Road to Nowhere

Whilst it was definitely the road less travelled, Western Australia did not disappoint. Wildlife encounters, walking amongst giants, surfing rocks, gawping at huge holes and machinery, listening to some rather saucy stories, and more……..

Having picked up our large luxury 2 berth MoHo, our first job was to load up with food and find a bottle shop for wine and beer.  Then the sightseeing began with The Thrombolites at lake Clifton Lake, just down the coast. 

They are the oldest living things on earth at about 2000 years old.  They are extremely rare and only found in only a few places in the world, including Western Australia and Argentina, so we felt it was worth the short diversion from the route to pay homage to these extraordinary creatures.  They don’t do much, don’t move, don’t make a sound and definitely don’t answer back. 

Our first overnight was in Bunbury as first thing the following morning we went to watch and paddle with dolphins that come in very close to the shore.  It’s a weird experience as they seem so tame and almost want to play. 

That was followed by a walk along Bussleton Jetty.  It’s almost 2km long and at the end there is an underwater observatory where you can walk down a spiral staircase to see beautiful multi-coloured coral and fish.  It was a very hot day but well worth the long walk to see the amazing colours.

We had booked into Margaret River Caravan Site so that we could visit some of the interesting sights nearby including caves, beautiful coastline, a lighthouse and to get back into living on a campsite and using the BBQ’s provided.  Of course, you couldn’t come to Margaret River without doing a wine tour or two!! 

We had a great tip off from our young guide Max on the first tour – go to Hamelin Bay where you can wade in the water with sting rays.

Land of The Giants

Travelling further along the coast we stopped at Manjimup to see The King Jarra tree. It’s estimated to be somewhere between 300 and 500 years old it is almost 40m tall.  Next in line was the Diamond Tree lookout which is a Jarra tree over 50m high. 

This tree was pegged in 1940 and a cabin built at the top. The tower person scaled the pegs to the cabin and scanned the surrounding landscape looking for bush fires.  You were, until recently, able to climb it, if you had the balls, but it’s now closed due to H&S plus the tree is diseased.  There are also 4 Jarra trees in a line, The Four Aces, and nobody knows if they were planted like that by Aboriginals or it just happened that way.  Standing at the base and looking up at the 400-year-old giants standing at 75m tall offers quite a remarkable view and memorable experience. 

All aboard

We are blessed in Seaton by having a tramway which is a huge draw for tourists to the town.  So, when we heard about The Pemberton Tram we couldn’t resist.  Maybe not such an impressive set up as Seaton but a good history just the same.  The Pemberton Tramway Company was established in 1987 to operate a service on the Pemberton – Northcliffe Railway.  It closed in February 2023 with the possibility to never re-open and then a local family stepped in to buy the business and it’s been a tourist attraction since.

Having had our ‘tram fix’ we were now getting tree withdrawal symptoms, so we set off to see The Valley of the Giants.  It has a 600m long tree top walk suspended 40m high in the canopy of the ancient tingle tree forest.  It was truly spectacular, as was the walk through the bush following a board walk and being able to stand inside a tingle tree. 

Windy City

We moved on to Albany which has so much to see and do where we stayed four nights.  The site was good and very convenient for the town. 

In 1914, more than 40,000 Australians and New Zealanders left Albany, bound for the Great War, – The Anzacs.  The National Anzac Centre is set within acres of land with footpaths that explore gunnery points and buildings.  There is a road up to the main memorial, The Avenue of Honour, which we chose to walk, and we were glad we did.  It’s an avenue of trees that were planted in the 1950’s and each tree has a plaque in memory to a soldier.  What was interesting is that many of the soldiers that fell in Normandy were quite young.  The Anzacs, however, ranged from a few young men to many in their 30’s and upwards. 

The weather in Albany wasn’t great, cool and very windy but, thankfully, dry.  This meant that it made it great walking weather so we headed off to Torndirrup National Park. which had loads to see.  There were several things to see including blow holes that we could hear but not see as the tide was down and the waves were in the wrong direction. 

The Gap, where we stood on a metal vantage point to stare down at a very angry sea hammering against the rocks.  For some reason, it was particularly windy and we had to hang onto each other let alone our hats! 

We didn’t quite get to Bald Head which we could see in the distance during a cliff top walk as it was too far in the time we had.  Torndirrup N P was lovely and on the way back to the campsite we had a first.  The police were making random checks and our vehicle was pulled over.   Neil had to blow into a breathalyser, something he’s never done before.  All clear and we were waved on. 

Another natural phenomena are the underground caves around Albany. We chose Jewel Cave, and it was spectacular.

Everybody’s going surfing……

After 4 nights we headed inland to Kalgoorlie stopping first at Wave Rock for a night on the way.  Once again, we had a lovely walk, although this time it was very hot and it was the first time we had to wear the head nets because of the annoying flies.  There was a clue in the name, Wave Rock, and it was well worth the diversion to see it.  The pictures don’t really do it justice but it is an amazing piece of natural geology. 

We knew that the further inland we went that the temperature would rise and the forecast for our arrival in Kalgoorlie was 45C, phew.  Regular readers know that Lucky is Neil’s middle name and it was fine as the next day the temperature dropped and it settled back to around a near perfect 30C.  It’s location in the outback meant that the heat was very dry making our sightseeing and evening BBQ’s a real treat. 

The Kalgoorlie mine, also known as the Super Pit, is the largest open-pit gold mine in Australia.  It took us a long time to absorb the sheer scale of the place which we observed from a viewing point plus a guided tour. It’s approximately 3.7km long, 1.5km wide, and more than 600m deep.  Whilst on our tour the driver, who used to work at the pit, said that they were in the process of enlarging it, by 50%!  Most of you will have heard of Tonka Toys, well the trucks are as a big as a house, and they can carry rocks in the back equivalent to 110 large cars.  The drivers work 12hr shifts, 7 days a week, three weeks on three weeks off.  We could go on and on with the stats, they are mind blowing, but we know you have a life!

The gold rush town of Kalgoorlie has some beautifully preserved buildings, several museums dedicated to the long history of mining that was started in 1893 by Paddy Hannan and his buddies.  This guy has had a fascinating life, he’s worth putting into Google. 

Of course, being a mining town, the miners had certain needs which need to be met – alcohol and ‘ladies’.  Questa Casa is a brothel that was still operating until a few years ago.  The Madam now offers tours with some great stories and photo opportunities. The Elders of Kalgoorlie took a unique approach to managing the situation as the growing wealth brought respectable families to the town alongside the rough and ready miners.  They moved all the brothels into Hay Street so everyone knew where to go or not to go depending on their preferences.  The ladies had to stay on the premises from dusk to dawn and could only go into the town during the day accompanied by The Madam.  The girls were regularly medically checked, and as numbers were limited they were able to make a small fortune so it was all very civilised.

Our tour of Western Australia was coming to an end, and we had to return the MoHo within a couple of days.  Heading back towards Perth we had a night at Merredin to do a walking tour which came highly recommended – sadly it wasn’t great.  That was followed by a night in York.  Whilst the campsite was, mmmm, interesting, the town was beautifully preserved, and the motor museum was very quaint and low key – well worth the visit.

You know when you get the feeling someone is staring at you? We spotted him in the tree looking down on us at the campsite.

Australia is vast. Australian Roads are generally in great condition and some stretches go on for mile after mile through huge never ending landscapes where you can see for miles and miles. That makes for some incredibly dull and very long drives. Unless you like looking at vast expanses of nothingness, with a few subtle changes to the trees, dust and rocks (Cheryl) or get excited by roadtrains (Neil).

Finally It was time to say goodbye to the MoHo. Luckily for us we were checked back in with the guy who had a sense of humour rather than Cruella Deville.  With the all clear and full deposit returned we had a night at an airport hotel before flying to Melbourne to have a couple of days sightseeing.  We had a fabulous afternoon sightseeing with friends Sally & Ken from the Silversea Cruise.  They invited us over to their house in the Melbourne suburbs for dinner and several bottles of excellent wine.

Next day we took the train to go and see Cheryl’s cousin Roy and his partner Heather.  Always fun and excellent hosts they always manage to fit in a wine tasting!  They are coming towards the end of a major renovation and extension project on their house which has been transformed since we last visited about seven years ago.  We were able to swap tales of our own reno experiences during lockdown.  They kindly drove us back to Melbourne airport for our flight home to the UK via Kuala Lumpur. 

That’s the end of our winter trip this year. We’ve done some amazing things, met some wonderful people and caught up with old friends.  It had some interesting moments but overall – It was more than Fine!!

This post has been brought to you by the following sponsors – who as usual didn’t give us anything at all for all this valuable publicity………

Congratulations

A crazy Australia Day, a new arrival, and meeting an old friend from our travels back in 2011.  We crammed a lot into two days!

The East Perth Suites Hotel was a short walk from the train station, and what a result – our apartment proved to be quite superb with a lovely view of the waterways. There was also a self-service washing machine for guest use which was really useful.  It was walkable to the centre, close to a well-stocked bottle shop, opposite a IGA minimarket, adjacent the free tramway and surrounded by restaurants – thumbs up!

That night, having wandered around to get our bearings and get fresh milk for morning tea, we settled on a nearby Cambodian Restaurant.  It was a little quieter than many of the other venues, had some outdoor seating and it was a BYO – perfect.  It also turned out that the food was very good, service excellent and just very low key, the sort of place we like.

You’ll remember that from the previous post that Annmaree and Russell from the train had invited us to The Windsor Hotel in South Perth to meet up with others from the train to celebrate Australia Day.  We arrived at 11am and set about getting to know the others and, of course, partake in a beer or two.  The hotel, which was more a pub, was busy and lively and as it was Australia Day there was a BBQ in the garden giving out free snags.

A young lady came around touting for people to take part in the Vegemite sandwich eating contest.  Whilst tempted, for once Neil chose the right answer, ‘sorry, no thanks’.  She eventually found five victims and sat them down ready to take part.  The stack of sandwiches was huge, it looked like a whole loaf of doughy white bread, you know, the sort that sits in your stomach for days.  The competition started and the noise in the pub got even louder as cheers of encouragement rung around the bar. 

It quickly became a race of two speeds which eventually became a one-horse race and a young boy, aged 11 well on the way to finishing his plateful.  Suddenly it was obvious he was in trouble, he pulled a funny face and shot off to the toilet.  He returned and was awarded a well deserved victory as the other contestants had thrown in the towel, totally beaten.  It was great fun for us all to watch and we hope that the flight he was catching that evening went OK!

Isn’t she lovely

Earlier that day Cheryl awoke to a dramatic message from son Alex, ‘News from Canada…..waters have broken’.  Another grandchild was on the way, but the due date was end of February, and the dads were on holiday in The Canaries so things weren’t going as planned.  As the day progressed Cheryl was discretely checking her phone for updates and apologised to all around the table for having a phone out.  Once they understood the situation everyone was engaged in the ongoing drama and demanded regular ten minute checks for an update.  Eventually late in the afternoon there was another ping and some excellent news.

Meet Lyra, four and a half weeks premature, fully fit and healthy and totally gorgeous. Congratulations to the proud Dads and immense thanks to the surrogate mum and her family for the greatest gift.

Whilst the Australia Day celebrations were still ramping up, we decided that after 7hrs of eating and drinking, bowing out seemed like the sensible thing to do.  We ordered an Uber and headed back to the apartment and a light Cambodian meal of ‘real’ food rather than cheap ‘snags’ and vegemite sandwiches.  It had been a great day and we will keep in touch with Annmaree and Russell.

Hello again

In 2011, whilst backpacking in Sri Lanka, we were told about the concept of Couchsurfing from a number of young folk.  Travellers are hosted by individuals and families at no cost for a night or two in the way that Pilgrims used to be looked after along their pilgramage routes. The idea is to offer hospitality and to get to know people from around the world. You can look for a bed or offer a bed through the website. We thought it was worth trying and created our own profile. 

Shortly afterwards we were accepted for our first Couchsurf with Ian in Kandy.  He was working at The British Council teaching English.  He proved to be an excellent host, finding us some delicious Sri Lankan food and showing us some of the sights.  We have since met up with him several in the UK when he was teaching English to foreign students in Sheffield.  Ian holds both UK and Australian citizenship and lives just south of Perth. 

We arranged to meet and this time he gave us a tour of Freemantle (Freeo) and Perth.  Thanks Ian, you showed us things that we would never have found in a month let alone a day including the highlight of the day for Neil when a massive containership sailed past while we were having lunch in Freeo.  (Neil is fascinated by the whole world of containers and how they manage them – did you know that there in excess of 60m containers in the world?……..yawn, yawn).

A short visit but we really liked Perth and would definitely recommend spending a few days there.

On the road again

We’ve done planes, boats and trains. Next in the plan was a road trip around the south of Western Australia in a Motorhome. Early next morning we arrived at the depot near to the airport. We were excited but unfortunately the lady in the office had undergone a personality bypass and couldn’t have been more miserable if she tried. ‘That doesn’t work, you won’t need this, you’ll definitely need to get one of these, that’s useless, blah blah blah’ and so it went on.

Miss Trunchbull was so scary Cheryl took several videos documenting every little bump and scratch on the vehicle in case we were landed with a massive bill for any damage on return. Thankfully, the guy in the workshop was human so we relied on him for information which we needed and we were swiftly on our way.

Trains and Boats and Plains

Sometimes our luck runs out and in this instance it definitely wasn’t fine.  

The Tasman Sea was having a tantrum which could affect our arrival date in Sydney.  We needed to arrive on time as old friends Chris and Viv had arranged to meet us at the port terminal to take us on a ‘magical mystery tour’. 

Whilst in Hobart The Captain advised that the weather ahead was looking a tad challenging and this may affect our scheduled itinerary.  We contacted C&V and Chris explained that the plan was to drive us to The Hunter Valley to go to a music festival on the Saturday, stay over in a an AB&B and next day to go on a wine tour. The music festival was a one off event so it couldn’t be rearranged.

We kept in touch with them via the ships email with daily updates on whether we would make it but when the final decision was made by the Captain to definitely delay entry to Sydney Harbour to avoid the storm it was clear we weren’t going to make it. Tickets and accommodation had been paid for so C&V went to the festival alone and we decided to try and recover whatever we could.

We worked out that the only way we could join C&V for day 2 and what was left of the wine tour was by booking a very expensive taxi.  We rushed off the ship as soon as we were allowed and the taxi was waiting just at the terminal exit – hurrah! We should get there by lunchtime.  It was fine that the taxi was there, but it wasn’t fine that the driver had the most terrible BO and we were stuck in a confined space with him for 2 hours. Pah!

We arrived at the lunch venue at exactly the same time as the wine tour – all was not lost!  It was great to see C&V and we spent a pleasant afternoon tasting wine, chocolate and cheese.  The accommodation was lovely and set in expansive grounds and we were joined by a herd of kangaroos in the evening.  We also spotted a joey’s head peeking out of his mum’s pouch, apologies for the quality of the pic.

After leaving the Hunter Valley on Monday we had a couple of days with them at their place in Avalon Beach, north of Sydney.  We always have fun with them, and we are looking forward to catching up again when they come over this year to see Viv’s family.  Thanks C&V for booking everything, it’s just a pity we couldn’t enjoy the full experience together.

Long train running

As you know we’re getting on with ticking items off the bucket list and decided to take one of the world’s top train journeys.  We were going to ride The Indian Pacific Railway all the way from Sydney to Perth in Western Australia.  Almost 4 days, 3 nights, on a luxury train with several excursions, gastronomic dining and quality drinks all included.  Very expansive, mighty expensive, but we are on a mission and so what the hell, it had to be done. It was also a journey taken by Michael Portillo on his trip to Australia, and looked wonderful.

However, the night before the trip started we received an email advising us to get to the station extra early, as there had been a last minute change of plan.  Due to strikes, the train was not going to start at Sydney so we needed to get there early to be bussed out to catch the train elsewhere.  Pah! This wasn’t fine –  we weren’t going to have the advertised champagne and canapes in the station followed by a gourmet lunch with free flowing drinks on board.  Regular readers will recall that UK train strikes have affected many of our journeys so we couldn’t believe it was happening to us in Oz.

Chris kindly agreed to drive us to the station and we set off early through the morning rush hour before we said our goodbyes.  After a short wait to check in we headed into the café for simple sandwiches and coffee while we waited for the bus.  Inside we met Russell and Annmaree.  What a lovely couple, we liked them, we just hit it off immediately.  As we were summoned to catch our allotted bus, we realised that the train was segmented and that we were to be on a different bus and a different section to them……..bugger!

The bus took us up through the Blue Mountains which we had been to before, but they are stunningly beautiful, so all was not lost.  We stopped for a comfort and sightseeing break and, as you do, made our way to get a beer and a glass of warm bubbly (the place wasn’t great).  Who should walk by? Russell and Annmaree…..spooky. 

We finally arrived at the station of departure, Littleton, which was totally devoid of facilities and, annoyingly, personnel from the tour company.  Anyway, trying to make the most of the boredom, and in the knowledge that we were to have best part of 3 days just eating and drinking, we set about doing laps of the platform to get some exercise.  After several false alarms and more delays we eventually boarded the train to realise just how the train was to be segmented.  It was a kilometer long and was split into sections of 3 private cabins which were each serviced by a lounge bar cabin and a dining cabin.  R&A were in a different area which was a pity but because you met the same few people each morning, lunch and evening it was extremely sociable, and both the food and drink were mighty good.  We soon made friends with the lovely barman and after a few drinks and a lovely dinner we settled in.

Our luxury accommodation was a tad on the small side but came with its own very small ensuite.  It might have been compact but it was comfortable and was converted from a day sofa to two bunks in the evening by the train staff. 

Our first stop the next morning was intended to be at the mining town of Broken Hill, somewhere we intended to visit in the motor home a few years ago but decided against it as it was ‘just too darned hot’!  However, as the train was running late, we only had time to stop while the train took on fuel and water.  This meant that the excursion we had booked, a walking tour of the town with drag queen Shelita Buffet, was cancelled.  However, all was not lost as the train company arranged for her to join the train to provide some entertainment on the way to Adelaide.

We spotted her on the platform and took the opportunity for a quick photo and a chat.  We’re not sure if it’s the banter that we had with her on the platform, but she took an instant liking to Neil and used him as a foil for her act.  Neil being Neil had a lot of banter with her whilst we’re pretty sure that some people didn’t really know what to make of the lovely Shelita.  We played a silly game of bingo, had a quiz, both winning prizes, a fridge magnet for Neil and a baseball cap for Cheryl.  She sang and she just strutted her stuff, and she made us laugh.  After her performance, she sat down and had a drink with us all and we ended up with an intimate Q&A session where she candidly answered all our questions just chatted about her life, her story – it was excellent. 

Adelaide was to be our next stop and we opted for the tour including wine tasting at a vineyard in the McClaren Vale followed by dinner at a restaurant overlooking the sea.  Guess who we sat with?

The next day we stopped at Cook, a ghost town.  Yup, it was a real ghost town, and one that once had a school and a hospital which was set up in 1917 in the Nullabour Plain to service the railway.  It’s around 800km from anywhere and it relied on two trains a week to bring supplies.  Sadly, in 1997 with privatisation of the railway and general technological changes it was to die, quickly.  It made an eerie visit, old schoolhouse, hospital and sports facilities all just falling foul of the elements which, in the Nullabour Plain, are quite hostile.  An interesting fact about the train and the plain, it’s home to the longest piece of straight railway track in the world at 478km or 297 miles.

That evening we stopped at Rawlinna, a remote outpost on the edge of Australia’s largest sheep station, where we enjoyed a fabulous long-table dinner under the stars.  It was just an awesome event with some excellent BBQ food, drinks and live music.  There was a bonus, somehow amongst the hundreds of people on the train, we managed to meet up with Russell and Annmaree and spend the evening with them.  This was beginning to make us think that this was a meeting that was meant to be.

Finally, we arrived in Perth and our train sojourn came to an end.  Apart from the rocky start the rest had been just so good.  The food and drinks were top notch, the people we met had interesting tales to tell and we had a lot of fun experiences along the way.    We had travelled 4352km from the East Coast of Australia to the West.  We went through 3 time zones.  We spent hours just watching the scenery go through subtle and not so subtle changes, and spotted the occasional Emu or Kangaroo.  The most intriguing sight was the endless nothingness of the Nullaboor Plain, Nullaboor means no trees and it was a very good description. We thank our lucky stars that we are fortunate enough to be able to afford it. 

Once we had left the train, we set about trying to find Russell and Annmaree to say our goodbyes.  Let’s not forget that the train was 1 km long and home to hundreds of people all trying to find a bus, a taxi or loved ones that had come to pick them up.  R&A were from Perth, they were home, so it was highly likely that somebody would come and collect them. 

We had almost given up when Neil saw Russell who was trying to do the same, say goodbye.  We all had hugs and said goodbye until next time, perhaps.  Suddenly, Russell announced that tomorrow was Australia Day and that a few of the people from their train segment were getting together at a hotel in South Perth to celebrate and generally say ‘it was a pleasure to meet you’.  Would we like to go too?  Is the pope a Catholic?

Until next time……

The Ultimate Bad Boy

Our trail of lots of ‘bad boys’ or bushrangers on this trip would not be complete without the infamous Ned Kelly.  Many towns use his name to cash in on the tourist draw and Glenrowan is the one that takes the biscuit for tackiness.  To be fair, it was the site of Ned’s last stand where, dressed in his home made armour, he was shot 28 times and caught. 

He didn’t live here, he didn’t appear in court here, but Glenrowan takes first prize for milking his name.  There’s the huge statue as you enter the town, the pub sells Kelly Gang Beer and there’s a ‘scary’ reenactment of the capture using moving dummies which according to the board outside is not for the fainthearted.  Lonely Planet says that it’s a bucket of shite and yet it costs $30!!  We stopped briefly to take some pictures and then we moved on.

Wodonga is not a place to spend Easter with your kids, at least we didn’t think so as there wasn’t much to see and do there.  On arrival the guy in reception told us to watch out for the 120 kids on site.  We thought he was exaggerating but quickly realized he wasn’t kidding (!!) as the campsite was completely full. 

We were there to visit Bonegilla Migrant Reception and Training Centre.  This is where refugees and migrants from Europe after WW2 were housed on arrival starting in 1947.  Italians, Greeks, Germans and any nation where people were displaced by the events of the war.  They lived here for a while learning English and waiting to be placed in work which could have been anywhere in Australia.  We were met at reception by one of the volunteer ladies who came here from Switzerland as a small child before being shipped to Perth where her parents were given jobs.  It’s also where Neil might have come when he was about 7 as his parents were considering becoming ‘£10 POMs’. 

Our next stop was Beechworth where we had a campsite pitch to die for.  Plus, and now you must excuse the pun, we had just settled down for lunch when a large group arrived and explained that they were here to have a short service and then scatter the ashes of Fred across the lake.  It was a jovial event and quite touching as his widow came across to apologise………’for what’ we said ‘we have been quite moved by the whole event’.  Take a look at the pictures and see just how lucky we were to get the best pitch on the site. 

Beechworth does have a legitimate claim to fame with good old Ned.  He lived not too far away, he spent many a happy hour in the local pubs, in the court and goal here as did his mother.  She did 3 years hard labour for whacking a drunken policeman over the head with a shovel who was ‘messing’ with her daughter.  Ned also served 3 years hard labour in the goal from the age of 15 for a crime he didn’t commit. 

Whilst we think he probably would always have gone the wrong side of the law, many things happened to him and his family which probably made sure that he would live a life of crime.  As with many of the bush rangers their treatment by the police was not good and probably put many over the edge.  It was also here that he was sentenced to hang and was duly taken to Melbourne where the execution took place. 

We took 2 walking tours with our guide, Rod, dressed in 1850’s gear along with boots, bowler hat and waistcoat.  We toured all the perfectly preserved buildings in town and learnt so much more about the history of Beechworth and Ned Kelly’s tragic story.  Whilst Glenrowan glorified the story, Beechworth seemed to tell the us the history in a tasteful and respectful way.

Ned’s mum eloped after getting pregnant by John Kelly who had been transported for theft in 1841.  From there it was down hill all the way.  Life was very harsh in those days living in a wooden hut which would have been stifling in summer and freezing in winter.  She had 12 children, mixed with all the wrong people and getting pregnant by several bush rangers.  She did various stints in goal for varying crimes many of which were fabricated by the police.  Ned never had a chance and after the first stint in an adult goal at the age of 15 for a crime he didn’t commit he really was only going to become a ‘bad boy’.

The courtroom where both Ned and his mum were sentenced is original including the dock and the bench where the judge, Sir Redmond Berry (aka ‘the hanging judge’) sentenced him to death.  Mum died at the age of 91 in 1923.  It is a fascinating family story that is probably mirrored so many times across Australia.  Ned just made them famous because of his armour and the scale of his crimes. 

As a nation most of us have grown up with John Wayne movies depicting the wild west as a lawless place.  Can you imagine how lawless Oz must have been when most of its original population were criminals transported here in the late 1700’s for mostly petty crimes such as simply stealing a loaf of bread?  Then with the discovery of gold in the mid 1850’s it’s no surprise that this place was probably as bad, if not worse, than Big John’s wild west.  Think about it, it’s not that long ago is it, 150 years?

We’ve been on the road now for around 6 weeks and everywhere we’ve been Neil has been looking for wildlife.  We’ve seen lots of roos, our first possum and emus but cuddly Koalas have remained very elusive.  We even had a late afternoon 3 hour walk through a koala sanctuary and came up with nothing but roos.  Finally, he did it, on the 2hr walk from Lake Sambell to Lake Kerford he found one just chilling out about 10-15m up a gum tree.  He managed to get some good pictures despite not being able to get the bottom of the tree due to the bush.  He’s very pleased with himself now even though we’ve still not seen a wombat or an echidna.  These are nocturnal and shy so we’re unlikely to see one of them.

We moved on to Mount Beauty which is in the Alpine National Park.  The scenery is stunning and the walking tracks are some of the best we have come across.  In addition, the daytime temperatures were in the high 20’s and at night time down to as low as 2 or 3C.  No problem, we had a huge fire pit to keep us warm whilst we tucked into our food and at night we have a thick doona from Phil at the motorhome hire centre. 

We had a couple of evenings where we had one of those fantastic communal camp BBQ experiences.  A huge group of Asian families on a short trip from Melbourne arrived en masse to cook.  They originated  from Malaysia, Indonesia and Korea just to name a few countries.  They were an extremely friendly bunch and while cooking massive amounts of food on the BBQ told us their various stories. Most S E Asian countries won’t accept dual nationality, so they have to choose to keep their original citizenship or take up full Australian status.  Those children that are born here must choose when they are 18.  Most met at University here and through the network of Oriental groups that exist in Melbourne. 

On the first night they gave us food to sample and it was delicious.  On the second night Henry, a pharmacist from Indonesia, and his wife Juliana announced that they were all leaving in the morning and so would we like the left-over beef in Korean spices, lamb sausages and an enormous box of salad?  Yes please! 

The group had 2 sets of twins and we had some banter with the kids.  One 6 year old boy joked about the large gap in his front teeth and Neil met him in the shower block later that evening where he was cleaning his teeth.  Suddenly, the other identical twin just came up to Neil, gave him a big hug, and shouted ‘bye’ before he headed off to bed.  Great people and another lovely social evening in the campsite.

Three wheels on my wagon…….

Next stop Narrandera for a night to visit a Koala regeneration reserve.  It was all going well until just 8kms from town when the van started to shudder, there was a bang and we ground to a halt.  The rear offside wheel was down to the metal.  Ooops! 

We managed to trundle on a bit to get the van off the highway and called RACV.  Rodney couldn’t fix it and put the spare on.  The whole process was very efficient and we were on our way in less than an hour.  If you look at the picture you will see the state it was in which was politely termed as ‘totalled’ by the tyre repair centre in Narrandera where we got a replacement….Neil had another word for it!

Excitement over for the day we arrived at yet another good campsite by the side of Lake Talbot and set off for a long walk to the Koala reserve in search of the critters.  Unfortunately for us they were being shy unlike the kangaroos that seemed very interested in us, to a point, and so 3 hours later we gave up the koala hunt and returned to the campsite for another BBQ and a great sunset.

Moving on again next morning we headed for Echuca which has a great history as it was once Australia’s largest inland port transporting timber and other goods down the Murray River to the sea ports.  It’s all been ‘prettified’ but it did give you a good insight into what it might have been like 150 years ago when the original wharf was almost 800m long.  Old paddle steamers ply the river giving very expensive rides up and down which were pleasant to watch from the bank.

It was here that we just about finished our crazy shopping spree………yes, shopping and that includes Neil who announced that ‘today was such a cracking successful shopping day’.  Yes, it’s strange for Neil to enjoy shopping but we’ve been buying shorts, T-shirts and polo shirts in the Autumn sales.  How about a T-shirt made of cotton for £1.50, a polo shirt made of cotton for £3 and linen mix shorts for £5? We’ve never experienced such prices even in India and the quality seems to be pretty good. 

The reason that Neil was really excited was that since we decided to get married Cheryl has been looking for clothes to get married in.  It was beginning to look very difficult and Cheryl was getting a little downhearted until she found 2 items on the same day on the same street…….ace…..job done!

Next day we moved on to Bendigo to exchange vans.  Almost as we arrived in Oz we decided to extend our rental for a week but we couldn’t keep the original van as it was already booked out but Phil the rental man was happy to give us an upgrade to a proper motorhome instead.  

The upgrade was even better than we thought as Phil asked us to return to him a week early so he could get the campervan ready for its second rental.  Our new home feels huge in comparison to the campervan as it has a fixed bed, much larger shower and toilet and a proper dining area.  The engine is a Fiat which has taken a bit of getting used to as it drives very differently from the Mercedes Sprinter which was the base for the campervan.  It’s definitely a huge step up from the campervan and is more like the space we have in our caravan back home in England.  Did we mention that ‘Lucky’ is Neil’s middle name?

We were happy to head back to Bendigo over Easter as they have a massive fair all weekend including processions.  There is a very large Chinese community here which goes back to when Bendigo was a gold mining town so a lot of the things we saw came from the Chinese influence on the town.   All the campsites in town were booked up months ago so Phil invited us to stay on the forecourt for free, gave us a BBQ to use and access to the toilet and shower………..fantastic, it worked well and it saved us at least $80. 

Bendigo is a large and affluent town with many heritage buildings as well as parks and green spaces.  It’s wealth all comes from the Goldrush days and its still a buzzing place today with many stylish boutiques, bars, cafes and restaurants.  The town was packed for Easter and there were a number of events all over town including ‘waking the dragon’ ceremonies as well as the torchlight procession which we went along to. 

In one of his chats with Phil, Neil was given a hint that there would be a lot of firemen in the procession.  That sounds promising thought Cheryl.  We took a taxi into town and quickly found a good spot to view near to where the parade would start. After twenty minutes of watching small groups of variously shaped (i.e. not young and hunky looking as Cheryl had anticipated!) local fire volunteers from what seemed to be every outlying town waving very small flaming torches and riding in their trucks we were thinking it was so lame that it was actually giving us the giggles. 

There were a couple of marching bands of bagpipes and drums, and some other local community groups which did break the monotony.  Finally we started to see some proper floats with music and costumes and dancing – hurrah!  And then it got better when the Chinese dragons arrived and they were just so spectacular.

Be careful what you wish for

After the weekend with Chris & Viv we thought that the decision to leave the coast a day early was a great idea.  Miss out on 40C and go to the mountains for some walking in temperatures of around 30C and less.  That’s what we got on our arrival 30C, the next day we took the walk from Govetts Leap to Pulpit Rock at 25C and the following day our friend Ian visited and we had a lovely day, with picnic, walking the cliff path near Katoomba at 23C.  That’s where it all went tits up – 3 days of solid full on rain, mist and temperatures of 15C at best…….oh bugger!

OK, so the weather did turn rather foul but before the rain came in we did manage the 3hr hard walk from Govetts Leap to Pulpit Rock.  It was a hot day, around 30C, but it was superb and we hardly saw anybody.  We had our picnic lunch on the rock with no one around catching what bit of shade there was behind a trig point rock.  What a view for a picnic – probably one of our best ever.  The following day our friend Ian who was visiting friends in Sydney caught the train up to us and we had another lovely walk and picnic along the cliff path. 

It was next day that it all went south but the silver lining was that it made us take time to write the blog, sort out the photos, finish booking the hotels for our honeymoon, catch up on emails and generally do all the things we’ve been putting off.  There were a couple of periods when the rain was forecast to ease, and it did, so we grabbed a couple of 1-2hr walks to ensure we didn’t go completely stir crazy.  On our last day the sun came out and we took the walk down to the bottom of the range, around 500m, walked along Federal Pass for 1hr or so before taking the 900 steps back up near The 3 Sisters.  We reckon around 600 calories burned over the 3.5hr walk meaning extra beers and Gin for us tonight!  An hour after we got back the thunderstorms set in once again so all in all we got lucky.  Lucky is Neil’s middle name.

Sunday morning we set off for Cowra.  We passed via a town called Bathurst which brought back a few memories for Neil from when he worked at MMT Energy.  He never got to travel here as the project was before his time but there was often lots of banter in the office about the town, the project and the crazy things that some of the guys got up to where they were here. 

The town had a WW2 POW camp and in August 1944, 1104 Japanese prisoners staged a break out armed with whatever weapons they could utilize such as baseball bats, homemade clubs and sharpened kitchen knives. It took nine days to round them up during which four Australian soldiers and 231 Japanese died.  The camp also housed over a thousand Italians but they were not regarded as a threat and many worked on local farms.  After the war ended the Japanese were touched by the way in which the Australians had looked after the graves of the war dead and suggested an official Japanese War Cemetery.  The theme of reconciliation continued with the establishment of a Japanese Garden and finally the Australian World Peace Bell in the town. 

The camp site was at the river’s edge and had a large contingent of day time Cockatoos.  Very noisy but very entertaining to watch when they all decided it was time to take off. We found ourselves sharing the BBQ area with a large group having a family reunion and they were keen to chat.  Two brothers told tales of their mum and dad arriving as £10 POMs and taking up the offer of work with accommodation provided only to find it was in the middle of nowhere with no running water. 

We are really enjoying the social side of the campsites and the BBQ is the natural hub to chat while dinner is sizzling.   On the second night the conversation was all about the baffling nature of Australian politics – and no we didn’t understand much of what we were told.

Wine Glorious Wine

Having given our livers a bit of a hammering with Chris and Viv we set off for a 7hr journey south for an overnight stop at Urunga.  It was a very quiet site with lots of colourful parrots and an owner with a passion for taking beaten up old Ford Capris and turning them into 1000BHP monsters!

Next day we climbed up the hills to Dorrigo via The Waterfall Way where we took a 3hr stroll through a rainforest.  It was beautiful with waterfalls you can walk behind and it was so cool in the shade of the forest canopy.  It was quiet and great for listening to the birds, watching a Goanna go about its day and enjoying a lovey picnic fighting off the hungry forest turkeys.  Afterwards we had a short drive to Armidale for an overnight stop and a little bit of clothes shopping.

Next morning we set off for Murrurundi for 2 nights on a campsite run by a lovely couple that kept the site spotless and with a camp kitchen containing all sorts of memorabilia and a fridge with 2 large wine boxes labelled ‘have a drink on us’. 

We came here to walk to The Eye of The Needle in the hills and to explore the town.  It was also a stop off to visit The Burning Mountain which is a coal seam, 30m underground, that has been burning for thousands of years at the rate of about a meter a year.  As you climb the hill you can see various signs pointing out the different state of the ground as the vegetation is killed by the heat and then as the burning moves on it is replaced by different plants until the Gum Trees reestablish themselves as the dominant force.  It was also our first sighting of Grey Kangaroos that seemed extremely comfortable with our presence.    

Next stop was Mudgee which is a very popular haunt for wine lovers.  There are lots of wineries and we decided to take a one-day tour for $95 (just over £50) which included tastings at multiple wineries, lunch and a Gin distillery.  We were the first pick up so sat at the front behind our gregarious driver Jim.  As more and more people got on, about 17 in total, we quickly realized we were in for a fun day. 

Our first tasting started at 9.45am and once back on the bus we took a selfie of us all.  After that we took a bus selfie after each stop and you can see from the pictures that as we moved through the day the party got more and more boisterous. 

In the process of having a very boozy day we made an impulse buy of a box of 6 Kama Sutra Wines just before we had lunch which was an enormous cheese platter and antipasto platter.  We almost finished the antipasto but decided to take the cheese home with us. We were in bed very early that night and slept soundly until about 7am.

Next stop was The Hunter Valley which is also very popular with wine lovers.  We booked another day tour and hoped for another fun day out.  It was a contrast to Mudgee as the group we were with turned out to be much quieter types.  We also found the hosts at each tasting were keen to enhance our appreciation of their wines and took time to explain how their winemakers made a difference.  We felt we learned a lot on the day, and we returned to the campsite without the need to crash into bed.  A final relaxed day at Cessnock allowed us to prepare for another weekend with Chris and Viv.

We booked a 2-bedroom water view cabin at Lake Macquarie just North of Sydney.  It’s a vast lake and the campsite was situated at the water’s edge.  The cabin was fine but the water view was a bit of a disappointment as you could see the lake but only if you stood sideways on the deck!  The deck itself also didn’t have much shade and the weather was so hot we had to stay indoors until the sun went down.

We set off for a walk along the lakeshore path only to find it ran out after about ten minutes walking so we turned round to try the path on the left of the site.  Oh dear, another dud which soon ground to a halt.  Things weren’t going well so we decided to start the BBQ and make a start on the Kama Sutra wine we bought in Mudgee.   Neil got creative with pork, prunes and peas and we got chatting to a group of Samoan lads who were cooking enough chicken to cover the entire BBQ.

Next morning we set off for some sightseeing and following the local tourist guide leaflet tried to find St Catherine’s Bay, a historical mining site.  We failed.  Next stop Caves Bay for a walk along the coast.  This started well with some fine views, but the path soon deteriorated and we made a few guesses as to where to go as there were no sign posts.  It was a good walk but after an hour we were getting hot and headed back to the car.  The nearest major town was Swansea so we set off to see the small opening where the lake meets the Pacific Ocean.  The town was unexciting, so we returned to the campsite for a relatively quiet and restrained night.  We spotted our first possums on the roof of the cabin next door and managed to get a good photo.

Saturday was predicted to be even hotter so we looked for a walk in the tourist guide which might offer some shade.  A long walk along the esplanade at Warners Bay with plenty of photographic opportunities looked good and we decided to start at the end with the Art Gallery.  It began in full sun but it was early and not too hot.  The path curved around the bay but no mention in the tourist guide that we would soon be walking along the edge of the highway as it crossed over a large bridge.  After 25 minutes walking with the traffic blasting alongside we gave up and went back to the Gallery Café for a drink.  A closer look at Google Maps showed the walk continued along the side of the B53 pretty much all the way into Warners Bay! 

Cheryl remembered the guide had another walk at Wangi Wangi which we went past on the way so we drove to the town in search of the start point.  No signs at all so with the help of Google again we finally tracked it down to the end of the promontory and found the car park and large signboard showing a circular walk in the trees, hurrah! This started well with a peaceful track and lake views.  Inevitably, the promised ‘well signposted’ track soon disappeared so with a few detours and backtracks when the trail disappeared we finally made it all the way around.

The evening was spent in the usual fashion, finishing off Viv’s lovely Massaman Curry followed by blue cheese & crackers and a few bottles of wine – far too many!

Apart from having a great time with Chris and Viv Lake Macquarie had turned into something of a dud and it wasn’t helped by the weather forecast.  C&V were due to drive back to Sydney on Sunday and we had originally decided to stay on until Monday.  However, the weather forecast for Sunday was for around 40C which would have been horrific.  So, we too packed our bags early and left for the cooler climate of the Blue Mountains.  

Watch out Queensland – here we come!

The next stage of the trip started in Bendigo in Victoria where we were introduced to our home for the next six weeks.  Regular readers will remember our last trip to Oz in 2016 when we hired the beast that was Cazza & BygBlu that made our own 4×4 and caravan look like Dinky toys.  This time we have a modest campervan which we hope will be a lot easier to cope with.   

It didn’t take long to be talked through how the van worked and we headed off to Swan Hill with the intention of continuing west before heading north east to eventually meet up with friends Chris & Viv in Caloundra just North of Brisbane in Queensland.  The campsite in Swan Hill was beside the mighty Murray River and each evening we were treated to an awesome sight as hundreds of white cockatoos came in before dusk to roost in the gum trees.  It was incredibly noisy but wonderful to watch as the many flocks jostled for positions amongst the trees and randomly all took off to swirl around before landing again in a bird version of what looked like musical branches.  We’ve since discovered that many Australians consider them to be noisy pests but for us it was a splendid spectacle.

We had the first of many changes of plan and decided that heading West was a bad idea as it was too hot and this was better left towards the end of our trip.  We headed North East and decided to stop off at Griffith, which is home to many Italians.  Unfortunately, the camp site we booked was grim and our drive through he town didn’t inspire us to linger so it became an overnight stop.  The camp BBQ area was disgusting so we tried to use the pull-out BBQ on the van.  That couldn’t connect to the gas supply so we settled on a cheese & cracker dinner with plenty of red wine. 

Things went from bad to worse when Cheryl started to get bitten by mozzies and decided to close the door on the van forgetting the table was attached to it. Ooops!  The table collapsed and the supporting leg fell off.   Next morning the man in the office provided tools so that Neil could screw the thing back on.

Cheryl’s son Alex has recently sold his business to Forbes and is now their European Editor so when we saw there was a town named Forbes in Australia it was the obvious choice for the next stop.  It’s also a town with historical buildings and had a local bad boy, Ben Hall.  He was a bush ranger which means he robbed banks and people during the gold rush but he never shot anyone. He was eventually shot down by the police and ended up as a folk hero. 

We explored the town heritage trail and headed back for a BBQ dinner and ate outside the van.  On this site we had a concrete slab beside the van to put out the table and chairs.  The fixed table was at a slight angle as the slab was higher than the ground.  Not a problem we thought until nearly at the end of the meal when the whole thing collapsed with a crash, sending everything flying including the excellent bottle of red we had just opened.  Fortunately for us the worst damage was the wine splattered up the side of the van from our glasses as luckily the top was on the bottle and we found it intact under the van, hurrah!  The leg had once again come off and we both agreed not to use that bl**dy thing again!! 

Campsites that allow pets insist they are kept on a lead.  The day we left Forbes Neil was getting the camper ready to go when he was ‘adopted’ by a white dog that appeared from nowhere.  It followed him everywhere and when Cheryl walked to open the gate for us to leave he followed her too.  Then when we left and drove along the road he ran after us until we lost him.  We called him White Dog as he reminded us of Red Dog from the North West of Australia made famous in a film…..watch it, it’s very entertaining.

Next stop was Gunnedah but again a bad choice of campsite.  It was still hot so asking for a shady pitch and wifi seemed too much for the grumpy bloke on reception.  We settled on the pitch in full sun closest to reception as that was as far as the wifi would stretch.  We then found the wifi was useless so moved ourselves to some shade which he said didn’t exist.  We then found there was a charge to use the BBQ – OK it was only 20 cents but there was a principle here.  We were getting a bit fed up.  Last trip the campsites were great but this time we were struggling to find good ones and particularly ones with decent wifi as we still had some planning to do.

Next stop was Armidale, the highest city in Australia at 980m.  It was a lot cooler but unfortunately it was also raining.  The campsite had wifi – hurrah, but it was useless – bo**ocks!!  On the way to our next stop, Glen Innis, we stopped off to visit the grave of another local bush ranger, Captain Thunderbolt. He too supposedly didn’t kill anyone but he came to a similar end to Ben Hall…..full of lead!   We finally found a lovely campsite at Glen Innes and the manager did point out that local wifi was working but can be unreliable so we finally decided to buy data on a local sim card. 

Glen Innes has a Scottish heritage and hosts an annual Celtic Games in May with bagpipes and haggis.  In 1992 the town built a circle of standing stones which is an impressive site and was to celebrate their Celtic heritage. Glen Innes is also known as ‘The land of the Beardies’ and we went to the excellent museum which housed an eclectic mix of old artefacts from the early settler days up until the late Twentieth Century.

A few days later we arrived in Caloundra.  We had booked a 2 bedroom waterfront cabin to share with Chris & Viv.  Neil worked with Chris is the UK back in the 70’s before he emigrated with Viv in 1986.  We had made an excellent choice – a new cabin which was well kitted out and we had a deck with a fabulous view across to Bribie Island and the sea beyond. 

We spent the weekend catching up over wine and great food and walks along the coast paths.  We also took a drive out to see the Glass House Mountains with a quick stop on the way to sample some beer at a local brewery.  We ordered a paddle to try a few and most of it was OK but beer with chilli, mmm, not so sure on that one.  After a great weekend we set off on a 6hr drive south whilst Chris and Viv flew back to Sydney.

Family Values

Our experiences with Air India in the past haven’t been good so we were a little unsure about flying Business with them to Melbourne.  They were the only direct flight, and all the other options would have been a little painful so if all we got was a flat bed on the 12hr flight then so be it.   However, it was all good.  The lounge in New Delhi was very good, they did get us there in one piece, on time and with very good comfort, food, drink and service.  So, we would fly Business with them again although probably not on a popular route like London. 

We remembered to pick up some duty free as we passed through the terminal and did the self-serve visa and passport checks without a hitch.  Our 12Kg cases were amongst the first to arrive and then it all ground to a halt as everyone leaving the terminal had to go through just two painfully slow queues to hand in the ‘anything to declare’ form before being allowed to get out.   The ineptness made it all feel like India again.

However, it was soon apparent that we were in a ‘civilised’ country as no one pushed or jumped any queues, there were no strange odours, spit stains or litter and everyone was smiley and helpful. However, civilization does come at a price and we’re still amazed by how expensive everything seems to be.  It’s really on a par with London prices but when you’ve spent three months having dinner for two with drinks and still having change from a tenner it takes a bit of getting used to.

As the flight arrived at 7am we used the airport bus into the city, then a train to the suburbs where we were met by Callum and Dan, Neil’s great nephews, who drove us to the family home.  We were staying with the Bradburys for the first few days.  They have an enormous house in Narre Warren on the edge of Melbourne.  Four ensuite bedrooms (thanks Cal for giving us yours), a study, a movie room, a snooker room, upstairs lounge area, enormous kitchen/diner/living room, a huge outside deck area with hot tub, 2 dining tables, lounge area and a garden.  Then, of course, there’s Oscar the family dog that we remember from last time and he has a new playmate, Eddy, a very excitable but lovable 12 month old cross between we don’t really know or care – he’s fun!

We enjoyed our time with the family so much when we first came to Australia in 2016 and spending time with Lisa, Simon, Cal, Dan & Jack was a major reason for us returning.  This time Neil was able to watch Dan play in a golf match and Cheryl watched Jack play in a football match before watching some trash TV with Lisa – Neil went to bed!  Staying with the family also gave us a chance to get familiar with being back in Australia.  First up, everything gets a shortened name.  Stay with the rellies, have a glass of chard or sav, visit ‘vinnies op shop’ (charity shop St Vincent de Paul’s) or salvos (Salvation army) in the arvo.  Next, everything is out to kill you so watch out for the spiders, snakes, ants, mozzies and even roos throwing themselves at your car at night.  More on Aussie rules later in the blog.

After a few days it was time to move on and stay with Cheryl’s cousin Roy and his partner Heather.  They met us at the station in Ballarat and spent the next few days treating us to gourmet treats and more gin, wine & beer than was good for us.  Neil cooked one night and made a large rice pudding which Heather enjoyed so much she devoured it all meaning there was none left to go in the freezer for Roy! 

Their house was the former police station in the small town of Learmonth and they are carrying out a renovation of one of the small buildings which was once the police office.  It will be a self-contained annex and was originally planned to be completed for our arrival.  It’s still a way off being completed but we will return at the end of our visit in mid April and Heather has told us we will be its first occupants.  We weren’t so sure it will be finished but Heather accepted our $2 bet so let’s see who wins the money.

After a few days of fantastic hospitality Roy and Heather drove us to Bendigo to pick up our campervan, our home for the next eight weeks.