Life here on Koh Chang (Elephant Island) is probably what it was on most Thai islands when tourism was in its infancy. The island has no cars, a few motor bikes and two narrow concrete roads that go north south and east west. The rest of the island is just dirt trails through the cashew and rubber plantations. There is no hassle in the two mini markets or in the ‘heaving metropolis’ in the centre of the island where there are two further shops (one stocking designer ‘Prado’ flipflops!). Yes, that’s 4 shops in total on the island. Definitely no hard sell here. It is such a different place and it does take a little getting used to but the longer we’re here the more it’s getting under our skin. This is the slow pace that people often dream about but here it’s for real.

The journey here aboard the 24 seat VIP was relatively painless except that it wasn’t very comfortable nor did we get much sleep. Arriving bleary eyed in Ranong at 5 a.m. was fascinating as the town was still asleep and within 30 minutes it began to surface. Shutters opened, people began to set up tables with offerings and shortly after 6.00 a.m. the monks arrived to collect alms from the shop keepers….it was just a superb feeling watching a scruffy border town, not a tourist town, come to life.

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Once on the longtail boat, we had a relaxing trip to the island. It operates like a bus, stopping at each resort allowing tourists to get off and locals to deliver important supplies of food, ice and drinks directly onto the beach. The ferry runs 3 times a day in the dry season and pretty much stops in the rainy season.

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Our resort contains a UK resident, David, who arrived 10 years ago and now only goes home to renew his visa. He’s 70, knows all the gossip (for such a small island there’s lots of gossip) and even stays through the rainy season which is when most things close, most people leave the island except for a few hardened long stay Europeans and resident rubber and cashew farmers.

We’ve met some other really interesting people, Gabby from Canada and Olivia from Ireland. They met a few days ago and are travelling together via the island to Bangkok. Gabby is teaching English in Korea and Olivia is on her way home after a 12 month round the world trip. Gabby has gained our upmost respect when after a heavy night out, she had the presence of mind to throw up in her hand bag rather than the floor of a taxi…..much to the distress of her now knackered camera…hey, better than paying the clean up fine?

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Hot news. Someone has had their clothes laundered and everyone is playing detective to find the owner of a pair of adult Superman Y-fronts seen hanging on the line. At the time of going to print no one is admitting liability.

Our cabin is right on the front of the resort, about 20 metres from the sea. Whilst the location is definitely 5* the cabin can only be described as having rustic charm. Wooden bungalow with easy access private bathroom, (that means no door!!). There’s a hammock on the deck that we fight over and a bed with mozzie net to make up for the gaps in the panels. It’s the ultimate in simple living. But it is home and it is quite fabulous to fall asleep at night listening to the waves…….zzzzzzzzz. Oh, and don’t forget that it costs just over £7/night!

The food here is fine and pretty cheap, and there is a large German influence here so the breakfast comes with some of the best homemade bread we’ve had since leaving the UK. There is also great fresh brewed coffee and an honesty system which means you just help yourself to beers etc and just fill in your book…….so, so civilised and trusting in 2009.

Whilst we type this in the bar the sister of the owner of the “resort” is doing some washing. She keeps singing, beautifully, and it keeps reminding us of the lady collecting water in the cartoon version of The Jungle Book…..we’re sure some of you will remember her voice. Again, as we type, the resident bar Gecko makes his “Geck-ko” call to the amusement of all here.

In summary, this is probably the nearest we’ll get to a rustic, unspoilt paradise. Life is the slowest we’ve seen on any beach we’ve been on. We thought Goa was laid back but that was “upright” compared to this place. There’s a good chance we’ll be back.

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