from our hotel.  The crowds weren’t too bad considering it was still Spring Break (which we subsequently discovered can go up to May, as each college chooses a different week!).  

Cheryl was delighted to see that the ET ride was still there and exactly as it was all those years ago.  All the other rides have been replaced mostly by 3D simulators aimed at teenagers which was disappointing.  However, the new Wizarding World of Harry Potter was quite incredible, and we’re not even big fans.   

Of all the things in Universal Studios this was by far the best themed area as the replications of Hogwarts, Diagon Alley, the streets, the train and carriages and Kings Cross Station were superb. We took the Hogwarts Express for the ride to Hogsmeade, and we passed through the wall to get to platform 9 ¾. The ride ends in Hogsmeade station, in Universals other park, Islands of Adventure.  There are also 2 rides that are done in simulators that include playing Quidditch.  They were so good we had to do them a few times.    Leanne, you just have to go!!

We had mixed feelings about Seaworld as it has several shows featuring animals and we prefer that they be out there in the wild doing what wild animals do.  However, there was an emphasis on the research done by Seaworld, as you would expect, and they work with local wildlife organizations in Florida to rescue lots of manatees which are an endangered species and those that are able are returned to the wild.  Those that can’t be returned are chopped up and fed to the killer whales.  Only joking, they have a permanent home with ideal conditions, playmates, a balanced diet and on-site medical care for the rest of their natural life.

The shows were stunning, the animals seemed really keen to show off their skills and behaviours to the crowds and the interaction with the trainers was incredible, particularly as one was corkscrewed along underwater propelled by two dolphins. We returned to the park a few times and watched many of the shows twice.  We thoroughly enjoyed them either for the sheer power of the killer whales, the acrobatics of the dolphins or the slapstick of the sea lions and the smaller animals.  They amazed us, they made us go ‘wow’, we liked that they encouraged people to try to be ‘green’ and protect the environment (something that the US has a lot to learn about) and we laughed a lot because we love pantomime and slapstick. 

Surprisingly, Seaworld had three fantastic roller coasters which were all different and certainly got our hearts beating faster.   We split up to ride the first one as we weren’t sure if we could take our bag with us.  Cheryl got strapped in and the ride moved forward away from the loading bay only to stop just before the first drop.  What don’t you want to hear at this point?  “Kraken is having a technical issue and is temporarily halted”.  Fear not readers, she made it, and Neil even managed a photo from below.

Mako is the highest, fastest and longest in Orlando.  The plunges and climbs are so fast that you take off out of your seat for a feeling of weightlessness 5 times on the ride.  Manta loaded us into shoulder & leg restraints.  Then we found out why as we were tipped forward through 90 degrees to face the ground.  A slow climb up to the highest point before plunging down to earth, twisting, turning, looping the loop, screaming, hollering and generally having a fabulous time as we flew around.   Sadly, one person didn’t have such a good time on this ride as one set of 4 seats was taken out of service as someone had pooped their pants!  Eeeeeeewwww.

Our return visits to Universal were mixed as the crowds were huge and wait times ridiculously long.  To combat this we decided to be first in the park and the strategy paid off as by luck we saved the best till last.  The Hollywood Rip Ride Rockit was absolutely breathtaking.  You sit side by side and a large lap bar comes across to hold you in place.  After the restraints are checked, the train immediately begins to climb the 167-foot (51 m) vertical chain lift with you tilted flat on your back.  

When the train reaches the top of the lift, it drops back to the ground, reaching 65mph.  The ride then takes you through several loop the loops including corkscrews, more drops and sharp twists and turns.  Whilst the vertical climb and the 65mph fall back down are jaw dropping there is another unique experience.  As you load onto the car you are allowed to select a genre of music and a track to have whilst you take the ride.  What better than to sing along at the top of your voice to ZZ Top’s ‘Gimmee All Your Luvin’ as you are taken on the ride of your life.


Life is like a box of chocolates…

………because you really don’t know what’s coming next!

Having changed our plans to get us back to the space centre in time to watch the rocket launch we cut down our stay in Savannah to 2 nights, reduced our couch surf in Beaufort, South Carolina to 1 night and canned our proposed visit to Charleston.  We then had to find things to do for the 2 days after the launch and our trusty Florida guidebook bought from an English charity shop, price £1, came up Trumps (tee hee).

On the 3hr drive to Savannah on the I95 which runs the length of the east coast of the US, we had 2 unfortunate events.  The first had us worried that we had damaged the car and the second just scared the **** out of Neil who saw it coming but could very little about it. 

We were in the inside lane doing around 70mph when the breeze blew a plastic bucket into our path.  It was too late and too busy to change lane so Neil just had to go over the top.  We pulled over expecting the plastic trim at the front of the car to be in tatters……phew, no damage! 

The second event was almost game over with us either mashed up and in intensive care or in the morgue.  This time we were in the fast lane doing just over 70mph and Neil noticed a car come off the slip road, cross the nearside lane, cross the middle lane and then attempt to enter the lane we were in.  Again, we had nowhere to go so Neil swerved as far as he could go and in the side mirror he noticed that the driver of the other car, now just inches from our rear wing, swerve back into his own lane.  It was a much bigger car so if it had caught our rear wing it would have spun us around and we would have rolled for as long as it took to stop.  That’s assuming we didn’t hit anything else.  So, 2 positive results and 2 clean pairs of pants later we arrived in Savannah. 

Established in 1733 as an English Colony, Savannah in Georgia was a bustling commercial town importing goods from all over the world and exporting goods from Georgia and The Carolina’s, especially cotton.  It was a key location for the American Revolution battles the English had in the late 1700’s with the French and Americans.  Then in the 1860’s the bitter Civil war between the north and the south dominated the scene with the town being the centre of the Confederate struggle. 

It’s still a busy port with huge container ships passing along the river to the open sea.  They sail past the town dwarfing the buildings.  The town itself is beautifully preserved with tree lined streets intersecting numerous tree covered squares and parks.  It is quite stunning with more than 20 squares and parks including one that featured Tom Hanks playing Forest Gump sitting on a bench with his box of chocolates.    

Next stop was a couch surf with Nancy and Timothy in another beautifully preserved small town, Beaufort South Carolina.  Nancy suggested we stop at the Port Royal Sound Maritime Centre which gave us the history of Beaufort and its crab, shrimp and oyster industries.  In its heyday around 100 years ago it employed several thousand people including children who went to morning school and then spent 4 hours oyster shucking in the afternoon.   

Nancy also suggested that we stop at the Cypress Wetlands board walk trail.  It didn’t disappoint with lots of birds and alligators.  We almost saw a crane become a meal but the gator was just a fraction too slow.  This place is surrounded by housing and it shows that the people of Florida, Georgia and The Carolinas are never far from a gator.

We took the town walking tour and looked at the historic buildings and the town centre.   A number of these have been used as film sets as they typify the Antebellum style used between the wars, Revolution and Civil.  We also drove over the bridge used in Forest Gump as he takes his run across America..   It’s a really pretty town with a waterside walk which passes by some very nice yachts.  The park had a collection of benches on swings overlooking the water – what a great idea.

We had a lovely evening with Nancy and Tim talking about all things America and the UK.  She cooked us a delicious meal of local shrimp and followed it with her home-made brownies……very naughty but very nice!  We asked about living so close to gators and she told us that generally it’s not a problem as they are more scared of us.  However, a couple of years ago a woman was walking her dog and a gator took a fancy to it.  She tried to rescue the dog and also became gator food. 

Their garden is full of lovely trees and colourful birds which had us mesmerised with their colours and antics whilst we sat and drank beer and wine on the upper deck that Timothy had built.  Thank you guys, we really enjoyed your hospitality and we look forward to hosting you on the narrow boat and for you to experience the wonders of canal engineering. 

Davenport was to be our base for 2 nights to visit Bok Tower Gardens which Cheryl read about in our trusty charity shop book.  We would never have known about it otherwise.  Edward Bok was a Dutch immigrant who, basically, made a fortune.  He decided to create a nature sanctuary and gift it to the American people.  The 130 acre park was landscaped by the designer of New York’s Central Park and it was opened by President Calvin Coolidge in 1929 just a few months before the Wall St Crash. 

The focal point is a 205ft Gothic Revival Tower of Georgia marble and pink Florida coquina.  It houses a carillon containing 60 bronze bells ranging in size from 16 pounds to 12 tons, all made in Loughborough. It’s called the singing tower and concerts are given twice a day by the carilloneur, who plays the instrument via a keyboard which is mechanically linked to a clapper inside each bell.   Our visit was on St Patrick’s Day and the concert featured Irish music. We sat in an area which had a live video stream so we could see the carilloneur at work up in the tower itself.   The resident player at Bok Tower is a Belgian, whose father was also a carilloneur.  He’s now married with an American wife and has taken US Citizenship.  We had never heard of a carillon before but there are hundreds all over the world, including the UK so we plan to look them up when we get back.

One Small Step

Do you remember the excitement of the 1960’s and 70’s when space travel moved from films and TV to reality?  Yuri Gagarin was the first man in space and then the race between USA and Russia literally took off.  There were triumphs, failures, break throughs and disasters but it was all exciting stuff.  Since then, for us at least, space travel has fallen out of our top 10 of interesting things in the news.  It’s been taken over by the mind-blowing internet, our own travelling, Brexit, our children and our first grandchild.  Space is old news. 

Not anymore.  We went to Kennedy Space Centre (KSC) in Florida where all the excitement of US space travel was focused back in the 60’s and 70’s.  We relived those days of orbiting the moon, landing on the moon, seeing a Saturn 5 rocket, seeing the actual Atlantis Space Shuttle and reliving the pain of the Columbia and Challenger Space Shuttle disasters.  Now we are getting excited about the new stuff, the international space station, how research rockets are sent to Mars and if life really does live somewhere else in space, maybe our twin planet nearly 500 light years away, Keplar 186f.

Our day at KSC started with a tour of the site which is huge.  We walked under an old Saturn V rocket which at 360ft tall was almost twice the height of the space shuttle.  It got us thinking just how complicated these things are.  It also got us thinking that the capsule that the astronauts traveled in was around 7ft high meaning that the astronauts were sitting on 350ft of high explosive.  When the countdown gets to T-10 just how fast was their heart beating?  Very scary! 

KSC has got us excited again. Yes, we did some silly stuff on our day out but this is a really serious subject especially as one day our children and grandchildren might just travel in space.  There were plenty of opportunities to learn about the technical aspects of space travel including live talks from the people behind the projects taking place right now as well as a session with an Astronaut who completed three missions on the space shuttle. So far, since good old Yuri captured the world’s imagination, less than 600 people have travelled in space. 

In 1903 the Wright brothers made the first powered flight.  In 1977, just 74 years later, Sir Freddy Laker started the first British low cost, no frills, transatlantic service.  Yuri, bless him, went up in 1961, that’s 58 years ago.  If the technology moves at the same speed that means anyone can go into space in less than 20 years from now.  Wow, now that is mind blowing!

NASA are working positively with Elon Musk, Boeing, Jeff Bezos and Sir Richard Branson to share the cost of making space travel for the masses a reality.  Branson has already stated that he plans to fly into space this year.   Musk’s SpaceX company succeeded in sending a cargo capsule to the International Space Centre a couple of weeks ago using the launch pad they have leased at KSC. All these guys are putting buckets of cash into making it happen so maybe now you realise why we’ve become excited again.

There are multiple launch pads at KSC and there’s a launch of some type almost every month which is something else that surprised us.  NASA stopped the space shuttle in 2011 after around 30 years.  Since then it has been using Russian rockets to get astronauts to the space station at a cost of around $80m each.  That will stop as NASA is getting closer to using new rockets capable of carrying humans to get its own people not only into the space station but also back on the moon.  Along with the privateers it’s looking very promising for real space travel for the masses. 

While we were there we heard that there was to be a launch of a Delta IV rocket taking a military satellite into space on March 15th at around 7pm.  At over 200ft tall it’s bigger than the shuttle was.  Neil was excited, it must be a boy thing, so next day we quickly changed all our plans for the next week and made arrangements to come back to see the launch.  We got ourselves a picnic, some beers and wine, and took it down to Cocoa Beach which we had been told would give us a great view. 

The launch was scheduled for 6.56pm and we watched the countdown clock tick down. Nothing happened. We knew the launch window would end at around 9pm so we stayed and waited as it got dark. It was late, and we were beginning to think it wouldn’t happen, but then kaboom!  Wow, it was absolutely awesome (that’s an American thing) but, to be fair, it was absolutely awesome.  We watched the light make an arc in the sky  and then after a few seconds it disappeared into space just like The Starship Enterprise when it shot into Warp Drive.  That’s another first for us and was just a fabulous moment.

Key Lime Pie……mmmm

The Florida Keys are a string of tropical islands stretching more than a hundred miles off the southern tip of Florida. The southernmost city of Key West is its quirky heart and it has attracted a long line of pirates, wreckers, writers, artists, bohemians and eccentrics. Sounds like the place for us!

We had a good afternoon wandering around Key West taking in its laid back vibe and pretty architecture.  Of course we had to try Key Lime Pie while watching the pelicans around the harbour near Mallory Square. It’s easy to see why it’s a favourite destination for wealthy Americans looking for some winter sun and the chance to mess around on expensive boats.   Whilst The Keys were very pretty and the scenery stunning it was a tortuous drive.  End to end is about 100 miles but as most of the road is two-way traffic it can be very slow and frustrating in places.  Hey, it’s the famous Florida Keys and it had to be done but it won’t be done again.

We wanted to stay in Key West the southern most tip of the US.  However, we stayed about a 30 minute drive away as the cost of rooms in Key West itself is horrific.  We took the cheapest place we could find in all The Keys and the simple motel style room still cost £115/night without breakfast.  It turned out to be pretty good, with an unexpected bonus of a balcony view across a canal lined with boats.  The attached bar was, shall we say, amusing with a number of interesting guests and a meat raffle!

Final stop in Florida was to visit Miami Beach and the historic Art Deco buildings.  Once again rooms are very expensive in Miami but we managed to find a very good place a 20 minute drive from the train that takes you downtown.  You then catch a bus over to the beach.  Using public transport seemed a good idea to beat the traffic and avoid a parking nightmare.  However, the process was baffling from start to finish – including working out how to get into the parking for the metrorail, and then how to pay for it.  We finally managed to work it out but it took ages to get there as the traffic getting across the causeway was shocking.  Maybe going to Ocean Drive on a Saturday afternoon at peak holiday season wasn’t one of our better ideas.

The beach is a huge expanse of white sand and miles long and, as it was spring break, full of wannabees on their college break.  Bikinis everywhere, guys pumping the exercise bars saying ‘look at me babe’ and noisy bars all along the main street.  It was interesting to experience America’s infamous spring break and see the stunning buildings all at the same time.  As the US was coming out of the 1930’s depression, Miami Beach became one of the places to hang out.  Buildings flew up along Ocean Drive with views out across the Atlantic.  They are stunning and hats off to Barbara Baer Capitman who started the preservation society in 1976.  

For those of you old enough to remember Crockett and Tubbs they were nowhere to be seen but there was a hefty police presence probably because of all the college kids partying hard.   Nor were there signs of any of their late 80’s fashion statements which would have gone well with some of the very expensive cars and boats to be seen all over the city. 

Next…….to infinity and beyond.

Surfing and Sploshing in The Everglades

Our tour of Florida began in Naples with Couchsurfing. It’s a great way to meet people, learn about real life and get some great tips on sightseeing. You get to stay with a local, and usually in your own room rather than actually sleeping on the couch. We’ve used it in several countries and offer a mobile bed in our caravan in the summer. 

We arranged to stay with Kathleen, a recently retired lady originally from New York.  She had a beautiful apartment in a gated complex that overlooked a lake with fountains.  She was the prefect host and, by American standards, incredibly well travelled having been cabin crew for Royal Jordanian Airlines.  She had been to most countries in the Middle East, lived in Europe and still had lots of places left to visit on her bucket list.  She took us to see the sunset on the beach, to a nature reserve to watch the birds, turtles and alligators and we met her twin sister and her husband who was originally from the Lebanon.

Dinner on the first night was in a swanky plaza filled with upmarket restaurants and shops.  Naples is a wealthy place and generally people there seem to be enjoying the good life.  On the second evening we had a barbeque and sat chatting until late.  We had a fabulous time with her and we hope that she’ll come and see us in the UK and maybe Goa too.

Next stop was Florida City, about an hour south west of Miami and our base to explore The Everglades.  The park was filled with trails and lookout points so armed with our map from the rangers in the visitor centre we spent a full day seeing lots of alligators, turtles, and birds.  We finished off with a boat trip, where we also saw crocodiles.  The Everglades is actually an extremely wide very slow moving river, most of it shallow with porous sheets of limestone below.  There were a surprising number of distinct habitats which alter with only a few inches of elevation. 

We signed up for the special walking tour with a ranger on day 2.  We were told we needed long trousers and closed in shoes and we ‘might’ get wet feet!  Ha!  If wading knee deep in water that provides a home for snakes, turtles and alligators means you ‘might’ get wet feet then we weren’t disappointed.  We were also given a long walking pole as we needed to test the ground ahead of us for holes in the limestone as we could have gone in up to our armpits! Our ‘waterproof’ boots took a couple of days to dry out but it was great fun.  Ranger John was really informative about the habitat and getting deep into the cypress domes and looking for an alligator hole was exciting. 

Our small group was made up of a dozen College kids.  It’s Spring Break at the moment and in America that’s traditionally a time for College kids to go party on the beach. This group was different and explained they were on an Alternative Spring Break where they volunteered their time to help out in the National Park by clearing trails and litter picking.  We were very impressed with this and had some fun with them as a few of them did drop into some of the holes and got very wet.  They were young, gung ho, so we let them go first and find the deepest holes which we could then avoid. Ahh, the wisdom of age.

Eating in Florida City gave us highs and lows.  Our first night was a disaster.  The USA prides itself on delivering great service.  We don’t think that waiting 35 minutes to order drinks, waiting 10 minutes to get the drinks, having to go to the bar to get your own second beer, ordering a salad without cheese only to get one covered in the stuff or having your main course come with the wrong side dish is particularly good service.  Tipping here in the US is mandatory, somewhere between 15-20%, but this was the first place where we left nothing as we definitely wouldn’t be back. 

Our second and third nights were much better.  Texas Roadhouse delivered excellent food, superb service, great drink offers and entertainment from staff who jumped into a song and dance routine from time to time……we had a ball.

Next Stop – The Keys

Mardi Gras in New Orleans

The journey from London to New Orleans with British Airways restored our faith in the brand.  The check in was smooth, the food and drinks in the lounge excellent and the flight beverages, top nosh and staff were perfect. 

Immigration was almost friendly, a rare thing these days for the States, and we were swiftly through the airport.  It took a while to work out how to get a taxi, and although some reviews had said that our accommodation was hard to find, we stopped right outside the door.  The apartment was huge, and by huge we mean huge.  The bed was the size of a bowling green, the kitchen had everything and 15 floors up meant we had a great view of the city.  As for the location, well it was on the famous Canal Street and just a 15 minute walk to the even more famous Bourbon Street in the French Quarter.  The only downside was the cost but as we got a heavily discounted late booking of £85/night it was an absolute bargain as most hotels in the suburbs were at least the same and those as close to the French Quarter as we were cost twice as much.

We came to New Orleans to see Mardi Gras which is on a huge scale with parades taking place over a couple of weeks. Each parade has a theme, and the ‘Krewes’ on the floats throw gifts at the crowds. Traditionally these ‘throws’ were strings of brightly coloured beads, but this now includes cups, badges, toys, bags, tokens and all manner of tacky stuff. The crowds go wild for the throws, ‘Bead Whores’ as we call them will do almost anything for a string of beads and as you can see from the photos Cheryl got sucked into the party atmosphere and collected 27 of her own in one night. Some of the crowd also brought nets to enable them to catch more tat.  It really is quite bizarre but the atmosphere is good, the high school marching bands are great and some of the floats are fantastic.  

We also enjoyed wandering around the French Quarter and eating at the many great restaurants. One place had a special offer we just couldn’t resist and ended up indulging in the 25 cent martinis which came with our lunch. We also indulged in a spectacular dessert of bread pudding covered in white chocolate and strawberries. It was all so good we needed a snooze in the afternoon, didn’t wake up until 8pm and nearly missed the parades that night!

The parades on the second night were even better with bigger floats and huge marching bands. Cheryl’s favourites were the Dead Rock Stars who featured over 100 Freddie Murcury ‘lookalikes’ all dressed in the yellow military jacket and white trousers and dancing to ‘Another One Bites the Dust’. The Krewe of Muse parade signature throw is a decorated high heel shoe and even the beads were adorned with shoes and glitter. Even more tat was collected to add to the pile.

We caught a lunchtime parade on our last day run by Bosom Buddies and Breast Friends, a walking parade celebrating cancer survivors and their supporters. The signature throw of this parade are hand decorated bras and Cheryl was lucky enough to be singled out to get one covered in flowers.

The day ended with a tedious wait at the airport as our flight to Tampa with budget airline Spirit kept getting delayed. We collected the hire car, a Kia Soul, and finally arrived at our overnight hotel at 2am.